DJRIFT

SPG currently have a cheaper than normal set of these rims in 18s at the moment.

Roy: Very nice mate. all the talk of the r34 wing i was thinking GTT. a 32 down this way had a GTT wing. i looks the goods. TE's will be hot regardless so long as there is some taper. i think the sagged (dare i say it) Drift style 17" and 18" would look good to blend the height of the wing. 17s at the front make it look low and stretched and the 18s at the back complement the wing. R34 GTR rims look way bigger than 18s. Woolsters pics going between them and the weds look like a huge difference. Woolster: If it was me id be straight on the Gloss black with a Red (or other colour) stripe around the edge. a mate of mine had an all black street r32 with black rims dark tint and a red lip around the wheels and for a street look it was menacing. if you had asked a few weeks ago i would have said Bronze straight up as have been in love with bronze wheels for the past 12 months. Bronze TE37s and Bronze CST hyper zeroes are the G O. But if you want your car to stand out as a race car both on the track and in Targa ect. than the white is def the way to go. Black cars hide enough on the track and white or another light colour is needed to bring them out of tarmac. Fluro or bright GReens oranges are the go at the moment as well. maybe going off your last year sign writing some red rims may give it a real purpose race car approach. I did just lol a bit reading that areo catches are now a fashion accessory. they look porn yes but i can see stick on ones coming to an autobarn near you. Update for my ITB rb25 is it had its first bit of tuning so the engine can be run in. Response is defiantly the word. isnt that right SavMan

so your saying your stainless system weighs around 7kg? because we weighed my 3" mild steel exhaust. dump pipe back with no mufflers and pretty much only one bend and it was 10Kg. the stainless one must be super thin walled. which is probably the case.

I thought i was on the right track every one ive ever spoke about the front suspension of a r32 has said its crap. with the r33 one being better. I had also been told not to go changing the front roll centre with just the 20mm ball joints as what you do to the bottom you must do to the top and after studying my own set up these is f all you can do at the top without major changes. if your going to make major changes to fit the r32 stuff than you may as well fit somthing better again. the Drift guys on Nissansilvia.com.au have been talking about it alot. http://www.nissansilvia.com.au/forums/inde...howtopic=412505 Most of its rubbish posts but some interesting stuff non the less. they run the McFurson strut thoe so they are talking about irrelevant stuff for the front end but the rear has some good ideas to

i dont know much as im no expert but i am surprised reading this that you have used r32 GTR front suspension (guess saying it come with the engine EG half cut) as the later stuff (r33 34) is far better in the actual geometry. The R32 stuff also has a very narrow range for optimum suspension travel. if you lower it much over stock it throws the geometry out. So if you want it low and sleak with the ground the pick up points if possible need to be changed to. At the end of the day if you map the suspension travel as in bump steer and camber you will be able to see where changes need to be made. Oh and thats a top job and the car looks very clean in the battle ship grey.

i dont think the output of the neo ecu would be strong enought or be putting out the right frequency to run the s14 tacho. the r34 tacho is controled by its own ecu so its not like a conventional tacho. does the neo loom have the link to hook up a timing light like the rb20 and 26 do? if so id tap into that and run an am tacho. any decent auto electrical place that does gauge work would be able to make the tacho work with a vdo unit.

hey mate i dont have time to write an essay on what to do so give me a call on 0400 563 199 and im 99% sure i can help you out. just do it after 6 tonight thanks damo

feck. thats good power. the noe engine is the shit. the actual VCT sprocket can also be out in relation to the cam causing lag. some of the race engines we have delt with have been out by a few degrees and once the vct kicks in its out even more. just somthing to look at in the future. the tacko out put is really weak from the ecu. what sort of tacho are you running? the one ive done had to get a VDO tacho to make it all work sweet as they run off the week pulse. also for lag you should look into doing this we will be making an adapter plate and doing the whole fit up to a rb25det in a r33 in a few months time. keen to see the results.

^^^^if they used that snow man there would be no evos running after the first day. ive driven through some stages after the cars ( behind sweep car) and the amount of gravel pulled up is astounding. but i dont care i like targa.

enough of that goes on with only 2 people there. sometimes a third comes along and you may as well pack the tools up and go to the pub at 10am because thats where we end up 5 hours later. ben was just telling me hes been schooled propper like at project managing so i think hes gona get the whip out.

Ive had 2 r34 gtt's now with dash cluster faults caused buy the odometer being wound back. the cluster is electronic and has its own computer as such and the 2 i have worked on have been tampered with visually. the dash boards had been tampered with some 6-12 months before a problem accoured. the first one i did had been through the nissan dealer ship and they were unable to fix it and after some time i worked out the dash to be causing a running issue with the car. sent the dash off to be repaired and it was completely stuffed because of what had been done to it. i sourced and fitted a second hand cluster and the bloke was funny about doing that because the Kms read 20k more. i was like well your old dash wasnt right either. the second time around was causing different faults with the car and the dash was able to be repaired. A friends 300zx had the odometer tampered with and it was broken. he brought it with 99.000km on the clock and after 1000 more kms he found that it went back to 99.000kms. he just left it like that and probably did 50.000 more kms then on sold it. its funny how people care more about how low the kms are and not the fact that the under side of the car has been painted flat black to hide all the rust ect.

very nice.... how much.... i mean how much power. i spotted a dyno.

you cant just say that you can do that. im not trying to sound like a prick but ive done all the cutting and shutting that was worth while and removed the window glass and motors and it doesnt add up to 12kg. i weighted it every step of the way and if i had a search im sure i could find the paper work for it and it goes no where near 12kg. im all for people having a go at trying it but its like me saying cut 3 inches off each end of the chassis and youll save 100kg. ive never done it so i dont say it can be done especially when some one is asking for facts and figures from what people have had proven results from. the proven results were written in the post above yours. regardless of that it sounds like you have the light weight doors so some one should buy them. im not trying to be a natzi i just get anoyed when people say it can be done because they heard from a friend of a friend that read it on the internet which was probably wrong to start with. i very rarely enter into topics like this unless ive done it because i had spreading hear say.

the said doors that ben has now were on my car. i did some experimenting and found that 80% of the weight of either door is within the metal of the door especialy around the hinging area. i cut every bit of the inside of the door i could and it made maybe 1kg difference for a loss of rigidity so my conclusion was dont bother hacking the light weight doors at all. the glass and the window reg weigh f all and you would be lucky to have the weight of the glass when using perspex. we have perspex in one of the race cars and its a pain in the ass. my conclusion is. if you want safe. stic with the s2 doors. if you want light and practical ie window working use the s2 door but dont cut it or if your going all ou then get carbon of fibre glass doors. they arent that dear for the advantage. ive seen them advertised at under 10kg each so thats 30 odd kg a door and thats a big number for a small part of the car. oh and ben now were back on the light door topic i want them back

no dramas all ways happy to help. im just pleased the info was right in the end.

was there many changes needed to the wiring or did it all work ok with the new/repaired ecu?

hey all. i need asap a gtr or gtst stock air box. please text or pm me asap. damo 0400 563 199

open to offers on the guards ive had plenty of interest but no sale yet.

a friend of mine was looking at building an r32. (well a few have talked about it) and it was decided that a r32 with the rb25de would be a better option because in my experiences turbos on dirt rally cars mean unfair restrictions within the rules. i Navigate in a NA bluebird and there is turbo blueies as well but they have such harsh rules to comply with. (thats my opinion of it any way) i think form the talk regarding the 25de. it could make more power, has more torque ect ect. they are nearly the same car but the biggest difference is they have 4 stud not 5 like the turbo model and single pot sliding calipers. im not sure if you could change the hubs withing the rules? the blueie i run in has a hilux rear end so maybe? Regarding the brake topic earlier. you will fit r34gtt calipers and rotors under the stock rims and they are 30mm bigger rotors. same pad same look and cheapest bang for buck brake upgrade. thats if you even need it. EDIT: you will be running 15" rims so im not sure on clearance. the other real draw back of the r32 is the limited suspension travel. most people say they wouldnt have enough efficient travel for rally. the back end is the same as the s13 so if they are going ok than the back end must be ok but the issue is with the front end double wish bone setup. the S chassis car is different here and they can pick up more travel there. anywho just some more food for thought.

To add to sav mans info. ive stripped down a few r32s now and the biggest weight areas are in the suspension. sub frame, cross member and associated bits. the actual shell weighs f all and thats why they require bracing ect ect. things like if the roll cage isnt tagged to the front a pillars then you will crack windscreens because of the twisting of the chassis. then the next biggest weight is the engine its self. its a heavy engine full stop and theres not much you can do about that. body panels do save weight but its all marginal compared to the suspension components. ive tried to cut bits out of the doors and boot lid and bits here and there but its half a kilo here and there. so if you was able to get billet alloy suspension components made cheaply i think that would help greatly. just yesterday we were talking to a bloke about 2 different shock brands (top brands) and he said one brand weighs 1/3rd of the weight of the other being a 8kg saving over all on one component. it depends at the end of the day how far you want to take it. i can see in your case its governed by rules but its just some info for you.

engines in and running. fresh engine started first turn of the key. it did however run on 5 later found to be a faulty spark plug. the throttles and a few tweaks to the head have made it use a different part of the map on the power fc so its off to the rollers for a base tune then run-in and back on the rollers for a power run. im very keen to see the difference. i havent changed to many things but hopefully just the right things. what hill climb are you going to in Feb Funz and what date?

If anything the further out that the injectors are the better. the more time the fuel has to atomise. its one of thoes things that when you start looking you can see why we have built bens and mine the way we have. i started with the chop up the rb20 plenum option but that was way to complicated unless you was able to weld alloy yourself and wanted to do it that way. i made a plate that took about 5-6 hours to produce the first time around and most of that was the actual time setting up on jigs to cut the bits out. Had you thought about the negative affects of the shorter runners on the 20? Bens planning on head work designed around this issue. my cars a different story as my engine is a 25de the Plazman plenums are a grate option and have been proven over and over but they cost way to much for what they are. the price that we have been able to buy all the bits and make these for make them more worth while than the plasman.

did you get injectors and fuel rail?

hey all. i have an immaculate r32 GTR intercooler. these will flow over 300kw before becoming a restriction. got it as a spare but am trying to thin out my parts. looking for $150 ono. will post pics if required.

guards still here. im open to offers and willing to bring them to hobart.