iplen

You are one of the people on here I would have listened to Marc, but varying mix based on speed makes no sense at all for a few reasons... My car has Hicas disabled so could not have effected Hicas,

Well worst that could happen is that the car didn't work, and I could solder the wire back together, so I cut it.. For anyone needing/wanting to remove the speed limiter for motorsport use, simply cut the yellow wire, (#53, go down the left hand set of pins from the bolt hole, there are 2 sections, the third from the top of the bottom section is 53, or just search google for the pin outs) and the speed limiter will be disabled, I have had no adverse effects (I have no Hicas already) but do it at your own risk.

Hey mate, pretty keen to hear from you re the PFC, 0438547375 consider it sold when you get in touch

e-mail sent about PFC, if e-mail is not recieved I will take it, PM does not seem possible due to update....

Bingo, was not that originally, but is now, am in the process of putting a new radiator and thermostat in it... in time for racing it tomorrow and Sunday...

Need this done by Saturday for minimal if not $0, I have an ECU there that will remove it which I have been trying to get into a dyno snd tuned, but with finding out yesterday I had a blocked radiator and possibly stuffed thermostat, any ECU options are out the window, hence cutting wires... Would love to hear from someone who has done this...

I have searched, and found plenty of posts saying to cut the Yellow wire #53... But have not found one saying anyone has actually done it and it has worked, with no side effects, it is an R32 GTR, so no Auto, and Hicas has been removed, so no problems there. I am competing on Saturday at Mount Panorama, so if I cut the yellow wire, will it remove the limiter and ensure everything else operates as per usual, thanks!

Had another suggestion of a funnel, letting it get temp up and then leaving it overnight, with the front up, it took a fairly healthy drink from the funnel and since then I have not had much of a chance to test it out, but it seems to be ok.... Will find out at the mount this weekend...

Heater has been both on and off, and the heater is super hot (another problem to fix, it is too hot and does not cool)

Definately under the bonnet, from around the passengers side of the head moreso than anywhere else

I have spent plenty of time around cars (Inc overheating ones) to know a bit about it, but.. After a little run I pull up and my r32 is bubbling and so on when you open the bonnet, there is no oil in the water vice versa, never looses coolant, never runs hot (sits a bit over half all the time) I have put a funnel in the radiator and let it run, loosened the bleed bolt, even when all I had done was check the color of the water on first inspection it has done this all the time I have had it... Which is about 18 months, do other peoples do this, I am worried about it doing a head, especially as my first event in it is next weekend, but I cannot find a thing wrong with it

The exact value is what someone will pay you for it, could be $500, could be $10000... Valueing a car is not a mathematical equation, take it to your local car dealership and see what they say..

Was so close to asking about this because mine is all over the place

Thanks, but the one I have is not covered there... I am imagining that adjusting it may well be pretty similar, and I will suck it and see if it comes down to it, but would prefer to know what i am doing...this is the unit,

As per the title, my car has a HKS EVC II in it, I have tried downloading the instructions from hksusa.com but it is not happening, done a search on here with no luck, so A) Does anyone still remember how to adjust this unit? B) can you tell me how? Thanks in advance!!

It will cost less than your English lessons... Every car breaks down, the problem you will have is that you will not be able to sell it broken, and even repaired the money you can sell it for will not get back the money you spend fixing it, and what you paid. Did you have the car inspected before you bought it? The GTST should not be any worse than most cars of that age, so even if you do sell it and get something else you will have the same problems. I would repair it and just keep some money aside for ongoing maintenance

What about this says "Rare Skyline registry" to you? Perhaps look for areas like "Forced induction performance" or "The Wasteland" or "Search" to answer this question, it has been covered a 1001 times, always with the same asnwers.

Spotted (mainly) white R35 with carbon boot etc and big rear wing, driving across the bridge into Bathurst this afternoon at 7:30ish, was in the R32 GTR going the other way. Car looked mean

I was in the same boat as you about 18 months ago, but was very specifically after a v-spec II, it turned out that mine did have ceramic turbos, I found this out when they blew up... Thankfully my motor was fine but the turbo swap is a bitch of a job. If I was doing it again I would be looking for a car that had some of that work already done, turbos, ecu etc. End of the day if you are worried about a car having this work done having been flogged, well, what are you going to do with it??

VX Berlina vs MX5.. The MX5 is probably quicker on the trailer... I was captaining my old mans VX for a bit, had an S1 stag at the same time, standard auto with an exhaust and there was no comparison, Stag was 4x the car..

Hey mate, great buy with that car, would have snapped it up real quick if I had not bought already, (still tried, but the missus objected..) I have asked the same question about V-specIIs, because of the 1303 built there seems to be about 1500 left... I know of at least 3 Nismos on here including yours, and there is at least 1 N1. Make sure you register in the "rare skylines" thread.

Very definately a Spec V (no longer V Spec) all the carbon, the brakes, the seats, the wheels and a few extra vents give it away. I am far from the import expert that some people here are, but pretty sure it would only be possible to fully register as a private import, ie, if you lived in Japan for at least 3 years and owned the car there for that time. Stand to be corrected.

You would have to identify #2, but pretty sure all 19 were the same

Not sure they are actually different in the side bolsters, ignore the red pretty bits and the badge then compare

Until now there has not been a choice with the rally cars, you either rallied a hatch or an Evo, for me the Sedan wins because it is a little less ugly, and because with the boy racer trolley handle it still looks a little like a WRX of old. Still next to the Liberty/Exiga these things are practically supermodels (a bit like comparing the current prime minister to the old one though)