khezz

Just a couple of more photos from underneath. Triggers kits not on now. Jun intake manifold also on. Finalising oil pickup before bottom is all sealed and hopefully never removed.

Old front and rear diff centres will be going up for sale. Both have been given a clean bill of health.

My rear diff is all serviced assembled and ready to go together. Casing and sump have both been vapour blasted and look amazing. Shame no one will seem them under the car.

Hello. So had a few things happen since the last update. Diffs are now installed. Gearbox, clutch and engine are all together and in the car. Did a test fit on the Turbo. Looked amazing but has shown that a few lines will need to be relocated. still need to install all the wiring and EGT. Install fuel system. Connect all of the oil and water lines. Fab intercooler pipework and exhaust then fire it up tune, run in and retune

Yes. I stayed with 30 spline.

Speak to Will at JHH. Very knowledgeable. Can’t recommend him and his company enough. The bottom end he built for me is a work of art. kit comes with stubs, oil, bearings, seals, gaskets. Everything you need to install.

Nothing better than a present at work. 2x Nismo GT Pro 1.5 way LSDs. Want to thank JHH for their help with this one. Specially Will. Honest advice from past experience. now these can go in the sump, sump on the engine, engine in the car, some fabbing, some tuning and maybe I’ll see this thing this year yet.

Nothing better than a present at work. 2x Nismo GT Pro 1.5 way LSDs. Want to thank JHH for their help with this one. Specially Will. Honest advice from past experience. now these can go in the sump, sump on the engine, engine in the car and maybe I’ll see this thing this year yet.

So just ordered Nismo pro 1.5 way lsd both front and rear. Will give me all the traction I’ll need when going forward but will be a “little”forgiving on the street. Will let everyone know how they go. Cheers for all the advice.

It’s all about “smile” per gallon. I was just making a comparison about making some sacrifices for overall enjoyment of the finished product. Slight humour. That’s all.

Oh I have the prices. Speedtek make only a part of assembly. Great product, I agree but you are still left with a lot of weak parts that are 30 years old. DSS make a replacement for the entire assembly. So everything is brand new and will handle anything I through at it.

Guys. Re-read my post. You missed the point a little bit.

Next will be DSS goodies between wheels, diffs and gearbox.

I’ll see how I go. Looking at allot of the videos, it’s not that bad. It’s like going to E85 and complaining about fuel economy. It’s all about smile per gallon.

Had a very long chat with Will from JHH. He explained in great detail the real world difference between the types of diffs. I’m going Nismo pro diffs both ends. I know they will be clunky and rough in tight slow turns but when you aim for an 8 at the quarter mile, you have forgo some comfort. I’m trying to put allot of power to the ground. Clutch diffs will be the best choice to do so.

Waiting times and prices for local shops are out of control. I’ll happily try them though. Thank you.

I’m looking at DSS units.

Yes. That’s I was talking about. Carbon fibre is meant be gentler on the drivetrain around it by absorbing some of the shock. Aluminium much less so.

I am looking at a new one piece driveshaft for my R32 GTR. I am wondering if anyone knows any pros and cons of carbon fibre vs aluminium. Car will be street driven but is built for drag and roll racing. I am leaning towards aluminium as it is plenty strong (metro r32 gtr ran well into the 6s with one). Will not loose fray like carbon can if scratched and is cheaper to buy. I know carbon Fibre has better shock loading capabilities. any other points from either camp?

There are a few videos of the 2JZ about. I emailed dart to see what the cost of the 2JZ is and what the plans are around the RB block. Will post reply when/if I get one. I can not see the cast block costing any where near that of a billet. Once the process is set, casting has very little labour attached to it. Milling a billet block doesn’t really get any easier. Allot of moving parts doing allot of cutting and grinding. Lots to replace. If you are investing in a new cast block, it doesn’t make sense putting a 20-30 year old crank in it. Billet cranks have come down in cost along with stroker kits. There are enough companies making them and quality of most kits is superb. I think a block that can handle in that 1750-2000hp range would be perfect. You see plenty of cast 26 and 30 blocks handling upto 1500hp. Longevity is the issue. Even a 1500hp block that doesn’t need grout or sleeves is very appealing. Mine is an rb30 with grout and sleeves. I would definitely look at a new cast block for my build.

My understanding is that they are talking about their own billet block. Problem is billet is bullet. Hard to dethrone a good king. As big as PRP are now, casting blocks requires a factory in it self. The energy and infrastructure requirements to cast iron are epic. Dart have seperate factories for heads, CNC work, casting etc. different animal.

Dart are releasing a brand new cast 2JZ block. Prototypes already out and about. Stronger cast material, improved cooling galleries, 4 bolt mains. Upto 88mm bore and 94mm stroke (3.4L). Generally removing any minor flaws 2JZ had. i think an RB rebirth is on the cards. A brand new redesigned block with all of the inherit problems removed. Fraction of the cost of a billet block. I’d buy one.

Looks like quaife will be getting orders for a pair of diffs. Thank you

Just had a look at the quote. Price is for a pro rear diff.

I hope I won’t twist the chassis. Cage should help stop any twist. I have heard many times that the rear diff is very strong. thank you.