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hypergear

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Everything posted by hypergear

  1. Assume it is a factory oil drain. Then it should be bending towards the engine.
  2. The next manifold is going to be a log manifold. Same as stock manifold except the tubing size will be larger. It will also have a external gate port welded on top so it allows external wastegating. I can also make plugs that seals the screamer pipe, the whole point is it can be used internally gated for road and externally gated for tracks. The current SS2 is one of the best turbos to drive on road. I'm hopping to see 370rwkws on it with the new setup. On the same time Externally gated SS2 is cheaper to make, so the extra money can be used for a plumb back system.
  3. Some updates: The manifold finally came back from Brae auto fab: and it will be running on a 50mm external gate: This is still a bolton manifold that holds a turbocharger in stock position. How ever I'm going to wait for the later and cheaper manifold prototype that said to be complete on Monday. The head gasket also shown up. how ever it isn't 1.1mm as what the seller claim to be. 0.051 of an inch calculates to be 1.3mm. any one had experiences with 1.3mm head gaskets? or I'm just going to install another stock gasket back in. hopefully it will be back on the road towards the end of next week. I'm keen to see what the SS2 would do at its full potential, on that setup, then follow it by an updated version of the SS3 now has a different wheel curvature, which I'm hopping to hit some where close to the 400rwkws mark with similar response as the SS2. By the way SS1PU is now available in a SR20det bolton form. A trail with customers stock S13 SR20det have reported a final figure of 270rwkws @ 17psi using 260 duration cams on pump 98 responsively. I will pickup and post the dyno read out coming week.
  4. I had some high flowed 800cc injectors from some workshop in WA. and they wasn't so good. Spend bit more money and get some proper injectors. Will save you in the long run.
  5. You can disconnect the fuel pump remove a spark plug and rotate the CAS see if it gets a spark or not. If it does then its probably working. Hook up a fuel pressure gauge see if there is fuel pressure and check the fuel filter.
  6. Got them off ebay. I've paid more then that when I ordered 2 years ago.
  7. I've had the 550ccs from them and they worked fine.
  8. If that turbo was specified for a Rb20det for responsive power then it will be too small for the Rb25det, you will need to reduce timing up top. Or run a larger turbine housing with the existing core.
  9. Its currently a Optima Yellow top D31A.
  10. I forgot to mention in the last run before the head gasket cracked. That SS2 has a customized housing, it is slightly more responsive then the one before that model. SCR48 has that housing. Adam come for a test drive in the newer housing have a feel of differences once I get the car back on the road. Latest configuration The one earlier:
  11. I've Listed the wrong motor. lol. By specification on user manual it is: -Max. Current: 130A -Max. Voltage: 12V -Max. Power: 1700W It has a 12V cooling fan and heat shield attached to it. This electric turbo won't be running at full capacity all times, Its configured to run 100% only when throttle is at 100%, or the compressor starts to surge. In a manual car assume I'm flogging it, the time cycle between each full throttle runs are less then 10 secs before I have to release throttle and change gears. The motor is powered down when throttle is released. Do you think a capacitor is suitable for some thing in that setup? Providing sudden discharge of 10 secs and revive it self when motor stops drawing current. Any diagrams that you post up and show the best setup in your mind? in both bugget and not. Cheers.
  12. As some of yous already knew that we are developing electric turbochargers. (lol don't laugh) The prototype produces 3.3 psi of boost with 0RPMs of lag on a Rb25det engine with turbocharger disconnected. How ever the motor that I'm using draws a large amount of current. it is hooked to an spare $500 Optima 12V battery that keeps it activated on 100% throttle for 15mints (obviously a normal person would not flog their car on full throttle for 15 mints straight on road). The motor uses 12V DC, 120amps, and up to a maximum of 2400 watts. If I am going to hook it up to the car battery or run the 2nd battery in parallel, is there a way that I can satisfy motor's draw current without affecting car's electrical instruments? Ie. Capacitors or some thing in similar, or couple of capacitors, or more batteries in parallels connections, can the factory alternator charge all batteries in the parallel circuit through normal driving? Please post up your ideas. Thanks.
  13. Same price as the bigger high flow. I can run Billet wheel into those at additional cost.
  14. Couple of members have requested for the smaller high flow profile for the M35 Stagea working with factory ECU and fuel setup. I've taken few photos and posted below. Compare to the larger profile, this chra has smaller turbine and comp wheel, also run fnt turbine setup, it is expected to produce some where around the 230rwkws mark with supporting mods, should have stock alike response with a much strong top end. The whole chra is about 15mm shorter then OEM chra, All lines fits fine (oil line needs little bending), the drain pipe flange needs to be slightly skimmed.
  15. Update on the M35 VQ25 turbocharger high flow profile. This is the small profile using the SS1 core. Also run FNT turbine setup. should have stock alike response with much stronger punch. Running with after market ecu I would expect it making some where around the 230rwkws mark. The whole chra is about 15mm shorter then OEM chra, All lines fits fine (oil line needs little bending), the drain pipe flange needs to be slightly skimmed.
  16. Yea, for on my car it was around 3 degrees of timing increase for mid-top range. the power band keeps on rising instead of dropping and the torque curve also becomes lot more spreaded. I will do few runs with the new manifold compare to my current one (expansive one) and see if there are any differences. But either way I'm sure a 50mm gate will make some differences.
  17. I'm waiting for a cometic multi layer metal gasket from usa. I'm not in a great hurry as Brae needs about one more week to have the new manifold made. I will announce price of them once they are successfully trailed.
  18. Since my car's off the road, I've managed getting Brae to have my existing manifold modified for an 50mm external wast gate. We are also in the process of making an simpler exhaust manifold that is in factory style with larger inner diameter made to support an 50mm external gate (or can be left internally gated) at a very affordable price. It should be a bolt on item to factory setup, and holding the turbocharger in factory position. It is designed for for the ATR43 bolt on series or any standard bolt on high flows, I will have that trailed when it becomes first available.
  19. intake pipe makes abit of differences to response. here's one more result from a customer's R34 skyline running SS1PU. made 255rwkws @ 16psi with 2psi creep mid range. This car's also runs a return flow cooler that get abit hot. With a proper cooler at 20psi it should be getting pretty close result as my test car. There has been a recent FNT angle update, might affect tinny bit in response but not power wise.
  20. Then it should be a.63 rear housing. its fine holding about 18psi in upper rev range, you might need an high pressure actuator as stock might not be able to hold that much of back pressure.
  21. Bird's result was from an roller dyno and so's Peters. could be the tuner is conservative, different dyno, differences in the exhaust, cooler, or what ever it might be. Since my car's off the road I'll organize photos post up some progresses of the Turbocharged Kia sportage with high roll over risk project that we are half way through for bit of laughter.
  22. For mid range it can go up to 24psi. Uptop it would be sitting around 18psi depending on the size of the rear housing its been worked on.
  23. Assume it is running the oil feeding line that is supplied with the turbo, if not then it would've been oil starved and needs rebuilding. Check turbo shaft play. (usually +/- 1mm side, and +/- 0.3mm in and out). If there are no abnormal shaft play then its likely not been a turbo issue, unless its has been driven for a while like the way it is. Check to make sure there are no kinks or bends in any parts of the oil drain pipe that are capable of storing oil. Check and make sure engine is not over filled with oil. If you have a catch can, disconnect it and plumb breathers back to its usual spot. Check engine timing. At last remove the turbocharger and drop it by for inspection.
  24. I had 040 in my Sil180, when the metal filter blocks it makes a loud whining noise. I had to pull it out and clean it once every couple of weeks, on the end I teared the mash filter out of the bottom and that worked fine and stopped the whine. lol The walbro more or less bolton to stock bracket, and it had an walbro in there for 4 years without much issues.
  25. The new pump requires an additional earth. By the way it is a walbro F9000262 400L/Min pump. It works once plugged into the stock loom but doesn't create much pressure. Once additional earth is connected it worked fine. How ever didn't help the head gasket.
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