rev210

Buster, Doing anything like an 11 second pass on the street is illegal too. I'm sure you aren't saying that you drive around the suburbs with full throttle every second of the way with a 2wd, you don't have a GTR so even if you wanted too it wouldn't happen. If you are responsible I guess the 11 second pass is only legal on the strip (or maybe darwin ). I understand where you are coming from I've been there with other cars. And I'm probably going there again with the gtr. As for knowing you've got the power " when ever or where ever you need it " , adrian will tell you (as I'm sure other people who have owned nitrous equiped cars would) this is his understanding about his car too. If thats your bottom line there isn't a fig of difference, appart from an occasional tank refill.

buster, didn't have a chance to do any timing device stuff. Was a week off going to the motorplex with the better part of 150hp shot when the roo's made the change of plan (no nitrous involved there). The old bus had the go to do a high 12 without gas. It ran a 13.3 with a major tuning issue without gas and a 2.3 60ft (thanks to uneven inflation on the rear tyres) so I was guessing a mid to low 12 would be very easy. Pushing the envelope a little probably 11's but, that would have made it more of an iceskating run. I think I had an offer of some 540's for the day too so had it all come off maybe a low 11? You never know. The batton is passed to adrian now so I reckon he can get pretty close to a 10 with the same hit I used, well I hope he does anyway.

buster, We all agree that your car only does 11's when you want it to. You decide when you'd like to go quick or if you'd like to putt around. If you have the power under your foot you can choose to use it or not if you have a large turbo or an equivalent nitrous kit. It doesn't really matter. So in reality your car is only an 11 second car 'some of the time' and not all of the time regardless. You will find the nitrous equiped car is much the same concept, just a different application. Once you actually have owned a nitrous equiped car you will understand what I mean. So often is the case that people who don't struggle to grasp just how easy it is to activate and how long a tank actually does last driving around. I think if you are in for circuit stuff then you won't get the same enjoyment out of a nitrous kit as a nice big turbo setup. But it still doesn't mean you can't have both. And when it comes to the straight line nitrous is alot cheaper and perhaps even a tad more fun.

he probably doesn't have many mods to get a 13.3 if he's got a 60ft of 1.8.

Get the K&N or similar, at least you can clean them properly and re-use. I advise also to spend very little money on one since a filter upgrade offer SFA difference in power (you won't feel it). I know you are going to put this in a propper cold air box as well since you don't want to make less power than the stock filter system.

buster, sadly didn't get to take the car to the strip before kangaroo's made me sell a few things to adrian. I had plenty of fun none the less. From experience I'd say even with the 205's on the back I would have managed a very entertaining mid/low 12. I was running around double the shot of gas adrian was at one stage.

Right you are! Releasing the clutch right ----- Drop it. sidestep the clutch when ready to engange. Changing gears at the right time ---- Rev to end of power band rpm and change up gear. The rest is up to your car. If it won't capitulate then modify it. If you have an auto life is made a bit easier.

Cost using nitrous for 11's. Nitrous Kit + fit = less than $2k Big ass Fuel pump (needs to be big enough to feed the motor and the nitrous kit) = $500 Fuel pressure reg = $200 Pineapples (diff cradle kit) = $100 Drag radials = $700 New ceramic puck clutch plate (if your present one is factory organic) = $500 thats about $4k to do the 11's. You don't need a fmic or even an aftermarket ecu. A second hand S-afc for $350 will be nice for off the gas but, otherwise not necessary.

I think adrian's motor will be ok considering my old one was not seemingly effected at all and was running quite a bit more gas. You can run a 10 without a cage once. Then they kick you off till you put one in.

I reckon go for 10's on the standard turbo mate. Just have some spare cash for an engine rebuild ready when you up the shot. What fuel and nitrous jet sizes are you using for the 75 shot?

funkymonkey, why don't you stick a basic translation down for each tuning article and have the mods sticky it? Would be pretty interesting for those interested in how things are done with the bolt on boys in japan.

Any chance of getting some dyno comparisons up on the ROIL Gold?(Steve?) I'm hanging out to see if we get anything more than seat of the pants info. So far I have yet to find a back to back dyno testimonial on Roil so I think if we can get some up then this will give the product a great selling point over and above the glowing praise it seems to be getting. The boost response can also be tracked on the dyno so we can add this to the proof. If someone wants to send over some roil I'll be happy to organise for back to back dyno's (giving it the propper run in kms beforehand of course), showing before and after on my GTR if needs be.

No. It's a hitachi. It's a T3 exhaust flange. And before you start another thread... It has a ceramic exhaust wheel so you can't boost it over 12psi without shortening it's lifespan. They are around $500 secondhand if you ever blow one up.

Your questions have already been answered in the forum plenty of times. Read some of the sticky threads and do a search for each answer.

you also might want to look at where the leaking air comes out and where it leaks to. Consider that the feed at the top of the BOV has a pressure difference thanks to the plenum air.

I'm pretty sure the leak occurs at a point where the piston part is just starting to move. The hole becomes blocked as the piston moves past a little groove due to the manifold pressure feed on the top.

shane, your problem is there is an air leak somewhere.

Niz, last time paul put one of those on his he didn't get any extra power (just having a dig), might pay to ask if it is in the factory position with 0 adjustment or whether it has been set to anything else. The base timing needs re-adjustment with the cam gear timing change and you might require a little fiddle with the S-afc too but, its very easy to set it up for some extra zing if he hasn't had a chance to muck around with it yet.

the stock bov does not leak on boost, it leaks a tiny little bit of air around 0 pressure to make the transition on and off boost smoother. The BOV mod is nothing special it does nothing for power. I tried it and I must say leaving it alone is the best idea.

it can't work better, it doesn't work better, it will cause problems. Leave the factory one alone it's a very good BOV.

intercooler piping is a different sort of issue. Since black is good at radiating heat and absorbing it you really only want it on the intercooler. Black pipes after the intercooler (the colder ones) will absorb more heat than if they were silver (only a little more heat). The turbo to intercooler pipe can get very hot so insulation is the name of the game in both cases. If you don't want to thermal tape them both then stick with silver. I hope that helps

The absorbtion of light is a test and characteristic of a black body radiator not the reason it is a better absorber of heat (hence a better heat sink). For that you need to ask 'how' it absorbs heat (do a search under black body radiator theory). We can measure the surface temperature under load of the black and standard intercooler with an optical pyrometer and see the difference in a pitch black (no external visable light source) enviroment for example. Bottom line is there is the same benifit at night time.

painting it black will make the intercooler more efficient (black body radiator). You make slightly more power because the intake charge temp is dropped by as much as 5 degrees over a bare and shiny metal one (thats why your engine radiator is black).

the temp correction doesn't help much in circumstances of very hot or very cold. An ambient temp of 50deg C will mean that less boost and less timing can be added to an engine than ambient of 25deg. Regardless of the temp correction this situation will impact the power potential and curve because you are left with less margin to control detonation. It also doesn't help with altitude,humidity and the % of O2 in the intake charge as a result of stale air ventilation in the dyno area. Shootout mode or not there is more to be compared than just spinning some rollers.