Crans

I will buy some thread tapping gear and reconnect the stock BOV. Just gotta do this wire in my map sensor and my new Adaptronic plug in is ready for a tune.

New Adaptronics have had good reviews just installed a plugin on my 33 love the software and features. Worth a look to see if anyone else has run them on an auto 1jz

BOV has been blanked off due to no return in the intake pipe. I now have a return so the standard BOV will be plumbed in now that i know i can just tap the pipe.

Ok cool i though the metal would have been too thin to tap. Where the BOV is it would still get airflow to it. Ill try tapping the pipe first i guess.

Got an adaptronic plugin ecu for my RB25, still using standard plenum and cooler to TB piping. Where can I connect the IAT sensor? As im not running a BOV(BOV is still bolted on but is blocked) i was thinging of making a blanking plate for where the BOV sits and screwing the sensor in there. Any one see any probles with that? Will it be too far away from the TB? Heat soak issues?

Nah not head gaskit ring/melted pison. If it come up the same with oil in the cylinder then it would be a valve problem. Considering your loss of oil, id say engine out.

How long till there ready? If im sending the turbo back for upgrades id rather wait and go all out.

Stao Im planning on sending my turbo back for the FNT upgrade. Let me know if you need people to test out this new core as im ready for a tune now.

Cool look forward to reading it all

Steven can you please post up details of your other issues and what was done to fix them? Nice big thread like this should provide good reference to other users if all details are given

When plugged in weather connected to the intake or not, if the AFM is damaged its going to be sending screwed up signals to the ecu. Disconnected it will just got to limp mode.

Ahh ok AFM well if that's f**ked its even worse. The factory ecu will still run the car with the afm disconnected in a limp home mode. It will run rich and with low timing with hard coded values as well as a much lower rev limiter. With extra richness is probably what's making it smooth I would suggest re soldering the AFM before moving on to a new one. should take half an hour and could save you a bit of money.

Ok first thing I would do is swap out a known working TPS. There will be a TPS closed signal and if the ecu is not getting a proper signal weird shit can happen

Funny my new actuator also has not arrived yet Stao

$150 + shipping to WA? PM me is thats ok

What car does your misses have?

Come on leave the poor guy alone, he is trying to learn. lilcrash all I can suggest is if someone offers some advise that sounds reasonable then follow it and give some feedback/results <- Which you have actually been doing, apart form the odd delay. Keep cracking on you will sort it out sooner or later.

Good thing on boost my car ran extremely rich then

haha too late for me, sick and tired of my car running like crap so I finally took the plunge and bought an adaptronic plug in ecu. Not a bad word against the Nistune chip i set a Z32 ecu up in my mates r33 and it ran like a stock car. This pin swap may have fixed my constant misfire at idle and low loads.(Issue was not there with stock ecu)

Injector pin out between the rb20 and rb25 ecu's are slightly different, 2 pins are swapped I was advised by Nistune there is no need to swap then as the injectors are fired in 2 batches of 3. The 2 injectors were on the same batch. I will be pretty pissed if this is not the case as this would probably be the cause of my car constantly running like crap.

r32 ecu has 2 injector drivers, how can it be sequential?

Block of pcv at the plenum to rule it out

You get 5 minutes with the trial version should give you enough time

Try a different actuator for sure, as for the loosing all power are you running a standard ecu with nistune? If so is it going to knock maps. Copy your main fuel and timing maps over to your knock maps, pull a few degrees from the knock map and add a touch fuel to fueling map(For alittle added safty) Now see if the loosing all power is less harsh. Then retune.

breathers shouldnt leak air on boost only on vacume if you pcv is connected to the plenum still and breathers aren;t connected to intake