hypergear
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Everything posted by hypergear
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R33Gtr Vs R34Gtr Turbo Manifold Difference?
hypergear replied to drag-on silvia's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
You mean porting from Stock GTR manifolds: To: will kill response. for around 300rwkws you might want to keep them stock. -
There should be around 30thou clearance which is just under a mm, you can't get 1.5mm as it would be scrapping housings. pressurized oil centers the shaft once engine starts, so as long as its running and boosting then its all normal.
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Ok here are some results using the cheap side mount V stock manifold V local hand made manifold. Pink is ported stock manifold, Been the most responsive, but lowest in power evening using more boost. Solid Red is the cheap side mount. the laggiest and required bit of work for it to fit properly. Power isn't bad. Thin red is local hand made side mount, slightly laggier then stock while making the most power on least amount of boost. For a budget its worth its money. I would still go for a proper side mount.
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Have a feel on the turbo shaft and see if there are noticeable play, also double check and make sure the drain pipe is not bent or kinked.
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The R33 highflowed turbos would support up to 240rwkws while R34 turbochargers can be high flowed to support 260rwkws. response wise high flowed R33 turbo is about 300RPMs earlier. Personaly I prefer to run a highflowed R34 turbo
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How ever during the time your car had missfiring and AFM issues plus other problems, the turbo was used as a stocker bolton with stock exhaust manifold internally gated at 16psi, 270rwkws at the time by hyperdrive was more then reasonable. The 58T 3576 in.82 stopped making power at 335rwkws on pump98 with 25psi of boost on my Rb25det, I don't think your car would be far off to it with every thing in working order at similar boost level. The SL2-25G has a much smaller turbine in comparison so it will have better power band downlow, how ever will definitly not make better power used on your old setup.
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Pretty good result. which state are you in? and who is your tuner? I will recommennd him to customers in your state
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That was my ceramic roller bearing highflow with a .60 comp housing and new externlly gated through turbine housing. its pretty interesting seeing the 6boost's manifold has very long runners. any one can share some theory in doing that?
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I've done two more drawnings relating to newer generation of FNT turbine housings so hopefully be ready for trail when I get back. The new housing is a little bit more "for giving" that allows more circulation of exhaust gas in the exhaust housing, which should lower heat and increase turbine side efficiency. In theory would work well in abit restrictive eviroment. 2ndly as we all know split pipe creates boost creep. The 2nd drawning allows an adjustable "bank" inside the turbine housing making the creep controlable. That should combate boost drop behavior in upper rev range. I might need to re-engineer a special actuator that allows more travel for it to work. Will post results and photos once they are made.
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Yes I'm currently overseas and due back in couple of weeks time. But my workshop is still operating so carrying out jobs as usual, if I'm not answering the phone please send in an email. I will usually reply within 24 hours. I believe this behavior has some thing to do with short runners inlet manifold, put your stock inlet back on and that should smooth the power curve out. Also was it dynoed in 4th gear? It looks like as if it has wheel span off the rollers as the no. for KM/H is too short for the gear, if that is the case then the reading won't be true. With the boost drop best is to get a boost reading pre the cooler. If that is also dropping then have a play with the actuator preload, try a stronger actuator or the twin actuator setup. That generally lowers it to about 2.5psi. Needs to play with it a little to set it up. Or come pass once I get back I should be able to twick it to the right level driving it around in 3rd gear with a boost gauge.
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That means turbo's pushing some thing's limit which power band does not responds to the tune. I think its in the exhaust or some where, try drop it and see if any thing changes. Was it a plumb back external gate? Normally cooler restrictions would drop heaps of boost, and the cooler would be burning hot on the cool side. So its not the case. Also if you are in Sydney might be worth while visiting Toshi for a quick check up.
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Its more of the wheel sizes are similar, the actual trim and blade profiles are very different. Here is a ATR43G4 (big turbo) that's been recently installed on a R33 stock Auto and shift kit with 98. I think thats the most I've seen out of a auto so far and its only on 16.5 psi of boost.
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Interesting Power Figures - Day On The Dyno
hypergear replied to privatealpha's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
I've made an identical turbocharger for the development of our SS1PU turbocharger last year. I've made 248rwkws it didn't produce much of a nice curve with noise dive after 6000RPMs. I believe the comp wheel is too small for a Rb25det, how ever would be a ok turbo for a Rb20det. -
For a RB20det you can run the SS1 std version in .64 rear. They makes around 230rwkws around 17psi, kick in full boost about 4000RPMs.
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Yes this is some thing equivalent to a 2860 in .64 turbine and .60 comp on rb25det. Makes 20psi by 3000RPMs lol . it idles on boost. But power isn't that good.
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The stegea is a much heavier car so on road it actually has same behaivor as if I've increased my dyno ramps. Means it will have much more heat uptop, and spooling the turbo alittle faster. I would definitly not be going for a smaller turbocharger for this car, its going to pin and cause issues. Plus auto cars appears to have slightly better response then manual. The SS1 none PU version is a babe 2871 equivalent, I can also make a 2860 equivalent that bolton in a .64 turbine. They are pretty awsome on Rb20dets but they are too small for the stegea.
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Yes you can run the SS1PU version, that is zappy responsive and makes around 260rwkws in a Rb25det on a manual. I can also high flow your stock comp housing to the body of that turbo so every thing looks stock standard.
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Well if you run stock manifold (or Brae bolton) with a .70 size housing it will find fine with a 15mm spacer even running internal gate, but its a pain getting the bracket engineered that clears every thing. Some thing in this size I would be recommending running it in a proper exhaust manifold, its not going to perform at its best other wise. For the Stagea with the Neo motor, the best option is to just high flow the factory turbocharger. We can run a SS2 billet chra init, which would have very similar response as stock, but be able to handle much higher boost level and capable of around the 260rwkws mark used as a bolton turbo.
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Yes I was sitting in a hoist This is my first batch of 25G billet compressor wheels. I've customized the wheel hub and fitted much larger blade with taller profile. I'm hopping to peek around 400rwkws on stock cams before hitting 7000RPMs on E85.
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Oppz M10x1.5 thread. Typo
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The stock manifold has M12x1.5 thread. just buy 60mm long studs from Supercheap, cut the hex head off and there is the stud. They comes with Nuts too.
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hooo crap. I was red lining it 5th gear and my speedo pointed at 10km/H. Its still using the same turbocharger, external gate was holding pretty flat 20psi, in theory the exhaust side should be cooler compare to stock manifold, I didn't hear any knock, hopefully engine's alright. Or will be rebuilding it again for 2013.
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Some further updates on building the TD06/67 test rig. Car is now fitted with a Brae high mount manifold with our own 50mm external gate plumbed back with a 4inch exhaust exhaust. Looks good. It did not come with a cheap price. All including the exhaust manifold, screamer, dump pipe plus installation comes to $1880 plus $250 for the external gate, including the turbocharger this kit comes to: $3230 How ever there is a very noticeable gain in mid top end torque without noticing the lose of response. I will use this test rig to trail all the TDxx as well as the existing ATR43 turbochargers. This setup should provide the best possibly environment for the performance of any turbochargers, and is whats expected on a welly built track car. The end results will vary if components of the setup is differ. Externally gated turbochargers are cheaper to produce.
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I also had this problem on the R33, happens the air doses backwards onto the AFM. It was fixed by relocating the afm into the cooler piping.
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On the SS series plus other G series, they got updated wastegate setup now. The boost drop on those at about 20psi is around 2psi. If any one's got a huge 6~7psi drop then that has nothing to do with the actuator setup. It means its got some sort of restrictions more likely on the cold side. could be intake pipe, small cooler or blocked/bad/small piping. You will find that by tabbing a boost gauge straight after the turbocharger and inside the plenum. If there are big differences then that is the problem. I'm seeing this often with return flow and some cheap ebay cooler kits. Reference is in page 83.
