maximajim

I have a new T-stat and run a Flex-a-lite 220 dual fan and koyo aluminun radiator setup. I bled the system today and inlet air temps were about 30c. I'm curious, have you logged coolant temps during a run?

I have a Swapped RB25 into a S14 and for some reason the engine has always wanted to run hot. Today I was having the hardest time getting it below 90c. I have an upgraded radiator with dual puller fans and also no a/c condenser. I'm curious what you guys with upgraded turbos run at.

I would say buy a ecu based on his recommendation or find another tuner who is competent in tuning a map system. He should know that a good standalone will have temp and barometric trims (if needed).

I can not give you an answer based on experience, but I can say the Late s2 RB25 had the same CAS as the R34 rb25 neo. As a matter of fact the new wheel is actually made for that CAS and not really the older silver cas. However, I have the wheel in my early r33 cas and it works fine. So based on deduction, that R34 CAS will work fine *IF* the wiring is correct.

There are many automakers who use MAP based systems with no problems at all, so why would you have problems with a map based standalone? If there were problems you can probably chalk it up to bad tuning or just a poorly designed standalone. I have zero problems with my standalone map based system even though I have a 5bar map sensor. Cold start, Drive-ability, Closed loop wide band Cruise, and deceleration are perfect.

Well the boards should be here on Tuesday. But I have disagree, I'm sure with the a PFC or other [non-knock] standalone it would be pretty useless. But the EMS I have is fairly powerful, not only will it react to knock, it has the ability to ignore mechanical noise. All you have to do is pull timing way back and go for a test run, that will be your base line which will be in volts. Any voltage above that will be treated as knock, and the higher the voltage, the higher the timing retard and fuel addition. If knock sensor 1 sees knock, it will add fuel to cyl 1,2 and 3. Knock sensor 2 does the others. That said, it's a really safety device, there are conditions on the road which can't be replicated on a dyno where the car is tuned.

A wastegate is a very simple device, it's only a matter of time before the "chinese" develop one with the proper materials. That's said I wouldn't run one of those "chinese" gates just yet. I run a Synapse 50mm gate which doesn't have a traditional diaphragm design and has built in boost settings. Oh yeah.. it's made in China

To be clear you require 0.020 INCH oversize? The largest I'm seeing the FAST is 0.25mm which is about 0.010"

I have the regular mods, greddy im, 760cc injectors and a custom 62-1 turbnetics turbo. I also have an AEM EMS standalone. It has knock correction with high and low filters. It is possible to add fuel and/or subtract timing in the event of knock detection. We can't always use det cans so in theory this system should work well. Unfortunately it needs to be in a 0-5v scale and the nissan knock sensors don't suit it well enough. By using the jaycar kit with proper freq filters it should work very well.

Well if anyone cares, I've found the frequency for knock in a 86mm bore engine is about 6.7khz, which is a hair above the jaycars low pass filter. So out of the box you're not getting the whole story. I've bought 2 kits to see if I could some way increase that low pass filter to about 7.5khz.

Old thread But does anyone know if this kit actually works with Nissan Knock sensors? I have a standalone that has knock correction, but the nissan sensors are too quiet.

Its only 12psi don't worry.

The exhaust cam Drive for the CAS is also different for the VERY late S2. The oil pickup/strainer is different. One is o-ringed while the other requires a metal gasket.

Only if it's a very late S2 RB25 the CAS willl be different. Coils/AFM/Throttle body/tps will need to be swapped over.

Drain your oil and check to see if there are any bronze colored flakes in it. That would be an indication of a spun bearing as would low oil pressure. I would imagine the cheapest and easiest thing to do is to Remove/Replace the long block...

There is no load that's why you won't see boost in neutral when just pushing the throttle. However.... if you modulate the throttle you can achieve positive boost in neutral. Play with it let it rev down and hit the throttle a bit, you'll see a + reading. It's not sustainable but possible

Never seen any cam like that but I would imagine any competent machinist can fix it...

Probably your plugs/coil packs..

Have most of them here

No VVL in a RB engine, just NVCS (VCT,VVT,VTC whatever) NVCS is designed to increase mid range torque. There's really no sense in changing it...

check the manuals here Say hi in the forums

check the manuals here Say hi in the forums The R34 ignitors are the same as the S2 RB25.

Shot peening is done to prevent stress fractures at the surface of a part. For high power levels I would undoubtedly use forged parts.

I'm not 100% but I beleive this is how it works: At a given RPM the ecu commands the VTC solenoid open (electrical) allowing oil pressure to the cam gear and advancing the cam. The ECU commands the solenoid close at a higher rpm to cut off oil pressure and the gear returns to its original position with the aid of the spring.

As said it goes under the first cam bracket. Lube up the seal when you install it.