khezz

While looking at diff options saw that kudos have a sale on nismo units. Just wondering if anyone can give me some reviews on the. I can get a 2 way rear and 1.5 way front. Car will be used on street but built for roll/drag. Goal is 8 second time slip.

If they are selling the engine, it would be fly hp. You would hope for some after sales support for that price.

Damn that makes so much sense. Maybe that’s why I keep passing out.

If I win lotto, I’m building a 5 second daily driven R35. I wonder if the tranny will hold that much power and tourque. twin promod 88s, interchilled, E98 fuel, little giggle gas. could be fun!!!

Elmer racing VR38. 5000cc, 4000hp capable. All for just a little over 100 000 euro. That’s about $250 000 by the time it lands at your Australian door step. Group Buy???

Right you are. So 26/30 and automatically thought gtr. Spool are apparently a distributor and list all the options for a gtr. Might be worth emailing them.

There is a post on the power tune Facebook page where they just finished tuning an R33 gtr with the box in it. 850whp I think. Maybe email them I will look at it after I break my OS88.

Considering how well the G45 did in the motive GTR, I think the G40 would be an animal in a 3.0L RB no matter what head is on it.

Wow. That’s an amazing result. Do you know if it was a gen 2 6466? I was at a cross roads with my turbo choice. Ended up going precision. All the results I saw at the time when I was in the market showed that Garrett had slightly better spool but precisions made more power. Since the goal of my car was drag/roll with some street/cruise duties, I chose power. Having said that, G40 and G45 weren’t out yet. amazing result none the less. Great post to.

On top of the sale price you will need to pay transport. That’s around 3k. Then there is gst and import duty which are 10% each. Then engineering/compliance. Plus, you are buying an unknown. Rust is a killer in these cars. No one checks for it either. Spend 75k here you can you can get a qualified mechanic inspect it before you buy and tell you how good/bad of a car it is.

You eastern states kids are so spoilt with great shops.

Don’t know about money. It’s just easier with a 3.2. Look at top fuellers. They use the biggest displacement allowed. No shortage of cash there or brains. But it’s just easier with a bigger motor.

Love those old F1 videos. Those drivers had balls. displacement is still king. All 3 of the 6 second gtrs in Australia use 3.2l engines not 2.6l

The main lesson in that video is that RB30 is king. $500 a through. Stronger, harder, stiffer and there is no replacement for displacement.

Depends on the crack. Exterior cracks are usually a 4wd issue/block twist. Internal damage can be tuning, build, age, over revving, inherit cast imperfections etc. exterior cracks can be repaired providing you haven’t turned your 6 into 2x3 cylinder blocks. Internal damage is more often then not end of the line for the block. and yes, billet blocks are repairable but at a great cost.

That could be because they were the only blocks you could by new until recently. There is nothing magical about the N1 block. I am sure Anthony and the team at Maatouks have a lot of tricks up their sleeves to get these engines to hold together. Hence they are one of the best in the world.

What was explained to me is by filling the bottom half of the water gallery, you reduce vibration. This not only helps preserve moving components but helps transfer power that would normally be wasted. You also greatly limit cylinder wall movement which causes blocks to crack. Grout is very cheap to buy. Since your block is out for rebuild and you will have a torque plate on it for machining, it’s pretty cheap insurance in my opinion.

I agree with everything written above. Every one of these failures would destroy a billet block to. If you are chasing big power, you shouldn’t skip on supporting mods. I made that very comment at the start of this thread. the question at the heart of this thread as I understand it, is grout/resin filling (sleeving) worth it? In my experience, yes. That doesn’t mean that you can overlook everything else.

Look at the motive GR Yaris build. I think 700 at wheels will be easy. If you can make 400 at wheels on 98 and 500 at wheels on e85 from a 1.6L 3cyl. I was thinking about a similar setup with my build. But G series were very new back then and there was almost no data on them. There is an R34 time attack gtr that runs twin G25s. There is a very good YouTube video about it. Good luck. Would love to see how you get on

That’s unfortunate. I had mine for 14 years and the only reason I got rid of mine was to go the RB32 route. Mine was in great condition when I sold it. It’s always going to be a lottery. Look at Andrew’s gtr. Stock bottom end ran into the 9s. Built one blew up very quickly. I feel like this post has gone of topic. Nothing wrong with grout and sleeves. Will make for a strong reliable bottom end up to a certain power level.

Yes. Sorry. I am. Where is this 3k coming from? All GTRs come with an RB26 included.

You don’t need an 05U block. That myth has been busted. I know how much it all costs as I have just paid for it. Billet is still twice the price.

Sorry. Disagree 100%. Cost of billet block $13000. Cost of cast RB30 $1000. By the time you do grout, brace, caps, sleeves 6-7000 the rest of the machining is the same. It’s different for you because you have your labour costs sorted. I priced both options up and billet with wet sump was still double the price. Dry sump, forget it. For my purposes and 99% of the gtr owners. Cast will do just fine.

That’s great. I am not saying billet blocks are bad. They are better then iron but it comes down to cost over goals. I want an 8 second pass in a manual. That can easily be achieved in a well build cast iron 3.2L. Would it be easier and safer in a billet block, yes. But for me, it’s not worth the money. Are billet blocks without issues, no.

Well you are the lucky one. For the rest of us, unless we are chasing 1500hp at wheels, nothing wrong with iron.