rev210

only 9 psi.

Sure is! Neons aren't though.

Hi QWK32, I understand how to tune the S-AFC I have ,done a few in the past myself. The issue may actually not be related to the S-AFC at all but, I am stumped as to what else it may be. I am sure the tuner he took it to would have had a good crack at it but, apparently couldn't get rid of the blip. S-AFC's take bugger all time to setup on a dyno or even without one. I am 'another tuner' that he's taking it to (rather reluctant one in this case as I need to scab a wide band). I'd rather not have to if there are some other areas to look at. P

Here's a tricky one; A friend came over today to ask me about a recent tune on his car, having a look at the dyno I was struck by a very weird issue it seems to having. Apparently the tuner he used was unable to get rid of it nor suggest a cause. The car is an R33 gtst with turbo back exhaust 9psi std turbo Auto Exhaust cam gear S-AFC There is a rather concerning leaness occuring between 3,600 and 4000rpm. It's been a while since I tuned a S-AFC but, I found the settings a little wierd, I am sort of the view that the high/low throttle transition calcs may be at fault but, before I go asking to borrow a wideband again I was wondering if we had any ideas. I had a look at the S-AFC settings and found they had high throttle, adding about 8% from 2500 to 4000rpm. There were no adjustments at all to the low throttle settings for fuel and they left the hi/low change over at 10% & 50% Any ideas?

If you want to use the car at the odd drag racing meet then going nitrous is unbeatable value in this power range. Serious power at a very low cost.

I just bought an Audi A3 1.8T . Good motor, well built and cheap on fuel. Handle and stop pretty well from factory. only 1100kgs. I got a 1999 version with less than 100,000kms for under $12k. Hard to beat value and because the 1.8T is used in VW's etc. Parts don't murder you and they are a doddle to work on.

Looks like we need some more tojo fan boys to vote. The LookFat-Ass is being owned in the poll

ha ha ha. I love the civic's sleeper aspect. Pure rice, ugly cheap and poxy. Being owned by it would hurt alot. Makes me think about doing another volvo with a V8

This is a question that often belongs in the 'say what I want to hear' / ' I can't afford to run the powerful car' category If you want to rely on the old stock engine in the old stock car then the limit is really around/just above where the stock turbos run out of puff or the size of your bank balance. You see, if it matters that the motor breaks then you have the lower limit of power. Alternatively the question is answered; power level = 'lets see if it breaks' when you have the finance not to care. Someone I know ran a 10 with an unopened old stocker. If you have another motor waiting and own a car trailer then you have nothing to worry about. The ideal is to look at 300rwkw or under and do as much as you can to make that power with the least strain on the old motor. Further up the power level is a list of stock bits that will also fail according to application.

modified factory gtr airboxes work pretty well at that power level.

Shannons Premium $580-ish /yr car value $30k Car R32 1993 GTR age 35 Driving record; no fines/crashes

Then do it yourself and save some money. You only need basic tools. First check 'all' lines and clamps that are pressurised. Check the intake pipes to the turbo including the condition of the airfilter. Have a good hard look at the exhaust manifold (take off the heat shields) and inspect for leaks or tell tale broken stud. Take off the dump pipe and inspect the turbine blades, use a small mirror and a torch if necessary. This will narrow it down allot and take only a few hours at most.

In response to the thread title; Yes a dead ceramic turbine bits can when it shatters. As others have mentioned you are perhaps jumping to conclusions a little early go get it checked out.

the marks are 2 degrees each. so for 4 total degrees thats 2 marks.

getting individual degrees onto the cam gear would be pretty hard to do, let alone look at them properly without some magnificication. 4 degrees is generally accepted as benificial, however there are underlying assumptions about the setup. There is no substitute for testing to get it right for your car. I have done a few cars and there can be a little variation on that figure either way that has actually quite a bit of impact.

I think it must be something other than the compression idea, as advancing the intake cam timing and does this along with higher lift. The tomei 9mm lift units smack the standard cams for cranking compression and they smack them very hard, so it's probably something else. I wouldn't mind having a crack at the standard cams again but, I can't really see a reason to do so given my experience so far is when setup correctly the tomei's maul them everywhere. I'll probably only try if someone can give me some timing points to try and some reasons why to try them . I admit I am being a bit cheeky in asking for what might be a 'secret'

No I don't buy or read it. I'm sure it's a good magazine. I am being an idiot

Ah I see, you have assumed that I meant low fuel to the point where air is being sucked in. Thats an assumption beyond what I am suggesting (ie: I am not saying run your fuel down so you are at risk of stopping by the side of the road). Hopefully you now understand what I am talking about in terms of 'sludge'. This sludge can not only shorten the life of the fuel pump but, buggers up injectors and other things as well. This is why there is a huge market for 'fuel system cleaners' due to the practice of retaining old fuel in the tank due to the 'top up' mentality. I my rather long experience of doing this over a few decades, but I think my explanation hasn't been put very clearly. So to clarify. The concept of running the tank 'down' doesn't mean you run it down to vapours, thats pretty silly. But, running the tank down to a safe level ensures you have litte 'old fuel' retained in the tank and ensures better aggitation of fine particals that may settle to cause a sediment sludge.

to get a fully hektic sound block off the bov's & go the twin dose pipes uleh!

POLL UPDATE: GTR > LF-A Oh what a feeling! LoLota! thats just got to get some new forum members to vote

well then if HPI says so...... I thought that was a catalogue magazine for people who want to buy neons for their car. Actually did they find adding neons increased power? I was hoping to buy some, oh and a tomei manifold and order some take away...something with rice in it. HPI Serving suggestion - rice. To answer this blokes question properly the GTR 'is' tough... even to a deaf man.

REGULATORS! reg-u-late.

I think your experience is like lots of others on the forum. Cam's are a bit of a mystery. The setting to '0' assumption on the tomei's is common and basically on a GTR a bad one, I've found it to be quite wrong. The assumption seems like it comes from the belief that cams are a cheap mod or at least only as expensive as buying a couple and bunging them in with a slight tune. But, adjustment can take awhile to get perfect. When I came to these skyline forums I noticed there was a distinct lack of knowledge about cams and how to set them up, I think there has been alot of change since but, there really isn't much understanding in the average skyline punter about the whys and hows of cams (ok so we aren't all mechanics or misguided car-wrecking idiots like myself). The irony is that I reckon the RB head/cam setup is so easy to tune by comparison to the other abominations I've setup over the years (although I leave room for the idea that I have no idea what I am doing if the stock cam thing is right). I did a cam road tune (adjustable gears) on a young lads skyline today and it took bugger all time to get sweet (not assuming cam timing either). On the other hand helping a mate with his worked up red motor EH was an excersise in me saying at least 50 times 'you know this would have been so much faster if you just dropped an RB in here, it will fit you know...' The thing is even I can setup a set of tomei's or standard cams to work as well as they can using the same basic theory and experience from other types of motors. And I am as dodgy as you get I got bucket loads of power out of the tomei's over stocker cams with some mucking around and the car was an absolute weapon to drive compared to a GTR with stock cams adjusted well, with more boost and harder tune. I think your experience with the -5's and stock cams is really valuable to the forum but, for me being the meddling idiot I just want to find out how

Thats actually fair enough, I was thinking there was some dyno's around showing the changes. In practice though you are most likely finishing the tune off at the track anyway as you would. Who cares about the dyno numbers if you are losing races Really the dyno does it's best to simulate a road going condition but, since you can't simulate accurately a bunch of conditions at speed on the track, you are best off bunging a wideband in and logging/changing away. I suppose I am struggling to understand why the small standard cams would work better. Would like to get some insight though. Perhaps the cars in question have built motors with flow restictions removed elsewhere in the head? It's certainly true that a higher flowing valve needs less time open to achieve the same volume so maybe there is some sort of wierd pulse frequency thingo going on?

I see you aren't of the same view? Are you assuming that the fuel at the very bottom of the tank (where the fuel pump pick up is acutally located anyway) is somehow worse when there is less fuel or are you talking about concerns due to some 'spirted driving' around a corner on semi comps and the fuel pump sucks up air? I have found that getting more of the 'old fuel' out in this fashion allows for less moisture and degredation. I've found in fuel cells there can be some interesting sludge build up over a period of time with old fuel if it's left around. A well used race car cell, even an old one is a pretty clean thing (it gets emptied alot). The greater and complete aggitation of the fuel at the bottom of the tank when it is relatively lower seems to keep the tank cleaner. It's an easy idea to test with a pond. Smaller amounts of water will 'swirl' faster keeping the bottom of the pond cleaner. A deeper pong with the same pump will move much slower. In terms of sludge build up in cars fuel tank, the idea is the same. We all know octane levels drop and fuel generall degrades as it ages and it doesn't actually take very long. The practice of the ' top up' guarentees a higher proportion of older fuel in the mix and if coupled with a full tank the swirl is kept slow and the aggitation less. Having said that I've just been going off what I know or think, happy to be enlightened.