maximajim

Like I've said before the aem can use any sensor. It can use GM sensors but the AEM brand sensors are made by Kavlico which are top notch. They make sensors for aircraft (aircraft parts=$$$$$).

There's alot of things the AEM has that the PFC doesn't have that helps lessen the price impact. It's just too much too list. One is a cheap Electrionic boost control option, the aem uses a GM boost controller which costs $10 (!). I don't see how the AEM has a greater chance of destroying something when it's the PFC that doesn't have any knock control. I've tuned with both.. I don't know what there talking about.

Do as Grim32 mentioned but instead of fabbing a spacer you can just buy a t3 inlet flange which is readily available.

The ems has a better cold start function than the PFC. I believe the PFC only has fuel enrichment for cold start. The EMS has Fuel enrichment, RPM vs temp decay and RPM vs start time decay. As for knock control, Nissan sensor are very very quiet on the ems, I don't know why. The most I've picked up is .39 volts, most of the time it's 0.019v. The PFC picks up knock rather easily. But as you know you are supposed to calibrate your knock sensors to your particular setup to cancel out engine noises that can be picked up as knock.

1. They use the same ECU only where the wiring harness is the same. So R34 units are different to R32 and R33. Like PFC's they don't suport autos, which was a dissappointment considering the American's love of autos. That is true, but the R34 RB26 is the only odd ball of the family. The rest are the same. 2. There is only one Australian agent located in Queensland and there is little, if any, support in the other states. There is the AEM forum, where AEM engineers will help with issues. The aem also comes with comprehensive documentation where as the PFC has nil. 3. The price he quoted was $2,900 delivered, which is up there in Autronic and even Motec territory. I'm sure that price includes the intergrated AEM WBO2, there are two versions of the ems, one with an one without the WB. The non-WB is about 1700USD. Now remember the AEM is PNP, no need for Trigger wheels, CDI's ect etc. 4. The last version of AEM software I saw was very clunky, not friendly, slow and cumbersome, not all nice to use like a Motec or Autronic. In fact not even as easy to use as Datalogit for the Power FC's. It seems to operate on its own logic which is totally different to almost every other ECU. You may have been looking at an older version of the software. The current version makes the Datalogit look like a homemade app. I can send you the software for you to evaluate. IT did take me a while to become acustomed to the aem after using the datalogit. However the apps feel much more polished. 5. I couldn't find one tuner with the software loaded, we would have to supply our own. Each ems comes with a software CD which includes EFI basics manual, EMS instruction manual,MAPS for all supported cars, control and logging software 6. All units ran wasted spark ignition, as they only had 5 ignition drivers. I couldn't decide whether it was a 4 cylinder unit trying to run a 6, or a V8 unit. This is confirmend by the CDI where they only have 4 cylinder or 8 cylinder CDI units, no 6 cylinder. True they have 5 ignition drivers, but 10 sequential injector drivers. 7. Processor speed was difficult to tie down, they quoted 16 bit in some places and 32 bit in other. AEM quotes a 16/32 hybrid processor. 8. There weren't any tables for upgraded AFM's, only the standard AFM for that model. No here's the kicker, the aem can use ANY Sensor from ANY car as long as you have a calibration table. Thereare a number of MAF's listed in the AEM software, the z32 MAF is listed. From memory there were a few minor other issues, so they are CLOSE to being a good competitor but not quite there yet. I don't think the aem was ment to compete with the high end motec's or autronics, but it try to fit right below them.

The aem is also PNP if you decide to use the MAF. BTW the AEM does MAF and MAP with the same ECU :^) . All you have to do is Upload the MAF maps, no harder than turning off the Boost control option on the PFC. Also the RB20,RB25,RB26 aem ems are all the same ecu, so if you sell it you are not limited to who you cansell it too.

I have owned a PFC with Datalogit and now a AEM EMS Map ecu. First off the initial cost of the PFC makes it very attractive, nengun has a special $AUD860 for the pfc and hc. Secondly if you don't want to tune yourself you can probably take it to the tuner to have it tuned since the pfc is popular in AUS. Thirdly 400hp will not run out of the airflow curve of a z32 maf which is about $AUD250. Now I tune my car myself and that's why I dumped the PFC. IMO other than being a pretty gauge the HC is useless. No inputs, tiny screen, etc etc. IF you tune youself you need the FC datalogit and a WBO2. That will cost you atleast $AUD800. Now the PFC is a powerful standalone. AFR's can be logged and each cell adjusted on one laptop screen. So now that cheap PFC has gotten pricey and it doesn't have a boost controller (PFC BC $AUD350). That being said the AEM ems is still a little more expensive. Will be around $AUD2500 for the AEM vs $AUD2300 for the PFC with all the fixings. The AEM is extremely powerful, it's comparalbe to the Motec M800 but much much cheaper and doesn't need to wired-it's PNP. The most important feature the AEM has is knock control. IMO knock is the #1 killer of RB25's. If you are a DIY tuner, this is important. The aem will detect knock, pull timing AND add fuel all of which you specify. Next there is the Boost compensation tuning. No longer will you have to tune cell by cell. Because the Gasoline engine is a linear device, you can add a linear percentage amount of fuel for each PSI of boost. You can set up the Boost compensation graph and have a perfectly straight AFR in less than an hour if not minutes. IF you don't feel comfortable with that the AEM has self-tune, with a few runs you can have the AEM tune itself. There's lot more to be said, but the bottom line is who does the tuning?

RB26 is obviously thicker in the area that counts. But if you've held either rord in your hand you can see how tiny they are. Even though the RB25 rod is skinny, it's still very strong. Instead of getting eagle rods which don't have a good rep in the US, buy some Crower rods. $600 vs. $1000. Not that much.

It looks like all RB25DET's had Hicas mounts while the DE's had either. Just check your car

Hicas mounts are round with 3 studs. The non-Hicas are square with only 2 studs.

Ahh sorry, earlier you posted a stock map. I correlated the highest cell on the knock map to it. N14:P15 19 degrees.

So paul your running 19degees timing with .85bar boost?

We all know the quality is crap but has anyone actually had one crack? Anyone with pics to prove it? The flange bolts didn't even line up on mine but then again it was only $90 USD

Are you having sync die on you?

You're in the US right? I have a sII long block for sale if you choose not to go neo.

The splitfires are good for stock replacements, they are much much cheaper. I end up paying over $100 for a single new coil from Yahoo japan through Rinkya. If your coils are truely going bad, they obviously will make a difference. My point is it not a good idea buying a DLI and sending that power through dying coils.

If you already have a Power FC and FC datalogit you could get the LC-1 which is a plain WB02 which has outputs for standalones. Costs about ~260AUD with sensor. You really don't need all the extra displays, inputs, etc the expensive WB02's come with. The datalogit or other standalone will already display and and have inputs for whatever you want.

Pointless buying a CDI and using old coils. Either buy both new, or buy some split fire coils, $413 shipped to the US, about the same price of a DLI.

Unless somehow the Nissan FAST IPC is wrong, your R34 NEO engine already has RB26 rods.. rod p/n 12100-05u01

The rods are not 2mm longer, the crank stroke is. afaik ,you can use rb26 rods with rb25 crank and pistons.

SSautochrome decent? AFAIK, they are the worst manifolds you can buy. Still I picked one up for $90US

Use a light cutting compound with the rotary tool. Do not try doing the bumpers or the side mirrors. Use a heavier compound on the bumpers but use a hand polisher. For the buff marks use a hand glaze, that will remove the marks. http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/en001/a...heme_us_aad_3_0

Try 650RWHP... of course that's tiny on a standard RB25..

11:1 is rich, something like 12:1 is ideal for a turbo car. Invest in atleast an S-AFC to get that AFR nice ans straight.

That's a Turbonetics T66. IF you think that's small I don't know what to say to you. I expect this sort of ignorance and arrogance on american forums. I never knew I'd see that here.