khezz

2nd that. Would love to see it. More and more positive reviews showing. No negative ones yet.

There are some rust spots in the engine bay. I am going to get them repaired properly (new panels if needed). Plus going to add allot more weld around the points that take the punishment of 1000hp launches. This was noticed a couple of years ago but due to various issues, the engine never came out and the whole project was put on hold. Now that the car is all apart, work can be done properly. Once all the repair and strengthening work is done, we will repaint underneath to stop rust coming back and paint the engine bay to match exterior colour.

Slightly off topic but ok.

No argument there but does that make them a bad product? I also own an FG F6 and barra owners can't get enough of them. So much so the the website has a seperate XR6 section. If they were rubbish, surely there would be some bad reviews.

Does anyone here use any of their products or know of anyone who does? There are a few quick reviews on other forums and a few videos on YouTube. So far every comment is positive. All the reviews say they are well machined, balanced on both ends, well assembled turbos. Yet they are less then a 3rd of the price of a precision or a Garrett. Would be great to hear some first hand experience. Thank you

Car has finaly gone to get some rust repaired and to have engine bay painted to match the exterior

Fair enough. Looks like its an email to the driveshaft shop.

I did not know that. So when you look up axles and diffs and the spill says "direct fit to R32 gtr". It really isn't? Sorry, I really don't know. That why I ask.

Thank you. I have heard that previously. Thats why I was hoping to stay local. Might go for a torque split controller. I keep watching the motive video about JUNII setup and how simple it is. Yes its lighter but produces nearly double the power of my goal. The only thing that's not mentioned is how often the components get replaced. Fairly settled on Quaife ATB centres and might go driveshaft shop for actual drive shaft. Still not sold on Axles though.

High octane sell billet axles. Rated at 1000hp. Car will never launch with all 1500hp and by the time it reaches max power, load will be distributed 50/50 front to rear. Or am I way off? So 1 way is drivable on the street? Cool. Driveshaft shop has some great gear. Just worried about transport right now and would love to keep my money in Australia.

Im getting so many conflicting stories from suppliers. I just want advice from the end user.

No its real. Car will be running a nityo 3.2L built by JHH. Boosted by a G42-1450. Block is darton sleeved and half grout filled. Transmission wise im leaning towards an OS88.

Hello. My build is progressing slower then expected, but its progressing. I would like to get opinions on what axles, diffs and driveshaft are recommended for a projected 1500hp at the flywheel. Car will be running on much lower hp tune for its day to day duties (yes, this will be daily driven and will even have a baby seat) but will see dragstrip and rolling racing work from time to time. I hear that rear diffs are very strong but front diff, axles and driveshaft will become consumables if not upgraded properly. would love peoples suggestions on brands to go for and places to contact. Thank you

Big development overnight. I am now the owner of a JHH 3.2L bottom end. Nitto 3.2L stroker 9.0 to 1 comp ratio Darton sleeves Block half grout filled JHH billet main caps JHH block brace and AWD adaptor +625 head and rod bolts Uograded pins Bottom end is definitely not the weakest link anymore.

LOL. Ok

I am surprised no one has thrown their vote behind PPG or Osgiken considering how popar they are and OS88 being rated to 1500hp.

It won't. But the previous post seems to suggest that oil pumps get damaged because of harmonics before bearings. If oil pump stops pumping, so does the rest of the motor soon after.

I wonder if the new oil drive systems or an external oil pump would help the issue. Great point that most people (me included) would have missed.

With RBs pushing power further and further past 1000hp the demand on a gearbox is ever greater. 10 years ago a 1000hp transmission would be considered unbreakable. Now, with the cost of power parts going down and quality going up, the same person who could afford a sequential 10 years ago would be aiming for a number far higher then 1000hp. Keeping the cost aside and keeping dedicated drag boxes out of it (would love to see a thread on Liberty and Jericho transmissions) Are transmission manufacturers keeping up? What is the strongest sequential out there? Why do you think/know so? I am leaning towards the Hollinger. Been around for a very long time, very widely used in motorsports. Seems to be the only one with straight cut gears which eliminates sideload.

Barra the world

Wait. Let me buy one before you do that.

This is the inspiration for my build. Garage Bomber gtr. This thing made 760hp at the wheels in 1999 and ran 9.77@145mph. I still think its one of the best finished gtrs.

Things are moving slower then expected. Had a months delay on rust repair. But if all goes well, the car is getting picked up this week to get the rust repaired and engine bay repainted. On the parts side, I have managed to secure all the interior parts I was missing. Plus: Virgin RD28 block. PRP block brace with integrated caps A head which has been ported, polished, +1mm valves. 260/10.25 cams. Will be going 3.2 instead of 3.4 to limit bearing wear due to sideload of long stroke.

Things are moving slower then expected. Had a months delay on rust repair. But if all goes well, the car is getting picked up this week to get the rust repaired and engine bay repainted. On the parts side, I have managed to secure all the interior parts I was missing. Plus: Virgin RD28 block. PRP block brace with integrated caps A head which has been ported, polished, +1mm valves. 260/10.25 cams. Will be going 3.2 instead of 3.4 to limit bearing wear due to sideload of long stroke.

I've been given some more insight as to why some people are hesitant. Aparently once you get to 8000rpm, the crank will start marking bearings. Some workshops try to get around that by increasing clearances or keep the revs to 7500ish. I might have to just bite the bullet and go billet crank.