rev210

I think if you would like to avoid the defects you should get one of those electronic fake BOV things. Afterall it's only the sound your after isn't it? Because if anything replacing the factory one is at best going to do nothing at all for performance and at worst make your car slower.

I notice none of the responses so far have mentioned the size of intercooler you should use. What sort of power level are you looking for? The selection of the right sized flow of intercooler will make the difference to how much value for money the upgrade offers. The hybrid intercoolers seem quite good from all acounts and they have a few different sized cores availible (don't just assume bigger is better here).

I'll take the gtr badge and put it on the volvo wagon . How do you like them apples!

the purchase of a modified car can sometimes save you a few dollars, then again it can cost you alot more in the long run as well. The majority of modified cars often have 'owner chosen' modifications which for the most part are poorly selected and the result is a vehicle which performs poorly for the money spent.In this case you need to go back and fix the previous flaws. For those vehicles that are well sorted you need to consider that with the extra power comes some extra breakage and wear. There is a point at which a very highly modifed car will become a most expensive little pet if you intend to actually drive it. The last point to consider is this. You will always be happy with the new found power....but You will never be satisfied. This means you keep spending money like it's the become the new law of gravity. Talk of 'saving money' therefore on performance cars is actually very silly (although not pointless). The left over money just finds it's way into another part of the car

plugs are designed to start the combustion process and basically survive it. Plugs don't by themselves add any power at all if you have selected the right heat range and gap. So go buy the copper units and save yourself some money. In the examples provided by some 'revolutionary plug' companies they spend very little time trying to find the perfect conventional plug to suit the application they are testing. BTW the feeler guage is not to be subjected to bashing or crushing of any kind otherwise it ends up slightly thinner each time you do it unless you have two guages to use one for abuse and one to measure acurrately. Instead the feeler guage should move with very slight resistance between the electrodes (so it just fits in). The electrode can be pushed closed on a flat surface by hand (holding the plug) a little at a time.

The factory nissan BOV is very good. They leak a little insignificant amount of air back to allow for a nicer throttle response just off boost. You can easily block the bleed hole if this is a problem for you. It has no effect on performance at all. For the most part people who claim that the factory ones leak are usually 'hearing' the leak and not seeing it on the boost guage. OR are blaming the BOV for boost drop caused by something else. If you do have a leaking factory BOV the replacement will cost you less than $50. These factory BOV's can be further modified to allow for operation at 40psi or so if you are concerned that there is some substance behind the myth that they don't work at higher boost pressures. And you can atmo vent them (provided you block off the other pipe no longer used) if you are concerned about a small amount of slightly warmer air.

mines for sale shortly for around that mark. Brand new paint. new rebuilt engine. I am just running in the engine and need to get a HKS camshaft fitted then it's for sale.

I kept the metalic silver colour after all considerations but my brother tweaked it a little bit. I also went for a different grill with a chrome S for skyline on it. I'll get the digital camera out later to have a few pics posted. I'm just waiting on a quote from hyperdrive for the cam install so I can get started on that. I've pretty much ran the motor in now so the final stages are almost complete. I miss the nitrous kit though BTW I'm still going to sell the car (as much as I like it) for tax reasons. I still might just go and get another skyline again anyway.

the last time was 13.3 actually. After the motor is finally setup I think it will be able to beat 13.3 by about half a second on the same size rubber.

the delay was due to a couple of things but, mainly due to HBF lacking comunication skills and a difference of attitude between head office and assesors towards quality of repair. You can count on HBF not telling you anything and even keeping tabs on the repair progress, which even if they did they wouldn't pass anything on. The initial part was the argument over the quality of engine repair. I won that one but it took two months or so. The positive side is that I had my brother do a complete respray of the car for material costs. The colour is slightly better than factory and has a much better finish.

After almost 6 months of the insurance and repair debarkle the car is back on the road with a rebuilt engine and looking 'better than factory' showroom exterior. HBF is one of the cheapest insurance people for skylines, to judge the quality of their dealings with members I ask that you look at how long it's taken me to get my car back before you even consider insuring with them. All that is left to to go see the boys at hyperdrive to see if they would like to do the honours of putting in the new camshaft, something that would have already been done had the people at HBF paid any attention to the repair process as it was on going.

I got one of the R33 series 1.5 turbo's for sale. $500. Why get the series 2 or R34 units? So far the factory turbo's that seem to make the most power come from series 1 R33's with several over 200rwkw.

always worth a look at the drags. The prep is not often the greatest but still allows for good times if the driver is keen. Some days are better than others track wise and some days are better than others temperature wise.The best traction control device is your right foot. The problem is in resisting the temptation to floor the pedal the moment it goes green.

The car in question is owned by Nexus Six, I believe it was in shootout mode on a well respected Dyno Dynamics. Boostd and others have had the factory turbo over 200rwkw as well. INASNT, you should know by now that the stock cooler works fine at 8psi even 10 or 12 psi. I have times to prove it. My last dyno with an injector issue was over 175rwkw (shootout DD) at only 4300rpm with afr's in the low 10's to attempt to compensate. The 13.3 1/4 was done with the same power and issues. After I fixed the problem and rectified my fuel mixture I am fairly sure my power was a fair whack higher at the same revs. I have set out to build a torque monster this time round. So the stock turbo and intercooler (crappy designed as it is) are going to get a real workout.

don't need a fmic to get 200rwkw btw. I know of 211rwkw (284rwhp) without one using the stock cooler and turbo. Had. PFC Exhaust Intake Fuel pump My car was actually quicker than that particular car just that I never took mine back to the dyno after fixing the injector issues.

R33's are a bit quicker still. Mine ran a bunch of 13.8's with just a full exhaust and 100kgs of work gear in the boot on the 205's (boost @ 8psi).

where are the 'right people' in W.A then? Can all the guys in Perth get the same deal

ah.. Backyard workshops strike again! You just can't beat that kind of value for money. Good work. although most people won't be able to get away with cheaper than $2k to do the same thing without their very own backyard workshop.

Great time!12.3 shows the power aint all dyno queen talk. 300rwhp is alot, obviously this power figure remains consistant on the road. I have to wait till jan for my car. Perhaps a mid 12 from a stock turbo is my new years resolution?

the R34 intercooler still has the crap core design and end tanks of the R33 it's just fatter (not that its a bad upgrade just not as good as one with a good core and decent design of end tank).

the R-SPL is the tube and fin core. The R-spl core is the one you get with the trust intercooler that bolts in the factory position (ie: it's a side mount not a front mount). Front mount intercooler kits are availible in a variety of core spec and sizes.

you can only get it in R-spl (the better of the two).

yep

I think this thread pulls. to add the the discussion tho,I think my R33 would be able to pull a caravan pretty well up a hill in 3rd

Intercooler wise the trust R-SPL tube and fin core replacement would offer improved performance over stock and fits in the same position for about $900. The airflow of the original postion is much better than a frount mounting but, has space limits. See how you go without the intercooler upgrade first.