Crans

From the Nistune forums where people actually have a clue about the stock ecu, they have disassembled the firmware and run these ecu's on a test bench In ECU pinouts, injectors 4&6 are swapped. However, there is no need to fix that. If you look inside R32 rb20det ECU, you'll see that it only has two injector drivers! One for injectors 1,3,5, other for injectors 2,4,6. So injectors 4 and 6 are the same signal, the pins are connected directly to each other anyway..

Umm I think your the one without the clue. The stock ECU is not fully sequential. It has 2 injector drivers.

That's the exact one I just purchased, bargain at $250.

I ended up buying a $90 alternator from a wrecker and surprise surprise its not outputting 14v either. Put my mates alternator on my car and steady 14v. Went to Ashdown-Ingrams in Osbourne park yesterday and purchased a brand new 85amp Bosch alternator. Look to be plug in as it had the connector to plug into the standard loom. I will fit it on the weekend and will post up model details if it all goon. only cost $250 as well so will be very happy if it fits.

In that case go the haltech

Depends what you want to do to the car. If you simply want an programmable ecu to make use of your mods then go the Nistune. If you want to log a crap load of things, have launch control, anti lag, boost control, sequential injection(not sure if E6K supports this) and as many cool haltech accessories as you can get then go the Haltech.

Exactly what im talking about. There probably will be drivers for Windows 7. Cant hurt to try at that price.

pcmcia serial card. I have bought them for mine sites for connecting to plant controllers and they work flawlessly

Cheers for the help.

Do you have the part number for the Bosch unit? I rang a Bosch supplier(Mainly does started motors and Alternators) and they could not find the right part.

Installed a second hand alternator in my car a year ago hoping to fix a number of electrical issues and it helped but problems were still there Over the weekend I trial fitted my mates alternator and my car had never run so well. So basically I want to buy a band new alternator, any ideas of the part number for it? I believe Bosch sell a direct replacement. Or does any one know the OEM part number(Not the Nissan number but the Mitsubishi/Hitachi part number) Cheers for the help.

Auto electrician looked over my car today and re wired my fuel pump for me. Checked out there job and turns out i did mine exactly the same as they have done it. Must have been a faulty relay

I will look it up I thought it just used the fuel table as a starting figure and used closed loop o2 to trim from there with no remembering

How can the ecu learn if memory is cleared when the car is turned off? Pretty sure the rb20 ecu does not have any battery backed/NV RAM

Using NB sim from my techedge wideband. Using an rb20 ecu so i dont think there is any learning going on

Ok so pretty sure i have an electrical problem. The longer the car runs the worse it gets. Had to drive from Mindarie back to work in West Perth today and about 10km's from the city it started leaning out to 18-19afr on cruise, had been running pretty much stoich on cruise for most of the way. Had to drop her back a gear and keep the throttle on a bit more to get her back to work at a more reasonable 15.5-16afr. Drive it home 3 hours later and it was fine most ofthe way untill again it started leaning out. A new Deatschwerks 300LPH fuel pump has been installed so i doubt its a fuel pressure problem. Also after running for a while it starts missing alot at low rpm. It's bad enough to make it look like i can drive a manual when in first gear unless i floor it, it will lurch forward in time with the missing Im thinking a number of things could cause this. Stuffed CAS General wiring/altinator problem(Voltage drops the longer you drive it) Coil packs are packing it in(Dosnt explain the lean out, would appear to richen up if anything) Any combo of the three above Any input would be appriciated.

$250??

So the earth and the power wire from the ecu both need to be connected to the switch side of the relay?? Pretty sure that exactly how I had it connected. I'm running a deatschwerks 300L{H fuel pump and it needs as much voltage as you can give it. Im also running Deatschwerks 740cc njectors so im wanted to make sure fuel pressure is spot on. Got 2 keys cut and 1 works so im mobile again. I will try and do the rewire again this weekend.

Looking good with the big single That GTR is the one car I wish I didn't have to sell(1 or more man tears may have been used in the viewing of photos)

Ive got the broken bit, broke off when i picked the keys up by the end of the key. I'm about to park the damn car in the shed and forget about it, nothing seams to be going right on it

Stupid car fuel pump just started working, and now my F****n key just snaped. Can you get new keys cut from any key place??

Yeah battery was disconnected. No idea which fuse to check so i checked all the 20 and 15amp fuses any one got a diagram?

Dosn't even prime. I have now wired it back up like stock and it still won't even prime

Just tried hooking up a relay to my fuel pump to feed direct battery voltage to it and seams to be an epic failure I was using a 12v 40amp normal open relay. It was wired up correctly Blue trigger wire going into switch pin then battery to fuel pump on the switching side. I measured voltage coming from the ecu and its nothing Undid all changes and fuel pump still wont turn on. Any one know what fuses i need to be checking?? I can find any blown ones.

How quickly do you need one? Can get one for you on the weekend. Also are you up for a cash job? I have no end of issues with my car and I'm pretty sure there all electrical problems. Altinator / earthing issues i think