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Sorry Manne. North but I am happy to travel. Any excuse to go for a drive. Cheers

By the sounds of it, the cost goes up exponentially. I keep watching the video of the R33 making just over 700hp with a curve that looks similar to my F6 dyno sheet.

Why Lol? I've been told that higher lift helps greatly with response on turbo engines. I know longer duration only comes in at high revs. Please explain, I'm not being sarcastic I would genuinely like to know if I've been steered wrong. My rb26 is about to go through a full rebuild and one of the items on the list is 11mm cams with 264 duration. The idea is to help response/reduce lag.

Would 0.92 still flow enough for 500AWKW+ ? I imagine it would spool up well. Especially with well matched cams and E85. Maybe add a slightly higher comp ratio.

Suppose this makes BW a fairly popular choice. That and they seem like a really well designed and made product.

Slightly off topic but do twin scroll manifolds really cost $2.5k? Does that include the twin waste gates? Is it cheaper for an Efr since it doesn't need a waste gate? Really surprised.

Just watched this video thats seems to put a little dent in the BW EFR. Its a back to back test of the 8374 vs 6266 on the same car and the 6266 wins quite comprehensively. They use a 3.4L 2jz supra. the EFR does spool quicker but the power difference is huge.

Hello. My R32 GTR is about to get an upgrade from 300awkw to hopefully 450awkw+. I am told that if driven sensibly, the standard gearbox will cope. I couldn't find any recent (less the a year old) post. Are there any rebuild kits and/or strengthening tricks tips that can be done on a standard gearbox? Or is it a case of a new gear set such as OS Giken. I am in Perth if it helps or hinders.

Is there a gen 3? I only knew of a gen 2.

I should point out that this is not regarding any particular car. Just want to see experienced people's views. It seems that high mount twins are dead as dead can be. Low mounts are old tech. My car will be getting a pair of low mount Gtx units. In search of 450awkw. The cost of engineering papers puts a high mount single out of reach.

I always thought the gtx3582 and the 6266 were of very similar size. Both seem to reach around the 500kw mark. Learn something new every day. So is it the common thought that BW efr8374 is the best all round turbo interns of power delivery vs lag/response? What about cost and longevity?

This is purely out of curiosity rather then personal need. If it's very similar spec to the other 2, sure lets add it to the list. this 400-500kw level seems to be where most GTR owners aim to be. Faster then 99% of everything on the road. Rediculous drag/drift/drag potential yet still usable on a daily basis.

Ok it seems that precision wins on outright power even though manufacturers say they should be about the same. What about response? White setup being the same, which would spool up better? In the day to day commute, which would make a nicer car to drive?

Garrett vs Precision Hello. cant seem to find a previous comparison thread so thought I'd start one. want to see people's opinions on 2 specific turbochargers. The Garrett GTX3582r and the Precision Gen2 6266. Both seem to be on par in terms of power. To me it seems to be a location thing. If you are in the USA its precision if not then it's Garrett. But are there any huge differences in terms of technology? Is one definitively better then the other? as an example a built 2.6l RB26 running E85. Chasing 500AWKW. Mostly for street and track. which would you use and why?

Cheers. Keep hearing that.

Galvsport. The whole outfit came across as very professional and knowledgable.

Problem with going to single is in WA the car will need to go through the engineering process. That's 1500-2000 on its own. Also looking at the single kits, I would need to change a few things manifold, exhaust piping, inter cooler piping, oil/water lines, etc. with twin low mounts, all. Need to get is the turbos. Everything else will stay the same. Cost and law my friend. But I see your point to.

These still available? Would you be happy to post at my cost?

So just an update Car is going in next week. Will stay with the 2.6L capacity. I have been convinced to run E85. Since the car will be a weekender rather then a daily driver. Plus I can always say that I am going out to get fuel and go for an hour round trip to the petrol station. The decision came down to cost. Even though the stroker kits are relatively cheap, it will push the price up of everything else that follows. If I am speding all that extra money on the bottom end then I would need to spend more money on the head work to match the extra revs that it will be capabable of. If I am doing that then why nod go for a big single turbo to make the most out of the engine's capabilities. Then that means engineering certes which are very pricey here in WA. The its more plates in the clutch, even stronger gear box and even more money on the drive line. The cost runs along the rest of the car at an expenensial rate. As it is, I can have a good bottom end, good head/cam, nice discreat under bonnet twin setup that will still push 600-700hp at all 4 wheels. And do it gently enough to not destroy the rest of the car. The last choice is still the torbos. Do I go the 2860-5 which will make 600awhp on E85 but thats about it or do I go to the GTX which will make 650awhp with comfort but a little more lag. Thank you all so much for all your help. After not reading a thing about GTRs for 3 years, i feel like I have learnt a shit load. Once the car is being wokred on, I will start a built thread and update it as often as I can.

Hello I have an r32 gtr. The time has come to fix up the many years worth of battle scars. Can any one recommend a good panel and paint shop in Perth WA. Want to ask about a price on a closed door re-spray in the same colour. Also need to fix up a dent in the front bumper and fill in some holes on the boot lid. Any advice on good shops and relative pricing would be greatly apreciated. Thank you.

it was just explained to me how laggy my car is. So inlight of this new information. Taking lag out of the formula, are there any good quality, modern low mount turbos that would flow enough to give me 600awhp on 98ron fuel on a 2.6L motor?

I am surrenderring to the idea of new turbos. But while I have time might as well explore all options.

Sorry Guys. I have been away for a little while. Wow allot of new info on the thread. Thank you very much every one. I am going to stay with the 2.6L. After speaking to my chosen builder and showing him my old dyno graphs he explained to me that once the engine is properly built with turbos that are roller bearing and cams and everything properly flowing, the 2.6 will not only make more power but will be allot less laggy then it is now. I have 340-360hp old school turbos hanging of a standard head with standard cams. The turbos are an old Garret unit known as the Le Mans turbos. I am trying to find out if these can be rebuilt/high-flowed with modern bearing cores. Add that to big lift cams and some head work, the engine feel and drive completely differently to how it drives now. Leave some money in the kitty for diffs, clutch, gearbox, tail shaft, axles, suspension or what ever brakes next. Plus I am pretty sure that once built, it will take some time for me to learn how to drive this thing again. If in time I do decide to go for mega power, I will not cut any corners. Whats the point of buying expensive, brand new internals onpy to put them in an old worn out 20+ year old block. No, I would go for a full brand new 3.0L or bigger built bottom end from some one like Pro gtr Motorsport. Yes it will cost and arm and a leg but you do it once and do it right.

The extra cubes is the issue. 2.6 to 2.8 is in real life only a 7.5% increase in displacement. So you go to 3.0 or 3.2 or 3.4. Before you know it, I just ended up having a conversation about a $40K+ engine build. It blows out of preportion very quickly. I wont see enough benefit going from 2.6 to 2.8. Ill admit I havent spoken to every one but from the conversations I have had with builders, quality buit 3L or bigger bottom end will set me back over $10K. YOu guys keep forgetting that I am in WA. Shipping costs to us are very very high. Then its the effort of making it fit. then the head and the rest. I am not chasing that much power. If I want huge dyno figures and little to no lag, Ill do more mods to my F6. I can make my power levels, reliably and with acceptable lag with a 2.6L and the money ill save will still go towards the car but just in other areas. Oh and I do realise that I have done a complete 180 since I have started this post. But I came here to be educated and I have.

From the prices I see on the net, strikers are roughly 50% more expensive then rods and Pistons. $6k+ for stroker 3-3.5k for rods and Pistons.