rev210

easy way to fix cavitation is to run a reduction pulley on the water pump, it has the same drawbacks as the N1 pump from a traffic driving point of view, costs less to make a custom one than an N1 pump and the pulley is easy to change (4 bolts) if you want to switch them over for road use again (15min job) * assumes you have an electric thermo fan replacing the stock clutch fan.

See if you can answer this multiple choice question. the 'flame thrower' has; a) been around for a very long time B) burnt plenty of people c) increased police revenue d) made people mildly more amused than igniting one's own farts with a lighter e) identified it's owners with the colapse of the mental health system f) all of the above.

Hi pulp, Do you want to go faster or just have a 250rwhp dyno to brag about? If the answer is faster; * S-afc II is a good move. Buy one second hand for around $400 + $100 to tune.You can turb around and get most of your money back if and when you need a PFC. * Manual bleeder boost controller. Nothing wrong with them for a factory turbo. Don't waste money on an electronic one. Aim to make good power at around 10-12psi, this is enough on the factory turbo to get you a low 13. * Consider the front mount upgrade carefully. Pick the correct size based on your final application. If you are going to be happy with the factory turbo then reconsider getting one, it won't stop you doing low 13 quarter mile passes. As a note consider how many people can't go that quick with a front mount on the stock turbo (there are reasons why). * exhaust improvements are a great idea. go for it. Other things to consider... Pineapples $100 and gets you more traction. Adjustable exhaust cam gear. Retarding the timing on the exhaust cam nets you some earlier boost and about 10hp right through the power band. $200 DIY. Lightweight flywheel (assuming you don't have an auto) .Along with an upgraded clutch this is worth putting in to experience increased acceleration (I gained almost half a second drop over the 1/4). The forced induction section has plenty of good info so you don't have to reinvent the wheel. Learn a little and you won't become a 'bolt on boy'. Instead you go faster for less effort. It's fairly easy and cheap to get low 13's out of an R33 gtst, you just need a little 'good' information. There is plenty around.

my r32 gtr has around 240,000kms on the motor, it's pretty stockish. It has had a modest power increase over factory however the improvements I have had done aim at reducing the revs and boost required to make the same power as factory. This still means my engine will now not last as long as if I had left it alone under the same servicing regime. Basically the more power you have and use regularly the quicker you will need at least a bearing / compression ring etc. rebuild. The concept that a worked engine (say race spec) is going to last as long as a stock engine with the power being utilised is for dreamers with no money. If you have no money then drugs, gambling and performance vehilces are a sure way to increase your risk of spiraling debt and depression. Have a nice day.

You need to set up a little model of scarborough beach car park in there with a minature datto 1600 that does burnouts every hour so he knows what time it is, he can't read a clock yet

I didn't see the tv thingo. If he didn't stand on it till the tyres blew up then I reckon thats hardly thrashing it, I'm guessing the car didn't even do a good burnout. But as often as I hear the comments about how people "wouldn't buy that car because I saw the owner do a burnout...." I am reminded of how we can all be quite hypocritical in this situation. I've caught myself a few times. I sold a gtst that on top of going to the drags (worse than a burnout) ran a nitrous kit that I used. The owner knew about what I did to the car and dispite the abuse it was in great nik. R34, I think you could have said the same about the dearly departed 'buffy' before mike bought it. What was the nick name again buffy the comodore slayer? Mik ended up buying a great car, granted it would have been better value if an old granny had owned it but, not by much. Skylines can take it without stressing too much. The tv coverage is great for any prospective owner, since it was seen by so many people there is no mistaking the kind of activities this car was made and used for when the owner comes to making a decision of purchase. I think a video record of a cars life is a great idea. What would your cars video be rated? G for general veiwing or MA for mature audiences only?

Don't tell me you wouldn't if you had the chance Tolley drives rally cars, I think he maybe doesn't feel at home unless there is some sort of wheel spin

I didn't post the cam lift as it is identical. I posted the timing as I thought you already knew the valve timing for the R32 since the R34 is slightly different, although not in a way that would benifit power. To save you some time the lift is the same based on cam specs @ seat to seat Int Lift @ Valve: 8.58mm Exh Lift @ Valve: 8.28mm For both R32 gtr and R34 gtr. Thats why people sell their R34 N1 spec cams and upgrade them to aftermarket 9mm lift units. The cam gear is a good way to go, who needs pretty ones when the cam gear cover hides them, nothing like mates rates Most people have found the R32 cams like 2 degrees advance and 4 degrees or retard timing wise as a base for stock turbo's. Things would vary a bit based on different turbo's and boost for these settings I'd imagine.

Thats cheap for a set of new cams. However there is no gain to be had over what you have now. The valve timing is the same for both the N1 & standard R34 gtr. In opens 3BTDC, closes 57ABDC Ex opens 59BBDC, closes 3BTDC As you can see with the same lift as the R32 cams there is nothing that makes the effort worthwhile from a power perspective. For the same money you could just buy a couple of adjustable cam gears bolt them on the stock cams, and then you will be able to gain some real power in about an hour or work. Hope that saves you some time.

paint it black. The theory is sound and so is a simple test with an optical pyrometer or ambient and post intercooler temp measurement. It's a few degrees cooler and that's real world.

I fitted R34 GTR cams (tomei 260deg 9mm lift) to my R32 gtr. Yep the input to the CAS is different and you need to modify the CAS to make the exhaust cam fit into it. Unless you are a fearless / foolish shed mechanic with a little bit of skill (or is that luck) like me don't try it or you will not like the costs you will incur from the damage it might cause. As for factory spec R34 cams.... what a monumental waste of time, not to mention you could be quite unlucky with the shims side of things and that will cost you too. No gains at all is my bet. The words cheap and cam upgrade are not often used together. R34 turbo's are certainly an 'upgrade' the cams are not.

Frank jr, is not that tall and has errr... little or no hair on his head in a most stylish way He is more of a family man, like me.

They still have the cannington auto wholesale (not to be confused with cannington auto -house ) place down the road in cannington going towards kenwick on albany hwy.

Yes. Frank Bempasciuto . I've known Frank jr for along time he's a top bloke.

If the factory dump pipes are propperly port matched to the exhaust outlet of the turbo, it isn't so bad. However the ones I have seen are shocking. If there is poor matching of the outlet and dump then you have a significant restriction worth removing.

I did. She said she felt so unique to be the only paraplegic cancer victim with downs to drive an NA skyline with a nitrous kit. Not to mention she felt alot smarter than a person who thinks they can go faster for the same money on a turbo upgrade. You mentioned earlier how you poo yourself over a possible engine melt down every time you are in a car with the nitrous activated. I say for people like yourself you need to try a tenalady sanitary nappy and enjoy the ride in comfort. Even with a years supply of those in addition to nitrous refills its great bang for buck. Not to mention the extra compost for the garden you collect.

damono, depends on the size of the shot.

Tank fills for a 10lb bottle are around $100, Chris Mills do them so do some others around the traps.

JCMarshal_Law, mattysaidso, said 'boost leak at idle'. It actually doesn't matter.

A couple of things... Boost leak at idle? You have to get past the whole 'leak' term it's actually a metered air bleed. It's not an accident it's a design and it's a good one. It does not cause boost fluctuations or prevent holding boost. Nothing is 'lost' it all gets put into the motor one way or another. As for venting to atmo. It isn't something that can be done easily. Blocking the small hole is only part of the issue, you then have to re-spring the valve is my guess (ideal is an adjustment screw for the spring tension to get it right) plus you will need to have a s-afc or something to deal with the ecu compensation for the recirculated air it's not getting. Buy an aftermarket one if you must have the sound. As someone mentioned even the addtion of a pod filter will increase this noise a great deal. But, if you like to muck around I say go for it. You can learn things that way too.

I was running about 150hp shot.

Mirkz, You don't need an ecu upgrade.The tuning of the nitrous is independent for the most part. Send me a PM when you get sick of misinformation on the topic, I'll be happy to give you some info so you can make an informed choice.

Block adaptor?

Pat at what is now called mettams mufflers (formerly quick fit morley) does great work like many guys I know I've delt with him for years on all sorts of vehicles. His prices are great and the workmanship is fantastic.