rev210

pineapples.....

Just wondering if anyone has information on tests done to determine the flow benifits of various 'hard pipe' upgrades. Cusco ,HKS and others have kits going so perhaps there I have started to notice that the factory R32 gtr piping is less than perfect. As an example the metal pipe in the guard that connects to the rubber one with the plenum on the otherside. Just inside this metal pipe is the connecting pipe to the BOV's and it has a nice big lip of metal protruding into the airflow. Not to mention the cast metal pipe that joins the two turbo outlets with the "twin turbo" badge on it.

rwkw , multiply by the bulldust factor = engine powa

With 170 odd rwkw I ran 13.3 @106 mph in an R33 gtst with a 2.3 60ft.

Memph, You pay freight ($20) + $200 and their yours.

Thanks Ken. See you thursday for the tune. Dave

Had a look on my aussi R32 GTR ECU and found an adjustment screw with some jap writing around it. It looks to be adjusted with an ordinary screwdriver. What does it do?

Anyone got a wire diagram/ instructions to set up the Launch control on the Power FC pro? I am under the impression that a switch is used under the clutch pedal but, thats about it. Not sure of the connection to the ecu etc..

time to start busking in the mall

A set of standard R32 gtr cams and cam gears for $200. Cams are in good nick and worked perfectly in my gtr before I upgraded to bigger ones. Located in Perth. pm if interested

you should be able to tune out the lumpy idle. When I bolted in my PFC pro for a quick muck around I was able to take out the lump within a few minutes with some timing and fuel map changes, you need to raise the idle rpm a little as well. The AFM voltage difference is not suprising since the ecu averages them out it's not a problem. The position and pipe shape differences will always introduce different flows through each AFM. If it has a lumpy idle and associated poor combustion it will foul the plugs pretty quickly, these aren't really big cams so a lumpy idle is not something you need to live with nor do you want to given the plugs last a day of driving around before their high load capabillities are shot.

Amaru, 6's are a bit hot for higher rpms and boost I reckon. Go for BCPR7ES.

I should have added that in my experience with knackered plugs, as I think mine are, they can be fine untill you stick them under load. This is with plugs that have been too rich. They get muck in them all over the place.Although you might pull them out after sorting the mixtures they are still fouled inside and around the electrode even though they look sort of clean. In this state an ultrasonic bath can clean them but, with copper plugs who cares just chuck them in a bin. Since I drove around for quite some time with crappy rich rough idle I did enough fouling to permanently root the plugs up. I found out last night when against my better judgement I thought a trip to the drags would clean them by the second run...wrong! They went from bad to worse. two runs and I went home knowing I sould have changed the plugs. For those interested in how bad the plugs were I only ran a 13.2 @ 102mph. The plugs wouldn't let me past 5,000rpm without carry on, let alone a good launch 1.9 60ft (bog down under load thanks to the plugs). Bottom line is if you run too rich for too long the plugs become rooted, no matter how clean you get them afterwards they just never work as well again. Yet another reason for using cheaper copper plugs when tuning things up for the first time.

Hi there, Got the same issue with the factory ecu and modest boost (boost restrictor pulled). Although it initially didn't carry on like that all the time. I suspect the plugs. Plug gap and heat range in my case. Bottom line is the fuel and ignition maps need to be reworked to suit but, I've been lazy. I've got a PFC pro just sitting around waiting to go in. I'm changing them today so I'll let you know if it fixes the problem. It sounds exactly the same down to the oil temp.

I can help handyandy. Start a new thread or better still do a search on the topic ' hiflow turbo ' there are plenty of good discussions on that topic for you to have a look at.

damn straight adrian! It's like .....in the olden days if you were really special you could pull 13.4's with your fairly stock R33 gtst.... These days it's all about 12's on the stock turbo..

still got the cams if anyone wants them.

Phenolic spacers are as old as the hills. Works a treat on carby based engines to prevent vapour lock. On a turbo motor like the Rb26 I can't see it doing much at all, when on boost even less.

thanks guys, I was tempted to cold chisel it off but common sense prevailed (only just).

There is my old one and a few others since. the time slip is on the 'second post'. here you are. http://forums.skylinesdownunder.co.nz/atta...=&postid=189495 As for the 'proven' part, I think you will find a few veteran SAU WA members who were present on the nights I ran those times. I ran 13.4's / 13.5's quite consistantly.

Just fitted two of the Trust pulleys without issue. I knew the alternator pulley nut would be a bastard got the alternator out and have had a few goes getting the thing to budge no luck. Anyone know of any tricks to get it off?

A common misconception. There is some 'rubbish' that goes around about a 'huge' pressure drop, it is just that 'rubbish'. When the total airflow required to generate a certain power is below the flow capabilities of the factory cooler you are fine. Above that flow amount you experience unreasonable restrictions. Factory turbo's don't have the guts to really out flow the little intercooler, thats not to say a better design won't flow more efficiently and yeild better power. You need to turf the factory unit when going to a higher power turbo setup for sure. you can run 12-13psi without issue.

Lets keep the personal attacks out of the thread guys. I think in the interest of diplomacy and maintaining a good forum the guys doing the mud slinging from both sides should delete their posts that contain nothing but 'hate mail'.

Hi Coupe-This, The PFC is a better choice first off. Correct those AFR's and ignition map and you will find some good mid range power to play with. Before the FMIC I'd have a lightweight flywheel on the list and an adjustable exhaust cam gear, both cost less and together will yeild a greater performance gain. As for the POD filter, forget it for now it's a waste of money for no gain in power (you can go backwards). The panel filter is just as good in terms of the flow you will need and the factory airbox has a cold air feed already. You will find 10 to 12psi of boost will work fine to get you to a low 13, without a fmic.

Ahh...yes. Now you see the light. But what about the cement filled boot? You still have much to learn grasshopper.