iplen

$17.95? Expecting people to be crawling over it in 2 days is probably a bit keen, give it a chance

on the top left (From the front) there will be a square plug, with a phillips screw fitting in it, car on ramps, heater flat out, open that and start pouring water in keep going until A) the heater is HOT and B) water comes out of the bleed valve. From personal experience (over $6k spent on a NON turbo motor in an 89 liberty) Subarus are very sensetive to air locks, and overheating, would not be surprised if the first time has done a headgasket and that will be the end of it I am afraid. Subaru is the Crazy Japanese Cousin of the Euro car brands. If it has done a headgasket.... I have a motor for sale....

That was the bit that I liked too!

Sorry I was unaware that my misinformed, jealous and/or ignorant post was so upsetting to you. Looking back at it, I did only state 3 times in a positive manner and a massive once in a semi negative one. All I actually said was that in my opinion, I prefered that particular build, I said that because personally, I do, I also prefer Jennifer Hawkins over Angelina Jolie, doesn't mean she isn't smoking hot. So an attempt to avoid the page 4 wobble on this thread lets all agree to disagree, I will back away slowly, and give you a chance to see that here at SAU we accept other peoples opinions as just that.

Model code should finish with AA, also check for the poprivets that hold the build plate on make sure try are still the tamper proof ones, there are plenty easier ways to get Brembos than to change discs, calipers, and probably master cylinders on a car that relies on those brakes to set it apart from every other GTR....

Can you post up the model code off the build plate and the vin? Will answer all the questions,

Any news from today?

Maximum respect for the commitment, and for going through with it. There are plenty of people talk about a build like this, but never do it, personally i prefer Godzilla32s ( http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...on-t140022.html ) because it is work not just a check book, by some one who is clearly an enthusiast. Not taking anything away from the Supra effort though, because I could never do it, I enjoy driving my car too much!

So just to clarify, a standard RB26 makes 206hp, the Nismo RB26 makes 600hp, Cause I would hate to be a know it all and think that every R32 GTR made 206kw

Thank God you clarified that, MWracing has been in suspense since October 2007

please refer to here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/At...id-t327378.html

Why so many different colors? eg bumper and bootlid, is it just the light?

Not that I would ever have doubted the Baron, but turns out mine has those too!!! Statement withdrawn, they look perfectly normal

very unlikely, mainly due to where the main hoop would sit, a lot further back in a 2 door than 4 door... measure how far ahead of the rear wheel centreline the main hoop is on the 4 door then measure the same on yours, will be inside the door opening I am guessing

Every standard color was available in V-spec II, the pop rivets holding the build plate on look mighty strange too...

Forgot the photo after all that!!! No worries, spent a long time looking for mine, don't bother looking at the speedo for kilometres, *pedal pads getting worn and leather around the handbrake/gearstick cracking happen around 100k *as far as turbos go refer to my reply in your other thread, Timing belt would be the thing I would worry about more.

Things to check: *Model Code, must end in AA to be a V-spec I or II (link from "Babyskyline" http://www.users.on.net/~goofyhsk/info/chassis_plate.html ) *Build date must 1993 for V-spec I, 1994 for V-spec II *Should have a finned rear diff housing (easy and common to change though apparently) *Brembos (again easy to add) *Rust around boot, inside wheel wells. *Amount of black paint on the plenum, (Refer photo, the less black paint the more it has been flogged) *Trim around the rear side windows, if it does not fit, it has had body work * if this is all good then I will look forward to seeing your V-SpecII next to mine at the R32 21st anniversary cruise!

My ADR came back monday after the R34 cruise, so went for a look in my wifes black Corolla with a BIG pink lady silohette (Mack truck style) pink "Nuthin' 2 Serious" (name of her band) and pink Number plates... We all started with something (Camira in my case) and many of us still drive S#1tters every day so we can have our turbo Skyline.. So come for a look and get an NA for now, will be plenty quick enough for the road and not out of place at a track day either.

Mine had stock turbos when I bought it, and ran upto 20psi for a year (very sure they were not stock..) the front one blew, so pulled them out and stuck some N1s in there, also know of an R32 that has done Targa Tas about 9-10 times now running ceramic turbos, and has not had 1 turbo failure. My suggestion would be if you like working on cars, and are happy to have it off the road a bit, (and spend some money) then push the limit a bit, try to do the work first though (be it Turbos, or even an R33 motor etc). If you are not wanting to do this sort of work, do not run over 10-12psi, and keep plenty of oil in it (1/2-3/4 litre over full) and you will have a reliable (if thirsty) and very fun road car. After 1 year my car still feels special every time I drive it, and I love it.

If you are used to BMWs this may seem rare, but it is a standard feature on many japanese cars, because they are not wired by europeans...... I have a Nismo Fibreglass intercooler air guide (Which Just Jap photographed to see how it all fitted etc) Genuine N1 front vents and side skirts, Coilpack cover has "powered by Nismo 24 Valve" or similar written on it. Not a rare part but certainly creates some speculation... Roof has been repaired in 2 spots about 15x10cm directly above the doors exactly the same spot on both sides, also appears to be the same place as where the light bar sat on the pace car used in Aus (and cop cars in Japan..) also has had bonnet pins, and 2 harnesses, but stock suspension and still original ECU and no other repair work

Well seeing as we are here: an aquantence of mine with a gtst (told everyone how I paid too much becaues I paid twice what he did and my cars older...) about 2 months after purchasing his cheap skyline stops driving it. Ask him about it one day he tells me "it has 50 psi compression in the front left cyliner and 60 in the front right.."

I had a C34 for about 3-4 years, and absolutely loved it! Having said that, i would not buy another one, because the M35 ARX 4 is heaps more car for not much more money, so when I ge the missus drunk enough to sign the loan application (very hard given we pretty much don't drink...) my heart will be telling me to buy an M35, despite my head knowing i need to be able to tow/collect wood/camp etc....

Congrats on the purchase, I have had my 32 for just over 12 months, and it still gives me a tingle (and a little mongrel) every time I drive it, and I will say it........................... pics or

-7s on and being driven, comes on slower but about the same revs, then gets better and better! Car actually handles better, less taily because of the more gradual delivery. Most importantly 2psi less and HEAPS faster!!!

-7 are on and running, only had 2 little blasts at 14psi, feels very similar to standard, not much noticeable lag so far, no extra noticeable power so far, will get a better idea soon