chiksluvit

that's the best looking boat i've ever seen...

hrm i'm just trying to say they're different, not rb20 is better than 25 or vice versa i've owned both r32 and r33 gtst, and like them both for what they are rb20/25, i think they're both good in their own way, i wouldnt say which one's better than the other despite that they're both coded rb, the characters are quite different IMO, generally at the mid to high rpm range is where the rb20 fun starts while rb25 is very torquey throughout the revs i'd say their running cost is simillar stock for stock, rb20 isn't that fuel effcient compared to rb25 unless you have aftermarket ecu and have it tuned properly. each to their own, you'll have fun in either one of them, test drive them all, stock rb20/25, tuned rb20/25 and pick your preference.

totally agree sure a lot of other forum members who has actually driven/had an rb20det powered skyline will also agree on this one too its not a POS.... far from it

thought i'd dig up this one.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...DET-t36702.html and this http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ga...-rb-t57482.html old post i know, but it will tell you that rb20 isnt exactly as "rubbish" as most people would think

i always thought that it was more like the rb26 was based on the rb20, where as the rb25 had more mechanical differences to both.. but i stand corrected! having owned both rb20 and rb25, i still prefer the rb20 purely for it's character, and thrashability while rb25 has plenty of torque and faster stock for stock, i'd prefer it as a daily drive/street car

after you do that please let us know whether it still makes the sound, double check it too just to make sure it's not leaking, so we know if there really was a leak or not for reference.. i guess everyone who's posted here are just trying to help out, everyone's got different thoughts from their own experience, hence different approach and different comments.. everyone should be entitled to have their own say, lets just read it carefully to make sure there's no misunderstanding, and respect it, if you do think otherwise, just say what you think but i dont think there's a need to aim your fire at anyone if their opinion's different to yours.

temp wise, stock airbox is totally sealed from heat sources and i agree, your test does work but that's temp, how about ram air effect? stock box has the snorkel directly aimed at the front, where some pod setups or lidless airbox doesn't, unless like he said, use the duct from the bonnet, again that depends on how its designed too even in real driving conditions stock box has the advantage with the front facing snorkel

ah ok.. 2 of my friend's r33 had the same problems too put it on the dyno and check the fuel pressure, might be your fuel pump may also be fuel pressure reg too, though not very likely. i'd check fuel pump first coilpack and afm are other possibilities, but if afm's cleaned like i've mentioned in the other post it should be fine if afm is playing up or dirty your car wont idle properly in most cases

Thanks Paul for confirming, so ya the rb20 afm is plug and play on the rb25 s1.. ur car's s1 by the looks of it, so try on the rb20 afm and see how you go

i thought it makes u bald rather... or is that a phd thing? few of my friends doing phd are actually loosing hair.. lol but even if it makes you go bald, still, it's worth it! and yes, i agreeing that the corrospondence study isnt as good as studying on campus but still beats nothing some uni do offer distance mode though, i know UTS do for some of their masters degree programs

what kind of problems are you having at the moment? misfiring? anything that causes your engine to not run smoothly will effect your turbo from spooling properly.. might still reach full boost however, just won't get there the way it should if there's problems with your afm your car's most likely to stall, or won't idle properly

which rb25? series 1 or 2 or neo? won't work with series 2 or neo for sure i vaguely remember that it'll work with r33 series 1 rb25.. not 100% sure, someone else might be able to shed some light on that have you tried cleaning your afm and the plug connecters? afms rarely break so you might wanna give that a go first, usually it's the oil from wet pod filters that go on the afm, or dirty afm causing car to not run properly should be fine if you give it a clean

i used to go to unsw, i always just park it on the streets, and always thought the area was pretty safe compared to usyd... i remember back a few mths ago there was another r33gtst stolen from i think the unsw biomed carpark? hope you'll find the car soon mate, will definitely keep an eye out for it, i guess it's not that hard to recognise you car...

BOVs won't effect performance or anything.. unless ur running high boost and the stock one's leaking you dont have to retune your car you can use dec air so it doesnt stall at the lights, but you have to be careful because that can effect the cold start too... it happened to me check your cold start airflow using the safc and set it at that.. but even with that the car still stalls... or just change your driving style, don't drop to neutral and roll to the lights, only drop to neutral just before the car's about to come to a stop, then this way it won't stall

ah i was actually referring to shaft play.. didnt really take leak into account when i said not too worry too much.. i hate leaks in the exhaust, so htat's why i use the gasket goo along with the gaskets.. in my case i'm pretty sure there was no leaks.. but since it's a dump pipe installation, u'd smell it pretty quick if there's any leak.. also put ur hand near the gaskets while blocking the end of the exhaust and you'll feel if there's any leaks too (be careful not to touch the exhaust)

that lid looks really well made.. it really depends on what the vent's like... normal foam will be fine, since most of the foam filters out there aren't fire retardant anyway, but fire retardant foam's preferred.. i'd also be worrying about the elements coming through the vent slowly destroying the foam too, you might want to consider using rubber for the job or just use the stock airbox lid... that's what i ended up using after trying all those experiments with the intake... made no difference with power on dyno

hrm my last r33 gtst made the same noise, which was pretty loud too.. it made the noise before i had new dump pipe installed, and also after. i've also put sealant on exhaust gaskets too when i installed the hks dump so i'm quite certain there's no leaks. it didn't have any problems throughout the years i've owned it, fast spool up, made 180rwkw all day everyday.. i've since sold the car 2.5 years ago, and the car is still running fine to date according to the new owner... still using the same turbo, except its now 200rwkw all day everyday... i'm guessing that your turbo was making the noise or it might've even had shaft play from before anyway, except the sound was covered with the restriction from the stock dump pipe, heat shield.. or that the shaft play wasnt that apparent until you installed the more free flowing dump if your turbo already has shaft play, it will also cause it to whine, but i wouldnt really worry about it unless it's really effecting the drive. if the turbo really has shaft play then u either recondition the turbo or get a new one..

ya... nuh dont expect to see turbos intercoolers and power fcs there.. if you're after simple stuff like air filters, nismo clear indicators and some small nismo parts then they'll have it go there if you're desperate but can't really get out of tokyo, or otherwise chiba's the way to go. super autobacs actually have a good range of subaru parts on the shelf though, dont know why they only bothered with the subies

generally those places where you can get car parts are pretty far from tokyo... i'd go check out super autobacs in tokyo bay though if you're going by train then take the Rinkai sen and get off at Shinonome, it's just on the opposite side of the road from the station, about 5 min walk

yup, they sure are! series 3 r33 gtr lights will fit a s1 gtst no probs n ya, i just can't like the angel eyes on a non bmw either..

i'd just chop the factory intake and replace the chopped bit with a metal pipe... this way it won't suck close and save yourself 160 bucks

has anyone realised that syd drivers are getting more aggressive nowdays? horns, swearing, speeding, tailgating, turning left not on the left lane to avoid a queue... especially those VW golfs for some reason.. even the normal golfs the good old days when people were nice and courteous is long gone.. everyone seems like they want to get in front of everyone now so i guess it's a good thing that police are now more strict than ever that being said, it still annoys me when i get cops tailgating me when i'm just cruising on the speed limit, or being pulled over for a "random" breath test and be given attitude when i haven't done anything wrong

it sounds a bit dieselish eh.. like loud tappets.. my guess is either the lifter needs to be re-adjusted, or the VCT pulley is on its way out..

how much are you selling these g games for?

i'll give this a go... to put things simple at lower revs when engine doesnt require that much intake air, with throttle fully open, airflow will be slower than throttle partially opened so thats why, say for arguments sake, on 3000 rpm, full throttle will be slower than 50% throttle at higher revs, the throttle will need to be fully opened so that the air flow can catch up to the engine speed so progressive throttle will always be faster than flooring it when accelerating from lower rpm, this gets more apparent in a taller gear but yeah, not good flooring the car in lower rpm, it just stresses the engine ecu will dump more fuel and add timing -- doesnt promote torque either