khezz

Even if you don’t need to change bearings, checking clearances is an engine out and complete pull apart job. Add an extra “0” to that $500.

Well progress is slow but it’s progress non the less. Engine is now in 1 piece and sump has the extension on it. Have engineer coming tomorrow to confirm a few details to make sure that the car will make it over the pits ok.

N1 blocks are not special at all. You don’t know why the block cracked. Was it a fault with fuel supply? Bad tuning? Poor build? You are right, high hp engines do not last for ever. But if you think a billet block will be in the car for ever, you are wrong. Needing insane oil pressure which causes huge pressure underneath the piston added to clearances that changed drastically due to heat expansion. Those blocks need regular checks on bearings. What does that cost? There is a down side to each block. We are all shortening the life of each engine with pound of boost we shove in it. That’s the cost of it. You want your engine to last for ever, replace all the old shit and leave the boost alone.

Why would it crack? If built and tuned well, there is now reason why a cast block won’t last. Billet have there own issues. You’d have to rebuild a cast block 3 times over to catch up to billet. Billet blocks expand a lot more then cast which creates its own issues. It comes down to power goals. There are plenty 1000-1300whp that drive and race year after year. Just look at GTR challenge list.

I agree 100%. I can not think of a single reason why you would 3x more for an outdated product. Really really really outdated. This is coming from a guy who seriously thought of swapping his gen2 7685 for a twin T67 kit because I love old school JDM.

With any heavily modified RB you’ll need to go for a good oil pump. Big sump extension or dry sump and good oil cooler. Also get a good quality radiator. Heat is not a bigger issue as you are only filling the bottom half of the cylinder wall where the combustion does not happen. The top half still has the water and oil going past. Don’t skimp on oil and water control if you are putting that much money into your block. If you have to choose one, forget grout and sleeves and go for best fluid control/flow. Lack of fluids will kill your motor very quickly.

My block was built by JHH. It is half grout filled and sleeved. Inlet main caps and brace. JHH rate it safe for 60psi and 1500hp. Still much cheaper then billet. I have been told that sleeping makes the landing (top of the block) weaker. JHH say it’s rubbish and before billet, sleeping was the way to go for max power. All depends how much hp you are trying to push. All billets are sleeved.

Just saw T62 “brand new never used” USD 8500.

I am noticing more and more HKS T51 turbos and full kits popping up for sale second hand. People asking $5k plus for turbos and around $10k for a kit which includes turbo, manifold, dump and waste gate. Are these becoming a collectors item or are people hitting some serious gear while typing. I priced up my brand new precision 7685 gen2 as a full kit and even if I go full RRP and include ceramic coating and beanie and oil/water lines, I’m still under $10k. Am I having a man look and missing something abvious?

Care to elaborate.

Enough power to get me well into the 8s. 1100-1200hp at the wheels range. I’m looking at a combined a/r that’s slight bigger then my 7685 is (1.12)

What do you think? V-band .64?

Well the T67s have fallen over. Shame. I am however exploring another idea of. Twin 700hp high mount kit. This time going all modern. Roller bearing, billet wheels. Looking at staying around .65 rear housing. Do I go twin T51 mod? any suggestions are welcome.

That makes his 1/4 time even more incredible. Did he run nitrous?

I’m hoping for full boost by 4500-5000 on a 3.2. I still think that’s realistic.

I didn’t mean any offence. Just being a smart arse. I apologise. You have given me great advice in the past and a value your knowledge and opinion very much. got to talk allot more with the owner. Turbos had full boost at 5500rpm and made just over 1100hp at rear wheels on a 2630 combo. I am hoping that I will see full boost around 1000-1500 rpm earlier with the advancements made to my engine, the turbos and tuning. Final call is with my mechanic to see if he wants to take on the challenge. If this goes ahead, I promise to post lots of run in, tuning, driving and racing videos. If I end up going back to a big modern single, it will make for a very good comparison.

Are you talking about Anthony Scally’s silver R32 gtr? he had a hks 2.8 stroker. I was there at Xspeed during one of the tuning sessions. That thing was mental on boost. Hanson did the first lot of work on my gtr before he closed shop.

Ooooooohhh twin TO4Zs

You are so negative. Yes, it will spool up later then a 7685 but you don’t run an 8.7 in a full bodied R32 with turbos that don’t spool. if I get disappointed, I can always go back. It’s not like there is a lack of choice when it comes to big modern singles. But old school big twins in good nick do not come up very often at all.

I don’t think they will be that bad. I remember t67s being very popular with all the 2L cars. Making 500hp around 6000rpm making them ideal for circuit work for integras, wrxs, evos. 2.5L guys loved them because they made alot of torque from 4000rpm onwards making them ideal for drift. My friend had one on his r33 gtst. He made 570ish hp on e85. This was about 10 years ago but I dont remember it being laggy. Now add an engine that’s almost 30% bigger in displacement with higher compression ratio, much better internals and turbos that use better/lighter wheels with better rotating assembly. I think they will be ok. More lag is better for bearing wear anyways. Right?

I started with that exact idea. Just a simple forges 2.6 with twin low mount GTXs. It blew out of proportion so quick. A 3.2 with 9.0 compression ratio on E85 is not going to be bad to drive off boost. Plus I realised that I’m building a copy of just about every other 1000hp gtr. I am not sure I want to do that.

Looks amazing. That’s pretty much perfect. My only concern is how it would line up inside an R32 engine bay. I have sent the link to my mechanic to see what issues there might be. thank you

What happened to Kier and Willall racing? Didn’t they do the original r35 billet block?

You are forgetting that it’s not just turbos that have developed. Everything has. Back in earlier days these kits were not run on 3.2l engines with counterbalanced cranks on E85 with FBW with flat shift. Even if they don’t spool until 5000rpm, I still have another 3500-5000rpm to go. The only time it would matter is on a circuit. I’m not going race people on the street while doing a school run. On the drag strip or during roll racing it will not matter. I just can’t see it being that big of an issue. I’m not chasing records. I’m building what I love.

Always wanted to stay twin. It was the early 2000s GTRs that got me hooked. Kiers r32, GTR700, HKS R33, all the big twin monsters. Call it a tribute if you will. Plus these twins have been rebuilt with billet wheels and new cartridges. So I’m not really moving back that far. Every high powered gtr is exactly the same these days. Yes, because it works. But there is nothing wrong with being a little unique. It would be much cheaper and less painful to do it now while everything is still in pieces and my parts are brand new.