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66yostagea

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Posts posted by 66yostagea

  1. The engine don't care what boost pressure it getting but the amount of air it gets, 20psi out of Disco isn't the same as 20psi out of a T88. Stao have proven bigger / better coolers delivers "more cold air", even by using another bigger Takashi cooler. Your turbo works much harder with smaller coolers, not been able to delivery the same amount of air as the bigger ones, and obviously alot hotter then the better ones.

    Like everyone said, do you need more then 355awkws carry shopping trolleys. or be happy with it.

    Yes. Bigger FMIC a good way to go for starters LOTS of cold air is what you need to take advantage of your fuel pump's capacity.

    Fuel plus air = AWKW., but your electronics, and inlet and exhaust gasflow must be smooth as and spot on. You can't get it in if you haven't got it out.

    I recently read about some Mid East Sheik has an R35 that delivers 2,200 HP. Mind you he spent our budget deficit on it.

  2. Because it is auto is the reason there are two switches. One for the brakes and one to let you engage the gear box when the brake pedal is engaged.

    It is that simple.

    R32 who works for Hyundai has only worked on Hyundai and the actuator is in the box itself that is why we did not look past the original switch that is the auto box sensor. The brake light switch is difficult to see unless you are upside down with your head up your ass.LOL

    Will get some pics today and post up.

  3. Unbeknows to me, and others, there are TWO switches under the dash that control the on off operation of the lights. One is easy to see and that one tested AOK. Hence the dilema about what was wrong.

    Anyway my R32 son went upsidedown with his legs over the back of the drivers seat, and lo and behold there is another switch.

    Now there was missing a rubber buffer so the switch could not break the circuit and turn the lights off. Put a packing piece in and "viola"! lights out.

    So if you ever have this problem, takes two to turn the lights out.

  4. They are a sod to get out. Take the two bolts out. You can see them when you lift the tailgate. The assembly can then be prised out with a BIG screwdriver. The assembly is located by two "pins" The upper pin is a push fit into the body, but the lower one is about 6mm dia. and is knurled so it is a bloody tight fit. Be patient and it will come out.

  5. Have been all over checking and found there is a short somewhere in the tail light harness. I will have to start from the back and pull out all the interior linings and hope I find a wire that is bared and shorting.

    Handy little gadget the multimeter.

  6. The Dayz has an M80 fitted.I am no electrical expert but I am pretty sure it is the alarm wiring that is causing the stop lights to be on all the time. They only go out if the battery is disconnected. Also two fuel pumps have karked it. In the cargo area where the fuel pump wiring is, wires have been cut and spliced into the stop light harness???

    Has any one got a wiring diagram for an M80 Mongoose with siren? I would appreciate any help I can get.

  7. Am getting another stock pump. My main problem is to find an auto electrician who can sort out the stop lights/fuel pump problem and whether this is all connected to the Mongoose.

  8. The Dayz is giving me sleepless nights. LOL.

    I had it going quite well. Then the stop lights came on, But that is another unfixed drama.

    The car sat for a few weeks then it would not start. Fuel pump was dead.Replaced it and went fine. Now after a few weeks lying idle, the replacement, from my 32 has given up.

    Have checked the fuse and that is OK. Is there a relay somewhere for the pump? If so where?

    Because the car is not registered I can't drive down to the coast so it has to be fixed at home.

    Help please!

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