rev210

Thats the way adrian! I'm thinking of nitrous for the GTR now. I'd imagine a 150hp shot would go very nicely towards a 10 second pass on standard turbo's.

I'd go a K&N or a pipercross filter over the apexi , since they can be reused and cleaned properly.

Anyone got a lightweight flywheel? Hmmm strange it doesn't seem to add any horespower yet you drop almost half a second off your 1/4 mile with one..... Driver skill? Well maybe you could call it that but, a 2.3 60ft isn't a skilled launch. Your car makes 180rwkw on the dyno? Good for you! It might not make that power when actually pushing through the wind on a real road. Some do the dynos with the bonnet 'up' and people putting water and friken dry ice on the intercooler . It's been said before and it will probably get said again. Dyno's are only a tuning tool. They are not the only tool. The people who think they are have forgotten to count themselves.

Rob, Thats a bloody good power band. At 4500rpm your making 223rwkw and it keeps nice and fat up top too. I'd say with a set of cams in that power band will look even meaner. Give me a go at it next time at the drags mate and I'll get the bastard to do a mid 11 for ya

redline2003, you'd think that but you'd be wrong. Dynos don't simulate the airflow whislt driving along blah blah blah. It's generally not 5% It's generally less than the error margin %.

Interesting..... Are you threatening someone BOBO? what did they do to you? I personally don't believe those rumours about you being a communist Good to see you have the car back and running (finally) Rob. I think you have had that car off the road longer than you have driven it mate.

My advice on filter selection is to spend very little money on it. $100 is about all you should spend. The K&N panel element works well enough. The factory paper filter flows ok when clean. The 'real' difference in power is SFA. If you feel good about spending $400 for a maximum of 2-3hp at the engine knock yourself out.

You'd think that but you'd be wrong. I did a 13.3 with 235 rwhp with a 60ft of 2.3 (205 tyres) . If the car gets a 2.1 or better 60ft time... do the math. The last dyno the car had after an engine rebuild befre the new owner took it was 240 rwhp , I assure you high 12's will be not be a struggle for it even with a 2.3 60ft. I also didn't mention that I have a 4.8kg flywheel which does absolutely nothing to the power figure but, did drop the time of the car by about half a second over the 1/4 mile. I also didn't mention the fact that the engine made 235rwhp at only 4500rpm but, due to a tuning issue didn't make any more power above that rpm. There is more to going quick than being a 'dyno queen'.

About 200 horespower at the tyres will do it. 235 horses will get you a high 12 provided you get a 2.1 or better 60ft. Driver skill at the drags = drinking a beer without spilling it levels of coordination and technique (when sober). 220rwkw = 13.47 , the dyno printout it looks like its sorbent brand.

forget the pipe collapsing issue for a moment (it does happen, possibly due to the rubber getting old). The extra power I mention is to do with the airlow restriction the factory unit has vs a good replacement pipe, on a stock turbo at factory levels of boost. More power is at stake when you up the base performance.

As long as the dunp pipe is not cast iron, you can wrap it. Make sure you do it evenly and pre-spray it with exhaust paint let set and then wrap. Prevents issues with corrosion.

On the R33 gtst the spiral rubber tube is very similar to the VL turbo unit. If you bin it and replace it with a metal or PVC pipe (cheaper) you may expect 7hp+ gain on the factory turbo. Thats more power than from upgrading the airfilter. The metal spiral is to help stop the pipe from colapsing, the rasied bumpy ridges that go with them are to allow for pipe flex movement and they are the part of the design that sucks or should I say prevents suck. PVC pipe and a heat gun and some rubber elbows will do the job.

Probably that you are intelligent puts them off more, they are unable to spin you a load of crap about their car.

Some of the quick cars in japan do use Nitrous. Others don't. Specifically I'm sure the info on each car you are interested in is around. Getting the times down is whats important.I think there is a naturally aspirated 300zx that runs 8 second passes using a big hit of gas from memory. Often people who don't know a great deal about drag racing (or nitrous use) think nitrous use is 'cheating' in drag racing events. It's not if the category of racing allows for it's use (most do).If the HKS Drag racing team decided to opt for a shot of gas and got their time to a new record , the record would stand whether nitrous assisted or not. Last I checked there wasn't a category called 'using only the parts you make in your aftermarket factory ' category, maybe they should make one up?

1) look at how many kms the car has already done. 2) Check all the components that will be reasonably knackered by the kms they have done. 3) save to replace them when they fail (and they will). I reckon you won't have too much change from the $6k over the next two years from just ordinary replacement of worn parts. Make more power = motor doesn't last as long (it's a kind of law of engines). On a very worn motor this means you will have months of enjoyment before a rebuild as opposed to years (maybe) if you go leaning out the AFR's and turning up the boost. I'm in the same boat since my good old RB26 has done over 230,000kms. Out of respect I'm trying very hard not to be tempted into increasing it's power (i was naughty and bolted an adjustable cam gear on though). Instead I'm going to do a few little things like a lightweight flywheel to improve the accelleration without further stressing the old motor (and save for a rebuild). Generally RB26 engines go 100,000kms and then shortly afterwards need a rebuild, mines been very well looked after but, I expect it to die any moment.

Pretty cheap price for what you are getting. The turbo might be needing a rebuild but the exhaust manifolds alone are worth a fair bit. A rebuild on the TD06 should be around $1k or even less if it's knackered, you come out on top.

The plugs just get dirty very quickly. You might try a larger plug gap when running toluene mixtures or just keep the revs right up, since the lower revs tends to be where the fouling occurs. you need to add more timing and decrease the AFR too.

On the short shifter. The short shifter only presents a wear issue due to overselection that doesn't occur unless you rest your hand on the shifter whilst driving along (a stupid thing to do regardless of a short shifter) and 'ramming' the gear selection with Arnie-like power. Other than that there is no difference to a normal shifter and the kind of oil you run.

Mate just go get a guage and make sure. I guess for the saving of $20 odd you can take the risk that you might lean out your nice new $5k rebuild.

get a guage. you need one and they are cheap ($20 odd)

adrian, True it is quite a way from 11.9 to 10.999, so you'll just have to keep throwing more gas at the problem till you get there

true, if you don't have front runners on you can't drive around very easy. You can also put them on your old trailer for runs to the tip

It makes the dealer sound as if they have something to hide. If it makes you the customer more confident in making the purchase why wouldn't they let you do it? The best response is to say to them " I'm not even going to consider buying this car unless you allow an inspection " They have nothing to lose except the sale if they refuse. I'm sure there are plenty of other places that will be happy to comply with your wishes. Sure inspections don't always turn up every problem with a car but, if you are not able to do it yourself then they are much better than nothing. Remember you are buying second hand performance vehicles here. Bad luck is reality.

yes Mickey T ET's are street tyres

obviously you have an aftermarket turbo to be getting 312rwhp Abo Bob. 13.6 doesn't reflect 312rwhp. It's more indicative of 220rwhp.