rev210

Thats fine if it does, but you tune the engine based on those things and not the dyno. The dyno is not able to predict the new parrameters of a 3D igntion and fuel map based on the readings it takes from the booth.

I like shootout mode. I think it's nice to have a dyno competition standard, for those interested in doing that kind of thing. On the other hand.. The properties of the environment the dyno is located is a very significant factor to power generation also. Consider a dyno dynamics dyno in shootout mode 1500m above sea level, the air is very hot and poluted. In this situation the timing and fuel maps of this vehicle must be adjusted according to the limits of the enviroment first. So the horsepower of this vehicle in reality must be adjusted lower than in a more favourable environment . There is no altitude correction in the shootout mode is there? nor does the shootout mode detect ambient concentration of oxygen and other gasses or even moisture? It doesn't really matter what the claims of power are comming from other dyno's if those dynos are not standardised in an environmental sense in addtion to running a standardised peice of software calibration. Some food for thought is the fact that Perth is one of the least polluted citys in the world ,the elevation of most suburbs is pretty close to sea level and the air is fairly dry throughout the year.

Neons are probably more about what other people think of your car's look than what you do (since they are on the 'outside'). Of course you see you car parked quite alot from the 'outside' but most people with neons seem not to turn them on when they are standing outside the car or leaving it parked with them left on. I put neons in the same category as a really big rear wings and electronic blow off valves (you could get one of those for the same reason as the neons). No one can stop you getting neons of course but, you will be bagged out for it, it is what we call 'rice' and makes the owner a 'rice-boy/girl'. I can't help myself when I see them on a car, I may be polite about it but I find it hard to not laugh. Maybe if I neon the volvo wagon it will stop people thinking they are cool? Sort of a community outreach for the 'ricer' population.

Shame really, you could have inserted a large worked V8 (like mine see pics above) or even better a toyota turbo 6. Volvo's make the best sleepers.

neons are for signs that say " vacant " and " beer " if you have a neon sign under your car that says " beer " I reckon that would be cool. I think you will like the look of your car without the neons.

That's the spirit! I'll race you on 'lpg' to make it more even.

After you woop your mate you can be wooped by my 1970 volvo wagon, it's all relative and relatively fun.

Steve and the boys at SST are fair dinkum. They do have some good results on the dyno, but more importantly the cars tuned there perform really well too. I had my old R33 GTST run up on thier dyno a day after a drag meeting where I ran 13.3 @106mph. I had issues with rpm above 4000rpm or so which I wanted a dyno run to analyse a possible cause . I got a reading of 235rwhp at about 4000rpm from memory. This backs up my mph from the previous day quite well. It doesn't tell you whether the rest of my cars setup (non power making) makes it capable of the same time and mph, in the case of someone else getting the same power figure or higher. I think Steve-SST, is probably a little frustrated with trying to show proof of anything when people won't accept dyno readings or even track results. At the end of the day it's good to get ideas about what works and what doesn't that have some evidence behind them. and whilst it's good to analyse results carefully we need to appreciate them as well. Why reinvent the wheel? my 2c

Did the head require machining to fit the Tomei cams at all? How many shims did you end up using?

Mate of mine just took his GTR down to the plex and ran 12.4's with crap 2.3 60ft times. Mods are exhaust and filter & boost restrictor removed. Factory ecu/turbs etc.

Paul also recommends covering your entire engine bay in 4 dot brake fluid too

I got me some cheap cams !!!! (cams sold btw)

If you want to race things and win, the gts is not the car to use. If you'd like to drive around in style and comfort the gts is quite good. On the other hand... Nitrous oxide is the easiest way forward (no not a pun). Your engine with the right setup will live with up to a 150HP shot. You will need a larger fuel pump and a set of colder heat range plugs.You will have change from $2k though not much if you don't do most of the work. I put a kit together quite some time ago on a pretty stock GTST from second hand parts I bought around the traps. The same kit plus other bits is now on 2rismo's car and he is into 11's with a little less gas than I was running. A free flowing exhaust is a good start before undertaking the nitrous kit. Oh and the nitrous kit is illegal to run on the street in WA but, fine for the drags. Removing the bottle is very easy to manage for driving around town.

Good work! Although some aftermarket camshafts tend to work well in the '0' position, this position was arrived at by the manufacturer according to a specific engine base. If the engine/turbo combination you run differs greatly from the manufacturers test base it makes sense that a different camshaft timing may be required, as is often the case. If it were possible to make RB26 camshafts easily in Australia I'm sure an even better set of cams could be purpose made for that engine of yours given the amount of advance on the exhaust side of things. What about the specs on those turbo's mate? (I think there is a line of GTR owners waiting to know).

I'd leave it 'stock' for a little bit if your going to get an R33 gtst. They can go quite well without any ecu tune at all. As a 'first' car you will find it has more go in it than you will know what to do with. The rear diff cradle kit AKA pineapples are your first mechanical purchase if you'd like to increase the rear traction, a good idea for winter. Book yourself into some advanced driver training as soon as you are able, this is the best place to spend your first few $$$, most on this forum would agree with me there. Have fun mate

PFC does everything without the need to bodge up the factory ignition, it's a 5min plug in. And easy to tune. The Haltec is not better in any regard.

go drive the car yourself to a 10 second pass and shut them all up, should be pretty easy.

raist60, I'd agree that an engine need not burn oil and run poorly if run in on synthetic if run in hard. However give me the same engine and mineral oil run in and I'll show you a motor with better compression and power every time (not to mention how much longer it's rings are going to last). The object is to get the rings to 'bite' nicely into the honed surface (a good surface hone is critical also). Synthetic oil like mobile 1 is so good at reducing the friction so it's never going to allow the kind of wear a 'run in' mineral oil will.

I appreciate where your comming from Steve. In the performance thread some time ago we covered the argument about the RB series being of the NVH style of pulley or an actual harmonic balancer. I am placing a bet that it is a NVH because so far no one has given any data or examples of it not being one. It's certainly not a 'rock solid' position but one I am willing to test due to the fact there is great benifit to be had if I am on the right track. I don't mind putting a well worn motor to the test because due to the pre-existing wear any harmonic issues will show up straight away. That and I think 230,000kms is pretty good out of an Rb26 and if it needs a rebuild I guess it deserves one http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ighlight=pulley Thanks all the same for the input I'm quite glad for it. It's good to have people looking out for you trying to save some heart ache. So far I have a pulley offered to measure up and a place to get it done. I'm interstate for the next two weeks so when I'm back I'll start to the ball rolling for the test.

that was the thread I have a link to here... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ighlight=pulley

Something from the thread I mentioned for those who can't open it... I think we are getting the pulleys confused with the harmonic dampers found on some V6 / V8 engines. "Harmonic Balancer" is a term that is used loosely in the automotive industry. Technically, this type of device does not exist. The "balancer" part comes from engines that are externally balanced and have a counterweight cast into the damper, hence the merging of the two terms. None of the applications that we are talking about utilize a counterweight as part of the pulley as these engines are internally balanced. The pulleys on most of the new import and smaller domestic engines have an elastomer (rubber ring) incorporated into the pulley that looks similar to a harmonic damper. The elastomer in the OEM pulley serves as an isolator, which is there to suppress natural vibration and noise from the engine itself, the A/C compressor, P/S pump, and alternator. This is what the manufacturers call NVH (Noise Vibration & Harshness) when referring to noticeable noise and vibration in the passenger compartment. It is important to note that in these applications, this elastomer is somewhat inadequate in size, as well as life span, to act as an effective torsional damper. If you look at the pulleys on some of the imports there is no rubber to be found at all. Most who have installed and driven a vehicle with pulleys will notice the engine actually feels smoother. This is a natural result of replacing the heavy steel crank pulley with a CNC-machined aluminum pulley. NVH is variable and unique to every car. NVH will increase with the installation of an aftermarket intake and/or exhaust, for example. Think of OEM intake systems in newer cars, they use baffles and resonators in the intake to quiet all the intake noise. Aftermarket intakes eliminate these resonators and create dramatic increases in engine noise from the throttle opening and closing. So to most tuners, certain types of NVH can make the driving experience more enjoyable. The purpose of a traditional harmonic damper is to protect against crank failure from torsional movement. This is not necessary in most modern engines because of the many advances in engine design and materials. Factors such as stroke, displacement, inline, V configurations, power output, etc., do determine when and how these harmonics and torsional movements occur. Again, there is a lot of internet hearsay about the pulleys. When motor failures occur, too often people are quick to blame the pulley first, rather than taking the time to look logically into why there was a problem. Here's a few examples of successful front pulley change overs on 6 cyl: BMW M series , 5 series, Audi A6 ,Toyota the whole range of 6's found in supras including NA's and turbo's. This is a small sample of the straight 6's that can live without the harmonic balancer. All have had the front pulley replacement and none have had premature bearing failure as a direct result. Food for thought.

It's all good I'm very happy to have the input. And of course I need plenty of people to say 'I told you so' when it doesn't work

daniel, It's not a harmonic balancer. It has a tortional vibration function not a balancing function, very different things. your on the wrong track. Look at the description of the crank pulley in the GTR manual. There is a fair bit covered in a previous thread on this issue. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ighlight=pulley Thanks for your input none the less. Did I say 230,000kms? I meant 237,000kms. Engine runs very well for a grandpa and thats testimony to a good service history. Oh, it has had a full life too with track days and hill climbs and things.

Champion ReVN211 ! Once I get a pulley we can start the experiment. Sooner if someone can offer an RB26 crank pulley to copy.

I'm psychic. that and the fact he gets beaten by an MX6 and he has a Mines computer.