rev210

Hi pete, There is an oil cooler and filter relotaion kit waiting to go in (maybe today) to get some of the heat out of the motor and help it live a little longer. It's a nice kit only $600 or so new with stainless braided lines and 15 row oil cooler.

The Mobil fuel sold in WA is ordinary premium unleaded. It is crap. The only fuel to buy in WA is BP ultimate 98, even if I had the choice I'd still by it over the others based on it working better. Makes the choice very simple.

Modified -- 1991 R32 australian version ecu. Modified in Australia by Interactive Design, speed cut removed. $400. Standard R32 GTR cams and cam gears Only $200!!! in good nik. PM if interested.

driver, front pipes and 3 inch exhaust, Power FC, Tomei 260deg 9.15mm lift cams, 10/11psi of boost, Blitz pods (although they are sucking hot air at the moment). Although it doesn't alter the dyno reading the car has also got lightweight Trust pulleys and has had the belt driven fan replaced with a 16inch electric thermo fan. The factory engine and turbos have done over 236,000kms, so it's pretty good for a grandad engine.

It's not the Pro version.

The retarding of the cam gear will do a couple of things. First your peak power may be a a little lower, this is why people complain about no gains they are looking at the peak power dyno reading. However the boost comes on a tad sooner and the power across the boost range bar the very top end is up usually 10hp or so. Bottom line is you will have a quicker car at the end of the tune. The guy without the cam gear might beat you in a dyno comp but, you kick his ass everywhere else that actually matters. As mentioned you need to retune the car and focus on the mid range power timing and fuel maps.

Do a search for a link to the factory specs on the turbo's. You will find that with exception to the N1's the stockers are all ballbearing. The performance exceptions as follows: BNR32 (NISMO)......Serial No. 14411-06U00 (F/M273 deg. plain thrust bearing centre) T04B Compressor with a 0.42 A/R and 62T T25 Turbine with a 0.64 A/R and CD79 BCNR33 (N1)......Serial No. 14411-24U10 (F/M360 deg. plain thrust bearing centre) T3 Compressor with a 0.42 A/R and 55T T25 Turbine with a 0.64 A/R and 62T BNR34 ......Serial No. 14411-AA300 (Ball bearing centre) C100 Compressor with a 0.53 A/R and 50T T25 Turbine with a 0.48 A/R and 62T BNR34 (N1)......Serial No. 14411-AA401 (Ball bearing centre) BNR34 (N1)......Serial No. 14411-AA402 (Ball bearing centre) BNR34 (N1)......Serial No. 14411-AA403 (Ball bearing centre) C106 Compressor with a 0.60 A/R and 55T GT25 Turbine with a 0.64 A/R and 62T

leave it black, it works better heat wise by a few degrees and keeps the cops away. that hybrid is no better than factory.The terms 'cheap alternative' and GTR don't go together very well most of the time. I'd say a cheap alternative is a 600x300x110mm trust intercooler for when you upgrade the stock turbos to some 2530's. Then you can add some injectors, Power FC, bigger fuel pump,better clutch and start saving for the rebuild that will be coming sooner rather than later once you go for the extra power with an old motor. Having said that I think if you would like a nice looking shiny intercooler there is nothing stopping you from getting the factory one polished. That is a cheap alternative my friend.

the 'jetro' version of the power FC does map. I wouldn't think there was any point since the airflow meters are more accurate, appart from the fact that you may need to upgrade the size of them to something bigger. The move to map from airflow meter would be worth considering if you are planning on a 1000hp+ engine I guess.

No actually all the factory run of the mill gtr turbo's (including R32 & R33) are ball bearing and have ceramic exhaust wheels, the R32 and R33 N1 / group A turbos are however non ball bearing but have the metal exhaust wheels. The R34 N1 turbo's are both ball bearing and have metal exhaust wheels.

Datalogit worked no problem'o. Must have been a newer version of the software Gav. It's all good, thanks for the ecu by the way mate

Dan, yeah the factory boost controller did a reasonable job at the boost it was always meant to run. EVL 33, your not using the PFC boost control kit are you? , if so that would explain things.

A set of R32 GTR cams and cam gears in good condition. $200 for both. Located in Perth can organise freight interstate at buyers expense.

I think you mean he torque's more

But, I don't find Paul attractive?

steel wheels are only on the N1, you got ceramic.

Thanks to boys at Hyperdrive for their help on the Power FC and cam tune yesterday. The grandad of all Rb26's is making a good power now without much boost, timing, agressive afr's or revs needed. Just what I wanted. I will probably get asked for a printout since rev210 visits the dyno as often as the Pope dances the cha cha. so here it is...

proengines, I think you will find no one just 'slaps' cams in. Didn't you properly measure your cam install? You can spend quite some time altering the cam timing to yeild different power characteristics. Different turbo's / boost etc. all affect the relationship with cam timing and power curve.

Just to add to the thread a bit more. I just had a tune on my old bunky with the tomei cams. Got rid of the breakdown issue ala plug change and gapped to 0.7mm. Cam timing wise we tried a couple of settings ultimately settled on 4deg & 8 deg retard . The tune was nice and conservative on fuel and igntion to allow the very old motor to avoid too much stress. The boost was onyl 10/11 psi or 0.8 bar. Both my AFM's need a good clean as there is a nice difference between them reading wise on idle.

I might get the dremel out and take to that metal lip, What do other people think I mean its pretty obvious it's a restriction and the way the pipe is just bunged on looks like they did it that way to save time.

I reckon yellow space saver wheels all round.

do they have wings?

It doesn't suprise me. What you mean is they don't replace that pipe right? I can't really understand why you would re-make what seems like a mistake in design.

People have been mucking around with them for some time. Here's an example with a modification of the 'twin turbo' pipe that yeilds a very good result on track cars worth 20ps on a N1 equiped gtr apparently.

One word.....plugs. I had a dinner cancellation and I thought " I'll just nick off to the drags, my plugs are a bit sick but surely a few runs will clean them out....." I ran 3 times and went home. Each time it got worse. The first run was a terrible 13.2 (spark giving out under load above 4500rpm) and the second and third were a joke. The Tomei cams rough idle mixtures pretty much killed the plugs in a few weeks of everyday around town driving. I ripped the stupid irridium plugs out (the previous owner put them in) last night and put some old NGK coppers in, good as new (for now). The Power FC goes in on thursday and Lumpy is giving it a tune so the mixture issue will be resolved. I'll go down again when I can, knocking a second and a bit off that time will be very easy.