hypergear
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Everything posted by hypergear
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The ceramic rollers are good, its currently working well with the SS2 configuration. I run it on 23psi and it appears to be fine. How ever I wouldn't expect it to have the same life time expectancy as the current journal bearing setup, but I haven't managed to blew any of them up yet so at this stage I don't know how long it will last. -
I probably have those manifold ready towards end of this year, I like to do few more dyno runs with it before placing the order. That will be a bolton upgrade for a stock turbocharger, means it will fits all the bolton ATR43 turbos including high flows. Will start the adaptor flange monday and see what I can come up with. Yes I will need to build one first. Will post results and photos as I go.
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Good to see some one actually done a trace. That dump pipe don't look good, I hope the actual pipe is welded outside of where the flange is, or there will be a big gap once die-grinded. Its going to make discharging of air more difficult, which its already hard getting enough out of the Nissan 6 bolt pattern. I would definitely get that exchanged/fixed before turbo installation. Just got to admit that if you want some thing done properly you must do it your self. I'll be making a Vband / two bolt type 4inch front/dump pipe for all ATR43 turbochargers replacing the current Nissan 6bolt dumps in very near future. Made and trailed a Dual Ceramic roller SS2 today. (took me 3 hours to balance, with all the extra bearing collars) The sample manifold looks not too bad and haven't cracked yet with 22psi. There is a just noticeable off boost response using the roller setup. I will make a few for those interested in evaluation at the normal price.
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Normally the higher the engine revs the greater the amount of boost creep. I see that often. The only way out of it is to mill out the wastegate port and replace the original gate with one with larger OD.
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I'm pretty sure they are what I've got except pained in black with added external gate port, as all the welding patterns are the same. The goal is to supply a kit that keeps every customers at my test car's performance at a budget price. As mentioned earlier, I'm investing a fair amount in re-developing the current TDxx series of turbochargers, manifold and gate are crucial.
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Yes I've fitted the prototype manifold. It is awful, lots of dressing up work required and i'm certainly not impressed with the level of workmanship, the final product I will be selling will be a steam pipe manifold with every thing done to specifications. it will definitely flow much better then a stock Rb25det manifold. I've re-enforced the the joiner, that is where its likely to crack. I'm pretty sure this is what some people sales on ebay. The bolt pattern on the flanges for cyc 4 5 6 are all out. it won't fit unless dressed up. Finally fitted: By the way any one needs their wastegate opened up? we can perform this service for $120.
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All the corners in the .82 B rear housing has been rounded off, The flange area can't be any bigger, its been traced through the gasket. For the Billet TDxx series to work probably there is a need for a proper exhaust manifold, external gate, and a front pipe. I'll get them sorted very soon.
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Cheers for that. The prototype billet td06 performed well and proven reliability after few track days. it is now to stay and available for only $800. After comparing data collected of other TD06SL20Gs + SR20dets, Our version is more responsive with much better mid range. I'll be doing some further evaluations with it on my Rb25det once I have my high mount manifold made. 2ndly we will be starting on making our external gate, using imported stainless steel castings with all machinery work precisely carried out locally. This gate has a fully adjustable pressure chamber, comes with both adaptors, clamps, and 3x different springs in combinations for 10psi, 14psi, 20psi and 20psi+. This gate is $330 on its own, or $250 with any turbochargers.
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The SS1PU is not a GTRs. 2ndly if you are comparing td06 to a GTRs its never been compared on fair grounds. Install your td06 internally gated in a stock rb20det manifold plus all the EGR and road legal crap you would normally expected to run on a stock setup, The TD06 would not perform any where near a GTRs or a SS1PU. All supporting mods counts, The turbocharger does not take all the credits.
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Yes I can do that. will cost you $150 for that setup, you can send back your std actuator with bracket for $100 refund.
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This happens when the turbo loses its turbine wheel, you can probably hear a slight ruddle at the cat too.
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White Smoke On Full Boost - And Average Price Of A Turbo?
hypergear replied to hop1308's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
because hig I presume it is smoke from burnt oil. It does sounds like a turbo issue. At high RPMs there are greater amount of thrust load on bearing collars causing greater amount of shaft movement or gap, allowing greater amount of oil escaping from the rear end seal. Plus in 4th gear it takes longer reaching 7000 rpms which also means more time given. So there is a leak just the amount its leaking and the given time for leakage is not great in lower gears, which you might not be able to notice it while driving. Check and make sure engine is not over filled, and oil drain is not blocked. Remove the intake pipe and have a feel of the turbo shaft movement. Strip the turbo is easy. you can get every thing down from the top. -
Its pretty interesting as the SS1PU is a tiny turbo compare to the G2.5 and G3 while they makes same power level in some cases, with the same turbo it returns a mixed bag of results. Recap on hardware, all there is are: cheap 2.5inches ebay cooler piping kit with 600x300x75mm core 3inch xforce turbo back with no cat and straight through type of mufflers 4inch induction pipe BOV ProfectB EBC. Split fire coil pack They are all average john stuff, I was getting easy 260~290rwkws on pump with three different tuners and dynos in Vic, and that was with a stock built engine on factory exhaust manifold.
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The G3 and G2.5 in .82 Type B Rear housing was holding boost pretty steady during the trail. I was getting under 1 psi of a drop with a Profect B. It had pretty much identical response, I think some how yours might have more back pressure. if playing with the actuator made no differences I would check pressure differences by plugging a boost gauge just after the turbo and compare it to whatever it reads out from the inlet manifold. You might find:
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Please refer to post 6125. They are identical turbochargers, both with .82 type B rear housings just different actuator setup.
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We are talking about 1.2psi gain, not a mojor but there is a difference, notice the shape of the curve too. The 20psi actuator still had 3psi drop. this sheet was taken when using the same turbine housing compare to: The SS1PU probably had the most boost drop internally gated, this actuator setup should work well with that.
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Well if you runit on stock manifold as a bolt on turbo internally gated on that housing its not going to make lots of power. GTX3076 is ideal for external gate. Also I didn't see metail induction pipe in your mod list, you will need a 4inch metal induction pipe for that turbo.
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Had the car tuned again today and we had some pretty good out comes. All results today are still based on the ported factory exhaust manifold. First of all the twin actautor setup tested and the result went exactly as expected. the amount of boost drop was halved. Graph below shown twin actuator setup from today in orange while blue was the single setup from last week: This was the single actuator setup from last week with figures: As we can see boost drop with twin actuator setup is 1.2psi, while boost drop from a single is 2.6psi. As for turbine housing concern I've used a .82 type B rear working with the SS2's CHRA. the result was 3 degrees of extra timing up top, with exactly 21kws of gain. Orange is from today, while blue is a custom profiled .63 rear housing from last week. This combination is probably best SS2 option working with stock exhaust manifold.
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Sorry I don't think you can run 5psi on it. if it is then check actuator preloading.
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This topic has been covered here from memory. that cause massive boost spike as once separated the internal gate is virtually sealed up in a cylinder, making pressure by pass difficult as your waste gate can not open up to 90 degree. Run a 3 (3.5 preferred) inches bell mouth dump for the best performance.
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Its different to a big can actuator, I've used it while ago and I couldn't get rid of the boost drop, the current high pressure actuators worked better. Big can or high pressure actuators will only work to certain extend, the stronger the actuation spring is the more boost spike occurance in mid range as exhaust manifold pressure at that point is not as high as what they are in upper rev range. The Actuator is acting against both inlet manifold pressure and exhaust manifold pressure, The EBC can bleed off inlet manifold pressure how ever has no control over exhaust manifold pressure. Pressure at any points of its distribution remains constant, So in this setup the advantage of having two actuators halves the force generated through exhaust pressure. The end result in theory should half the amount of boost drop or better. I've taken the car out for a thrash with both actuators hooked up in one boost source, they are now sitting at 18psi instead of 16psi on a single. So hopefully it holds 20psi flat on the factory exhaust manifold.
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I've spent couple of hours on a bridged twin actuator setup with some scraps I had. In theory once both actuators gets connected to a single boost source, the valve open pressure stays the same as having a single actuator, how ever the strength acting against the gate doubles. I hope I'm on the right track and my innovation holding boost steady through out the whole rev range.
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Temporarily Block Off External Wastegate?
hypergear replied to Hanaldo's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
lol. no that is just the plug that seals of the screamer pipe to the gate. -
Temporarily Block Off External Wastegate?
hypergear replied to Hanaldo's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
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It has to be in a particular angle as else the comp cover will hit the manifold. I've added few spacers under the actuator between the bracket. as long as the rod is perpendicular to actuator it self it will actuate fine.
