rev210

and we have a volvo V8

The factory unit weighs about 6kg. An alloy unit can be made around 800gms, thats a saving in the order of a light flywheel with the same effect. There is a possibillity of making a unit with a vulcanised rubber sleave just like the factory one however instead of steel it can be made of alloy. I'm guessing the weight would be around 1.5kg. This type of setup would probably cost two or three times as much to make. I would need to pull the factory one appart, have the alloy machined to the same dimensions and have a vlucanised rubber sleave bonded with it.

I've decided to use my GTR's engine as a guinea pig for a light weight alloy front pulley. In a few months a mate is going to have two Rb26 long motors from which we will use the front pulley to have a copy made in lightweight alloy. It is my belief that the 'harmonic' issue people have suggested is not an issue at all for an engine that will see less than 8,000rpm , is a street motor with less than 600hp , and will only ever occasionally see a drag strip appart from regular road driving. To date the only evidence given of a front pulley having conection with harmonic block cracking is the reports from the early group A days when the front balancer was re-designed. My optimistic take on this is that the regular factory rb26 crank needs work in the counterweight area to address the sustained high rpm use. Seems there are a few factorys making upgraded cranks for this reason. Attempting to externally balance the engine is a bandaid. Since my engine is over 230,000kms old if there are any 'harmonic' issues I expect it will show up rather quickly. Anyway I'm happy to continue the debate and provide a real working example.

I'm prepeared to get a lightweight front pulley made for the Rb26dett. At present I have a post on the forced induction area. I have the oppertunity to have a front pulley made when a mate gets a few RB26 engines in a few months but, I was wondering if anyone has a spare front crankshaft pulley lying around they would be willing to lend me so I can have a copy made in alloy. This would save me waiting around and mean the 'test' will begin earlier and provide WA Rb26 owners with an earlier oppertunity to get cheap pulleys should it work.

a special olympics thread this

I'll tell Liz (wife). Maybe she'd like to take the volvo out for a cruise or go down to the drags if you organise an event there. Gives me another excuse to put a nitrous kit on the volvo for her.

get rid of the mines computer or buy a S-afc II for $500 and get the AFR's fixed.

nice price on the flywheel. The comment about going below 5kg on a balanced flywheel causing any kind of damage to bearings is rubbish however. You should retract the statement for fear of scare mongering for business, a tactic I'm sure you are not advocating. I'd like to point out that 6kg odd is still alot lighter than factory stock and for those who don't have $500+ to spend on a lighter unit it offers a cheap but, very significant performance increase. the flywheels are CNC machined but are they also balanced at a significant rpm?

Dodge S/S Barracuda B029 --- 10.5

Jimx, you will probably find the Lucas and Morey (re-badged Lucas) additives are very similar to oil extreeme also, it's cheaper btw. I'm using the Lucas oil additive in the GTR and V8 volvo presently. In the GTR I have less than their suggested amount however only about 400ml.

nothing wrong with the malpassi if it's given some shielding from heat, being sensible you try to mount it away from exhausts and things. I've heard a few mechanics bad mouth them because they put them too close to a strong heat source or the application had no room to thermally isolate it. I'd be inclined to go the nismo unit because it's a bolt in. But, if you can get a very cheap malpassi then theres no reason to pass it up.

how about a carbon fibre tail shaft? Save a massive 8kgs off the rotational mass. Big increase in response accelleration and engine braking. Should be about $2k or so for a custom unit.

Good time! Which strip was it at and which HKS turbo have you got mate? You should post up the time slip to inspire the rest of the R32 gtst crew.

Thats all good mate. If you have a similar surface to the drags to test on you should be in the right ball park for a good pass.

Lith, If you look at my old time slip at the start of this thread thats a mid 13 time for sure. However the g-tech reading was not done on a drag strip surface? If not you might find the time is going to be generous by comparison. If you get the same 60ft time on the real drag stip you will certainly be getting that time however.

Cam gears for looks? If they are under a dust cover (like they should be) no one is going to see them. Adjustment to camshaft timing with adjustable cam gears is very important when going to the finest detail of engine tune. Race engines do not have them on for looks. A Cam gear will cost around $150 or so, only need one for the exhaust side. It's typical to see 10rwkw increase through the power band from retarding the exhaust cam timing 4 degrees. Fitting one is a 30min job and if you know the right SDU people or are handy with the spanner, it's free. The base ignition timing will need an adjustment and the AFR will benifit from a check also. Should be at worst a little time on the dyno for a tune ($100). All up $250 = 10rwkw. Regarding the cam shaft change it will cost upwards of $600 a camshaft, It's $800 odd to fit and retune. The gains may be as much as 15-25rwkw on a fairly standard motor with the right sized camshafts. All up $1400+ = 15-25kw. Depends on your budget. The cam gear is a bargain mod.

the saab turbo has much less flow potential than the stocker turbo. forget it.

lightweight flywheel --- $500 = 0.5 sec 1/4 mile improvement. My old R33 gtst ran a standard intercooler and still ran low 13's with a poor 60ft on the stock turbo.

My old gtst had a HKS 264/ 9mm lift exhaust cam added at the time of a stock spec rebuild. Running the factory turbo and intercooler. The gains occured right through the power band to the tune of about 20hp. The midrange is very healthy. You have a larger turbo and stand to gain an even better average power improvement. Like some have said it might not be required to get a 12 but, to get there easy a set of cams is the go. If it loses traction just throw more power at it, eventually you will get there

go to the forced induction section and do a search.

I've got a volvo, probably quicker than some of the gtst's owners have on the forum too.

A single billet flywheel is going to be very strong and not significantly effected by heat vs it's strength. A multi material flywheel like the one shown might have issues with different expansion rates but, the few race aluminium ones that I have seen never had a problem. The chromemolly ogura 4.8kg is 400% stronger than the factory cast iron one.

auto's don't have a flywheel. So the answer is No.

The R33 gtst beats the VL in factory stock form, based on manufacturers info. It also beats it when mildly modded and makes more power as well. Consider the factory turbo'd R33's that have run 12's. My old one ran low 13's with the factory intercooler and ecu. Thats on a 'real' drag strip. You can add at least half a second to that g-tech time to get a better picture of what the VL will really do on a drag strip. The only thing going for the factory VL turbo is the steel exhaust wheel other than that it flows significantly less horsepower than the Factory R33 turbo. Also the old VL turbo's love to crack the exhaust housing. Try getting 200rwkw out of a stock VL turbo.

my old gtst was pretty standard appart from an exhaust and it ran 13.8@101mph on 205 tyres.