BHDave

i don't know about the 550's but the difference between stock sr (which are the same as rb25 anyway) and nismo 740's is only about .02ms i think (it's been a while since i set it up) The difference between my stockers and my 550 single pintle (laggy) injectors is only .12 from memory. I'll dig up my apex engineering sheets when i get home and check. Are you sure the lag isn't .04, .40 is way off?

I've heard the same in relation to rx7 injectors. sounds like bullshit to me though seeing as i've run both series 5 top feeds and series 6 side feeds (almost identical to sards) with no issues.

plug the top one into the plenum. leave the bottom one unplugged. Don't block it, It isn't a leak or anything nasty like that.

All the meguires products are non abrasive so you shouldn't have a problem

gtrs are top feed single pintle so every injector will be about the same. For ease of installation i'd get some that have the same plug. If it was for an r33 gtst there are differences in injector types to consider as well as the plug swap issues mentioned above. Some people also have issues with sard collars (which are sold separatetly) and getting them to seal properly. I didn't.

if the tomei lock kit has been fitted correctly it shouldn't light up the hicas light. I suspect someone has just unplugged the solenoid in the engine bay and the rear end is flapping in the breeze, or the warning light is really telling you that there is a problem. I had the same thing happen in my 32gtst and it was a problem with the hicas. First port of call will be to check that the rear end is locked as it doesn't sound like it.

you can buy them, nissan just like to add about 500% mark up on nuts and bolts. If it's just for the 100k service it isn't really neccesary to change it. But it's good to see you are being thorough. If it's out of a front cut that has taken a fair knock to the front end then i'd say it's a good idea, particularly if you already have the covers off

It would depend on the turbo. there are a fair few versions of the t3 out there. Do you have a particular turbo in mind?

Out of interest, what car will it be going into? I considered a vq30det swap about 18months ago but was put off by the lack of wiring information (and cheap bolt on manual gearboxes) at the time as i had limited time to take the car off the road to do the work.

You can get c's short shifters for autos? I'm pointing to an incompatible gear stick or possibly that the pfc needs to piggybacked to the factory ecu to get the whole shebang working on an auto maybe due to the lack of auto outputs on the pfc

Ive seen them do this in cars with engine swaps aswell. Typically not enough power to the unit. I doubt this is your problem though but it wouldn't hurt to make sure you are getting power to all the right pins, and that the relays in the kick panel are working properly. The factory ecu will work on the back up constant 12V, the power fc wont.

Is the hicas locked with a bar or is it just a shimmed rack? If you felt something snap it would be fairly obvious when looking from underneath. I'd rule out a bent tie rod as thats a fairly obvious one to look at. If it's a rubber bush it will gradually get worse over time rather than just let go so i'd rule that out, but at the same time it will be flogging out other components like ball joints and tie rods As it suddenly started i'd check that the tie rods in the hicas rack haven't worked loose or pulled out of the hicas rack, Check that the studs in the subframe are all intact, check that the ball joints are ok, things like that. Other than that, there's not much more i can offer.

36-38 psi (about 2.5 bar) with the vacuum to the reg removed, lower with it connected, higher under boost.

Mine has h1's in the low beam projector. sept 92 model, no idea about the others, haven't had to replace them yet. Avoid narva like the plague, i bought a twin pack of the arctic white and they both died within 2 weeks of each other 6 months later.

Is it the front or back? Whats it doing? Is the back steering itself under acceleration and trying to change direction when you go over ripples in the road. Is anything knocking? Does it look like all the wheels are sitting in the right spot? Are you running cheap shit camber arms/ball joints that could have been flogged out? It could be a stuffed castor rod, could be a stuffed rear bush or flogged our rear tie rod. It could be a lot of other things too. Need more info!

That looks to be the little unit that groups the grounds together. If you remove the cap you will see that a set of grounds coming out of the ecu (the ones used for trigger earths for example) will be grouped together into a single body ground that runs out into the engine bay somewhere.

In the initial stages for installation and getting the thing running yes, you will be able to keep your standard ecu and standard injectors. Due to the very high compression of the de you will be limited in how much boost you can run. Id be running it off the standard actuator for around 7 psi max (lower if you can initially until you get some sort of tune happening) You can increase the base fuel pressure to give yourself a little more head room for your stock injectors or you could get a hold of some slightly larger drop in's (what size are de injectors anyway? do det injectors fit?) and run an safc, the second would be preferable. You will need a decent sized intercooler of some sort to raise the detonation threshold even with low boost due to the high compression. And you will need to install a one way valve into the brake booster feed line if it doesn't already have one. A decent fuel pump would be manditory. Are de and det fuel regs the same? You'd probably want a det one if they aren't for the on boost side of things. just a few thoughts off the top of my head from being involved in other de-det conversion on other cars. The extra torque should make it fun

If you still have the rear seat in and rubber mount the pump it isn't that bad. Even better if you mount it under the car somewhere up the back.

Daves stupid question for the month, After market rods seem to be one of 2 types, h beam or i beam, where as stock rods seem to be all I beam. Other than the obvious different appearance is there an advantage to either of the two? Cheers Dave

Atleast once every time i drive it How can i not!

3 months is a long time. Mine lasted all of 3 weeks and it is a proper ex gate screamer too. I just couldn't stand being the centre of attention whenever the car made boost......

It really depends on a few things, You can either stick with the platinum/iridium plugs in the stock 5 heat range if you don't plan on doing much more to the car and want to maintain a reasonable lifespan out of your plugs. If it was me, with a relatively mild car i'd be installing a 6 heat range plug in platinum/iridium with factory plug gap as it has little to no effect on how the car runs and will be better as you start to mod. If you are willing to swap plugs at 10k intervals then a 6 range copper is the go, either a bcpr6es-11 or bkr6es-11 will do the trick. You can also gap the coppers down if you get a fmic and wind in more boost where as the iridiums don't like to be regapped.

I had always assumed it was clock wise from inside to out, but to be honest when you think about it, the lobes that are trying to open valves are under the most strain when you are tightening it all up. Makes a lot of sense to me to worry about those caps rather than a set order. Which valves would be trying to open with number 1 at TDC on the firing stroke anyway? I have always been more worried about the timing belt slipping to be honest

I've run into similar problems before, the first was when i snapped a diaphram in half on my old os twin plate, which i later found out was due to the stock carrier being longer than the os carrier. I didn't receive the carrier as i got the clutch s/h and didn't know any better. I also ran a stock type thrust bearing. The second issue is probably more relevant to your question, which was also with the os clutch, was when i swapped master cylinders. I would have had a week wait for an r32 one from nissan, and they had an s14 one in stock so i got that seeing as i had a friend who had used one successfully. The problem was that it didn't have enough travel when installed into the 32 with my setup and so maintained pressure in the system, which when everything got hot (like sitting in traffic) it would just slip like a mofo as the expanding fluid caused the slave to push the fork a bit. I'm pretty certain that it was this situation that actually contributed the most to the failure of the clutch in the end. The obvious check for that one is to see if you can push the slave cylinder back by hand when the pedal is up. It should move in with very little effort. I found later that my friends car was also maintaining pressure in the system but as he was only running a single plate there was enough room to move that it didn't start pressing on the fingers. I am assuming it's something like this as you have already checked for obvious leaks from the rear main seal and the input shaft seal. Have you over packed the pilot bush with grease maybe and it's spewing out onto the flywheel (doubtful)?

You dont need to take the plenum off. I've swapped injectors in 2 different rb25's and an rb20, about all you need is a set of pliers and a 1/4 inch socket set and you can slide the rail out the front. It's a bit easier if you remove the throttle body. It's a 2 hour job max, including removing the old injectors, installing the new ones and reinstalling the rail.