rev210

Paul, It's a shame I missed the dyno day on sunday. I only just finished on the sunday night. I thought two afternoons of work was pretty good going by myself in the dodgy dave shed workshop .I did have the dyno comp in the back of my mind. I think the gains will be quite substancial in your case. I have only got standard turbo's and you can still tell the decrease in restiction at the valves is huge at even modest rpm and throttle.

I put my cams in last night without a shim, checked clearences (spot on). My engine has more than 230,000kms as well (engine well serviced). Go Tomei poncams!!! Base circle diameter is the same on both the factory cam and the tomei replacement this is the ONLY factor. If you need shims for the tomei you would have/should have needed them for the factory cams. The 260deg 9.15mm lift units are mint !

Pete, Great time mate! Way to back up those dyno mnumbers. I've just installed my Tomei cams tonite. They Rock!

Just installed a set of Tomei 260deg 9.15mm lift cams into the old aussi R32 GTR today. What a difference! I have dialed them in at 0 deg to start.There is a little bit more growl in the idle and once the accellerator is fed at any rev over 3000rpm there is an awsome responce improvement over factory. I have to say installing GTR cams is pretty easy. Having said that mine were R34 cams and I had to modify the CAS input to suit the exhaust cam's key (easy, sort of).This is also a way of instantly knowing if you have R34GTR cams when trying to do a Rb20 cam upgrade (basically without a modified CAS you can't use a set of R34GTR units).The great thing is the Tomei Poncams don't need any shims !!!! Have yet to dyno ( I have a power FC pro waiting to go in) but It will be interesting to see the torque improvement considering I have factory turbos and most don't bother doing cams untill they upgrade everthing else. If anyone 'has' installed these cams on factory turbo equiped Rb26dett then I'd be interested in the results. BTW I will have a pair of factory R32 GTR cams and gears for sale soon

I'd say I am taking a side of the fence opposite to yours on this one. I'd take your money on a bet that VW has more sense than to piss millions up the wall when their shareholders aren't real happy about the situation. To release the car under the 'Veyron' badge now would just ask for a share price drop. As an investor I'd be rather concerned that one of the new 'mega rich' owners might have an accident and his army of lawyers would have little problems bringing a massive law suit against the company not to mention the bad press if the Veyron actually killed a well known rich bastard. Take the engine out. Put it in something not made by Bugatti. We put the 'BUG' in BUG-atti.

Easy to tell if you will just check the mph. It's a long way from 14.5 to a low 13, none the less you have a car worthy of the 'sleeper' title.

14.5 is pretty good. Definately a sleeper. Bit more boost and a good launch should get you a low 14 no problem.

I welcome this thread to last year. Bugatti can't make it work. I heard they have trashed plenty of engines and driveline componets and can't make it reliable enough to provide any kind of warranty. It's ugly as sin too. It's not going to be sold EVER. The Chiron is the one to watch concept car wise in their line up.

Have you run it down the plex? Should give a few people a laugh.

The front setup is the problem. The rear setup being hard is not a real problem in your case. The diff cradle pineapples will improve things quite alot, if you don't already have them.

I would consider the application. If your 6ft+ or a bit of a fat ass, forget the silvia (like it's name implies it's for little people with girlish frames). The R32 is larger, the R33 larger and more comfortable again. The S13 is a fast little car out of the box, with some mucking around and small number of mods they are capable of low 13's, without major upgrades. The R33 and R32's have been known to go just as fast in a straight line with similar mods and the R33 is the quickest of the lot with a stock turbo equiped unit able to grab 12's. If the option is there for a GTS4 turbo that would be an easy pick, you have a GTR's running gear minus the engine. A great starting point.

The last price I got was approximately 1400-1500 pounds from ctgltd in the UK.

These guys can do one for you. http://www.ctgltd.co.uk/motorsport.php Or these guys...(probably better since the Dollar conversion works better for us). Ask them about a group buy discount. http://www.acpt.com/

The wet kit is the go. When deciding what sort of power shot you want to eventually use you need to set a total limit of horsepower based on what the engine can sustain comfortably. This is irrespective of nitrous or turbo upgrade. 75hp shot is not your limit necessarily, it is a starting point. If you believe the standard RB20 internals can handle a power upgrade to 350rwhp (I seem to recall this somewhere but, just take it as an example only). At present you have 170rwhp minus this from the 350rwhp and you have room for another 180rwhp. If you decide the extra power will be added via a nitrous kit then you can use a shot of upto 180rwhp extra. To provide for this power you will need to upgrade the fuel pump system to provide the total fuel fow equivalent to this power level. A simple way to do this is to obtain a big bosch fuel pump (around $300 or so for something that can flow 500+hp worth of fuel). A clutch upgrade will be needed at some stage if you want a great increase over stock power. Other than that a colder range of plug , a few degrees of base timing retarded and off you go. It's a very cheap way to have that sort of power level. No ecu upgrade, no boost controler, no injectors etc... Info wise there are a couple of us that have 'hands on' experience with settig up our own nitrous kits. 2rismo, has had fun getting his stock turbo'd gtst into 11's with nitorus, check the 'drag/drift' section. To get the good times after the power is there you need to have traction. So 'pineapples' for the diff cradle and some nice wide sticky rubber for the back. 11's can be yours with a little mucking around.

'Rice' is the opposite of 'sleeper'. Sleeper -- looks slow goes quick Rice -- looks well errr... tries to look fast goes slow.

the 260deg poncams have 9.15mm of lift. I'd say they are a good option, you will have plenty more airflow room at 4000rpm onwards. You want the turbo's to come in 'faster' ie; take less 'time' to hit power. This is appart from the rpm issue. Things like a set of lightened greddy pulleys and the replacement of the factory fan with a davies craig 16inch thermo will reduce the 'time' for the engine to reach revs. As will a good lightweight flywheel and even (if you have $4k or so) a single peice carbon fibre tail shaft (they weight about half the factory one). A higher flowing intercooler might be the go as well.

It might do a high 13 all things being equal on a good day. At the moment it is in a reasonable state of tune, I spent all last week fixing things on it. For the previous six months it was without the use of the secondaries on the carby (the wife and kids drive around in it so they didn't mind). I have a 294 duration big lift cam sitting in the shed at the moment that along with a 2000-2500rpm or so high stall and some mucking around might get it into low 13's. But... I shouldn't go doing things like that when I have an R32 GTR to spend money on.

plenty of cars have been owned by the volvo. Plenty of cars have beaten it too, they just can't brag about it.

a sleeper... Volvo station wagon. (no expectation of 'go' from one of these). Worked 5L V8 , forgies, roller rockers , head work, manifold, cam, Tricked up auto with shift kit and B&M quickshifter, 3.25 Dana 30 LSD diff.. blah blah blah. There is a silver/blue volvo sedan over here that has a very warm chev in it and it runs 12.2 second quater miles, in street trim.

more boost.

The 1/4 mile is a measurement for accelleration. The dyno a tuning tool that measures horsepower. I wouldn't call the drag strip a better power calculator than a dyno, you have to do more measurements and calcualtions to provide accurate data. hello silly thread

nv033, The person who told you is missinformed....errrr spinning sh*t actually. I owned the nitrous kit (parts of) that the car now runs before 2rismo bought the kit and I can tell you that my old GTS-T was quicker than my R32 gtr is once the gas was on. If you look at his times without gas they are on par with what some of the gtst stocker turbo owners have been getting with good tyres. I ran low 13's in my old gtst without gas, so the times are ok. He is contributing to the knowledge base by recording his efforts for everyones benifit. He hasn't needed to go to boost over 13 psi because nitrous does the extra shove. With conservative boost there is no reason to 'need' a steel exhaust wheel in your turbo.

oooops did I just dig up a grave?

I think 'dyno rice' is when you have a guy talking about how his car is going to do this or that time at the drags, whilst waving a dyno sheet around as if it has determined it all by itself. These people are consistantly a pain always have been, it's not a new thing. Other than that you can't say dyno's are a rice device because they really have a practical use.

Just thought a few people might like to go down to the Monkey Bar tonight 8pm for the Final of the Miss Indy Competition and cheer on our local girls. As part of my Job I have to be involved and invite clients / appoint a judge (sorry that place is full ). Monkey bar is on Murray st from memory. 8pm the event starts. late notice but what the hey