rev210

Don't do either! just very lightly spray the cooler black with engine paint. the other methods reduce heat transfer.

There is also a kind of scorn reserved for those who do the twin system exhausts etc. to stock holden sixes and other non-asian made cars. It is the same illness that effects the 'rice boy'. The strange desire to put a hornet bonnet scoop (not ducted to the underbonnet) on a 4cyl torana is the very same sickness. It all comes down to the owners firm belief that deep down his/her car is faster for the effort. Beware of playing the same game as the 'trev'. Don't be drawn into a counter culture that likes the 'cheap wine only comes in 5L' stickers. Instead appreciate 'all' performance. It is a truely sad day when the 5L V8 powered whatever kicks your arse whislt you have one of those stickers and believe me there are a few around that WILL kick your arse.

sean, I don't know if you already do this but, if you wait till the last couple of orange lights with the clutch pushed in , when in gear, and mash the go pedal in one hit and as the revs jump to 7000 sidestep the clutch. This works a little better than holding the rev limiter because you get a smallish amount of boost built as the engine experiences light load from accellerating itself. Next step antilag ?

Niz, I thought you were sick of spending money on broken things? I say this because the factory turbo will break sooner rather than later if you run it above 12psi. This is regardless of the FMIC. Also the turbo is capable of it's best performance under 13psi imho. (I say this with several low 13's under my belt with a smidge over 10psi on the old gtst). The boost @ 12psi and the standard intercooler ought not prevent you running a mid 13 pass. I think the best plan of attack is to optimise what you have already before shelling out more money. Go without the boost cut and put that money on an adjustable exhaust cam gear (same price roughly) we can then get the mid range torque up a bit and improve the boost characteristics. cheers Dave

tighten the hell out of them, they are normally high tensile steel bolts and don't break easy (the allen key will tho'). I don't use loctite on that sort of thing, however if you'd like to be sure go ahead.

cameron, quit while your ahead.

cameron, If you had too much timing it still kills the engine. What gets me is that you'd even registered a 30:1 AF ratio on a dyno run! The engine would have pinged its nuts off before you got to that point and damaged said ring lands too more than likely. The tuning killed the engines. I don't understand what you mean about piston number 6 ".... because its at the back it doesnt really start working intill high up in the Rpm rang which is when its really hot ". Sorry dude it sounds like someone gave you the worng info here or perhaps you got confused. As others said the g-reddy plenum has only 1 throttle body. The factory RB26dett has the multiple bodies.

the 427 chev is a big block engine, not a stroked 5.7.

You can't really stop it alltogether but, at a certain angle you are able to tighten the bolts a little part turn at a time, takes a while . Putting a socket and bar on the front pulley is good too but, make sure you check the front pulley torque setting after.

cameron, That pistons ringlands are rooted thanks to poor tuning not 12psi of boost (you can see the marks caused by pinging). I've run 12psi and 150hp shot of nitrous on a standard Rb25det and all my pistons ringlands were 'as new' when I pulled it down.And the bleeder valve held 12psi no problems.

Takakiara, nengun and greenline all are able to provide the factory warranty. So that just leaves the import duty and tax.

jasonO, you are correct. the leaning out of 6 is utter rubbish. The factory plenum is good enough for 600hp engines.

yes thats pretty tight. I think the ogura flywheel on the Rb25 was 115ftlbs

nengun and greenline are the best places to source 'new' turbo's. Last I checked a set of HKS 2530's for a GTR was less than $4k brand new. Nengun can source second hand stuff as well.

Hi, Keep the factory intercooler for now. 1)It is not going to stop you running low 13's on the factory cooler.My old gtst ran low 13's with one. The old car was one of the quicker factory turbo'd gtst's around and ran little 205 tyres too. 2)It won't restrict you to only 10psi of boost. The fragile turbine is what you want to be carefull of, it might not last long over 12psi of boost so keep it to 12 or less. Before shelling out for the fmic consider you won't need it really till you get a bigger turbo in. The extra pipework and cooler size 'may' reduce the engine response even though the power 'might' increase. the AVCR is an expensive controller ,the blitz units are a little better and cheaper too.A bleeder valve will do the job too. The pod filter needs a cold air partition otherwise your sucking hot engine bay air. The factory airbox is a better setup than what you have right now, so fix that. Unique autosports sell a partition box kit from memory or you can make one.

PPG also do a tough as nails gearbox, and they are a local company.

why not post this in the naturally aspirated threads as well? LOL

how about a list of the times the guys and gals ended up with?

non laggy turbo = makes boost at 1500rpm (give this example in refference to an RB25det and I'm sure no one will reffer to this turbo plain bearing or otherwise as 'laggy'). laggy turbo = makes boost at 6500rpm on the same engine. take the 6500rpm spooling turbo, we have two kinds a plain bearing unit and a ballbearing unit. BOTH are laggy compared to the 2000rpm spooling units disscussed, they will both make boost at 6500rpm. the response of the turbo, also closely tied to the volume of air and restriction between it and the motor, is much the same concept used to reffer to engine response generally. For example of lightening the factory flywheel. This will have an effect on the time taken to spool the turbo, thanks to the engine reving faster. I can understand why people might use the terms interchangably al the same.

Ok let me clear up the concept of lag for you then. If the turbo spools at 3500rpm that is the result of the selection and matching of compressor and other components in the turbo to what ever engine it is mated to. One of the advantages of a ballbearing design over a plain bearing turbo is the speed at which the turbo can spool, this is not a difference in lag but, rather the response time. The time taken in seconds or fraction of seconds to reach sufficient shaft speed to produce maximum boost. So.. the reason I ask that you put aside people telling you that the turbo has less lag is because they are not experiencing less lag but, more likely better response. Which is a very good thing too. I would like to see you succeed rather than fail to convince people of the benifits of roil. Quoting from people who don't really know the difference between lag and response is not going to help as much as getting the terminolgy right and doing some propper timed experiments. To test the difference in response time you can add a time log to a power run on the dyno. I'm sure with quite a few people experiencing more response the difference will show up well. It's quite important to get the response claim validated because even if horsepower wasn't increased the increase in response alone is well worth the investment. Its like testing a lightweight flywheel , no power increase but, the increased response drives the acceleration figures. just some helpfull input.

So far we haven't had any quantifiable evidence yet. Some back to back dyno tests and accelleration tests (preferably drag strip) are needed, to assist the case. Till we get a few of those under the belt we don't have any respectable evidence. jetpilot 1986, I encourage you to wait till you get some good data. It's best that you leave the testimonials. For those testing the product for free I think the least they can do is put up a few bucks for a dyno run. As for spooling a turbo at an earlier rpm (lack of lag); sorry that's not going to happen no matter how good the lubricant is. It may help the turbo's response 'time' but, we need to do some very tricky timing of that (can be done though). Good on people for giving something new a go all the same.

go to your local drag strip, then we will have this discussion again if you think there is a point to it.

sydneykid, that the moroso cool can. I thought they didn't work with efi?

For a drag related car you could have element put inside an insulated container with dry ice. Like the moroso cool can a well used in drag racing circles but, isn't designed for high pressure fuel.

The idle is part of closed loop operation. As for pinging. If you find your car pinging it will change nothing doing an ecu reset, unless of course the pinging is during very light throttle cruising, because the ecu does not change the ignition map or the fuel map at all. The ecu will still retard the ignition based on the knock sensor feedback exactly the same way regardless.