rev210

GTR32, The cracking of the metal generally occurs when you have uneven wrapping of the pipe. It's easy to avoid. 1/4 of an inch overlap on the tape and a prespray (and properly cure) the pipes with VHT (White) flameproof paint (it is ceramic based pigment, the other colours are not).

I'd agree that if an assesor wasn't sent it might be a very small repair,however we just had an example of how HBF didn't send one for a $7k repair. I spoke to thier head office at all levels and they have a basic 'back end' issues. Their right hand has no idea what the left is doing. I was right from the begining and they agreed I was and performed the repair, after 7 months...... As for their success as an organisation in this area, well thats just business, they advertise more and cut back on the larger overheads like assesors and making sure claims are propperly delt with. My case tested them very well and when push comes to shove they are hopeless. HBF are in the insurance game and the bottomn line is they have strategies built around increasing their insured base vs claims costs, the funny thing is they are supposed to be a non-profit organisation with a member focus and appart from friendly people speaking to you on the phone there is no tangible evidence I've seen of them doing this. To top it all off the idiots continued to renew my insurance after I had sold the car and I had advised them by phone that I was not renewing when I recieved my notice. I had sold that car and bought my GTR. The best part is they won't refund my money till I have presented them with evidence that I had sold my car, you see they believe I am lying about it, appartently I must still be driving around in my old R33 gtst. Don't mind waiting 7 months for your car to be repaired ? Want cheap coverage? Go to HBF! Look at their adds. A stuffed toy repairs you car. Stuffed bear and stuffed insurance coverage.

The problem actually had little or nothing to do with the repairer. The HBF 'contract' assesor made decisions about saving money that were non-professional. Insurers are onbligated under certain circumstances to provide new parts to ensure the car is safe and roadworthy. I have had no problems with other car insurance companies, their assesors are at least looking at ensuring the repair is 'safe' and reliable. The fact that HBF has been known not to even send an assesor speaks for their incompetence.

personal taste. and rubbish.

4bella, no.

R32 GTR factory cams and cam gears $200 PM for details

Hi, The first part of my post reffers to my care factor about the fuel ecconomy, thanks for the concern tho'. When you own a GTR I think fuel ecconomy has to be very low on the priority. My car is used for work and does 30,000kms+/year but, it's expenses (inc. fuel) are paid by a car allowance. If I cared about fuel ecconmony I would have bought a scooter.

Ronin 09, I had several runs when I was tuning the car with the cams and PowerFC. I only kept the last one, the others showed different power curves based on moving the cam timing around. I didn't do a dyno run when the car was stock as it would have been a waste of money, I installed the cams myself in the shed and it had a stock ecu at the time so no point tuning at that stage. Having said that the power increase was already very noticable. I am afraid that I don't often take my cars to the dyno for a run. I am take them for fine tuning and when I do and I am looking at improving the power curve the day of the tune (to me it's all relative). I think there might be some before and after tomei cams dyno's on the UK GTR forums from memory.

eXc, The difference is more often than not just the sound. The operation of the valve can differ but, ultimately achieves the same result.

You have a factory BOV, it's a good one. It can hold plenty of boost , more than your proably ever going to run and certainly way more than the factory turbo can throw at it. If you decide to run huge boost 30psi, you can easily modify the BOV to hold it. you can tell the factory one is working on the stock ecu because your car runs and idles, it's that simple. You will certainly notice if it fails. There you go money saved. Now you can spend it on something else

cheers duncan. any other type of centre fit the rear R32 GTR other than R32 gts4?

Sorry mate but, I have to rant here. HBF have no idea what a quality repair is believe me I know. They don't supervise the repair at all. They send an assesor out, he screws the repairer down usually on the quality of the repair materials used, approve the claim and walk away. Good if you break an indicator lense, bad if you have major panel work and engine repairs. You might get your car back in two weeks ( I would have ) but, you'll have more bog than metal in your car and be worse off than you started with the mechanicals. I had choice of repairer also, infact my brother worked at the shop. What they attempted to do to me they would have got away with if it wasn't for the fact that I am not the average customer. I actually have a technical understanding. I would find it hard to believe the repair you got was with anything but second hand parts and lots of bog knowing HBF. I got mine repaired the way I wanted too , only after pointing out the legal position they were in and after an independent engineers report. If anyone is prepared to do what I did for a claim to be propperly repaired go HBF, you will get what you pay for.

DON'T!!!!! The insurance policy is not worth poo. They took over 6 months to get my car back on the road. I had to argue with them to get the repair done properly. After selling my car they continued to direct debit my bank account for several months and then had the gall to ask me to prove I had sold the car! They might be cheap but, their insurance is worse than paying for repairs yourself, at least you don't have to wait 6 months.

PowerFC is better 20x20 map 32 bit ecu and it's not a piggy back.

As people have come to expect form me now I will tell you that the money is better spent elsewhere if you are after performance. The BOV modification offers NO advantage in performance terms. You will find no one providing you with conclusive dyno or timed improvements. The only test I've come across is a dyno test of various makes including the stock one where by none of the aftermarket units improved power or boost holding at all, no suprises there. Improvements are made in attracting cops and getting defects however. In terms of improved performance in that area they aren't a waste of money.

a Kaaz diff? Can you buy them with different ratio ring and pinion gears already fitted?

I am presently considering how to go about changing the diff ratio in the R32 GTR from the 4.11 to 4.375. Don't care for the top end or fuel ecconomy it's a work car. I am aware that the front and rear diffs need to be swapped and I am wondering about the easiest way to go about getting it all happening. I have heard that diff centers from various skylines are compatible I'd like to know from people exactly which ones are bolt in. Also from another angle how hard the ring and pinion are to change and what centres are compatible there.

I'm sure you have explained your plan to her in detail

18psi !!! I know the turbo's love it up there in the danger zone power wise but, damn steve you should go get lotto tickets mate

Duncan, yep I know. I might even have to buy both the centres second hand, having spares is not a bad thing when it comes to diffs.

a bad tradesman always blames his tools. The design of the malpassi has nothing wrong with it. The Application is always the reason it doesn't work the way it is supposed to. I'm sure the people who have owned and correctly used the malpassi can guide you to a solution where this brand of regulator works perfectly, should you find another one lying around. There are of course larger capacity regs in other brands if you need something that will flow a larger volume of fuel.

Just wondering if there is anyone with an R32 gts4 who would like to swap diffs with my R32 GTR. I am after the 4.375 ratio's instead of the 4.11 ratio. The 4.11 ratio is better for fuel ecconomy and cruising but, since I don't care a great deal bout fuel ecconomy (thanks to my car allowance) I thought a 4.375 ratio would be a little more fun. I'm not entirely sure but I think the stagea's and others also run 4.375 ratio diffs, question is whether its a bolt in.

Malpassi work well if kept away from strong sources of heat like an exhaust manifold.

Hi Pete, The oil cooler is one I bought from Sal at 'Shift' over east ( one of the SAU advertised sponsors ). Worked out to around $625 delivered. So far the only measure of how tired the motor is is the kms. I haven't got around to measure the compression yet. Oil pressure is normal. I am going to try and get to the christmas bash but, this week is a killer for me work wise so I won't know till very close to the day. Steve, I reckon Aidwin secretly wants to kill his turbo's tho so he has a good excuse to get bigger ones I bet

BP98 has handed a beating to Synergy 8000 and Optimax in every fuel comparision I have seen based on power. Most dyno comps pick it as a standard due mostly to the fact that it works better.