BHDave

pffft. That just means you can run a wider wheel!

I think someone tried wiring it into an rb25 pfc and popped it a year or so ago. Whether it was wired wrong or the 25 pfc just uses that pin for something else i dont know.

I've installed and tuned an emanage on my old rb20 and my current rb25. There's nothing wrong with them. If you are comparing to other piggy backs then the $100 premium for an emanage over an safc is easily justified. Also consider auto owners who cant use a pfc (unless piggy backed, oh the irony), CA and RB20 owners who will have a 900 dollar extra cost to go from an safc/emanage to a pfc and it's not such a bad thing. The pfc is better. You will get no arguement from me. I run one now. I would never go back to an emanage as i found it's limits and what i consider to be it's biggest flaw, which is no correction for injector lag. Change to a sard injector on an rb25 with an emanage and you just can't make it work correctly. That was my motivation to upgrade, and considering an rb25 pfc is more reasonably priced than the rb20 one i originally looked at, i thought it was an acceptable price to pay for the added benefit of a full stand alone ecu. But prior to the injector swap it was quite happy to let me run a z32 afm, i could get fairly flat 12 afr's on wide open throttle and it wasn't a pig to drive. I probably wouldn't have swapped it if i didn't run into the injector issue. Shit canning the emanage doesn't help anyone. Pointing out where it fails so people can make an educated decision about which way to go is a different thing.

install the dual stage tee in between the actuator and the other tee that runs to the factory boost controller. Leave the rest alone. The factory wastegate is fairly soft so by removing the factory solenoid you will end up with a lower base boost setting that you have to make up for by bleeding more air via the dual stage. Does the 34 still have the factory stepped low/high boost thing happening? If so then do a search for the factory boost controller mod that will set a constant boost level for more consistant results.

No one's said it yet. Trust Type R. Large piston area, decent travel, adjustable preload, recirc (or you can buy a nice big trumpet attachment for it), 2 inch outlet.

Just a quick question SK. How do you use a 2nd set of camber adjusters on the rear as the inner already has the factory adjutment. I would have thought that the crush tube could rotate if the right bolt isn't used to lock it in place.

That doesn't look so good. Is the problem due to the length of exposed bush? Noltec's adjustable upper arm looks to have very little exposed bush at the ends if it helps. I have also been considering them.

If you don't have an ignitor and the car runs then you have series 2 coils as they have ignitor on coil. If you don't have an ignitor and you have series 1 coils then your car wouldn't run as they don't have ignitor on coil.

My 14's are hooked up to switch on at 85 degrees. The only time the temperature actually gets that high is when sitting still or on a hot start (heat soak), when driving for any length of time temps typically drop to anywhere from 80-83 degrees. I also run a 40mm china alloy radiator.

the problem is he is using a 2 peice hard plasic bush as opposed to the softer poly bush with metal outer. The bolt would probably try and tear the crush tube out of the bushing.

A couple of minor things - The brake lines dont need to be taken off. Unbolt them from the hub and leave them wired up to something, one of the little holes in the body work (there are a few under there) Remove the struts comlpletely as it will just get in the way when you drop the subframe. As for installing the new bushes with a hammer, i think you will have a few problems. I have recently installed new lower control arm bushes which also have an outer sleeve similar to the ones shown. (though half the size obviously). They are a very very tight fit. I am very doubtful you could get the bushes in without a BIG press and the right dies without damaging them. The lower control arm bushes took 2 guys, a big bench vice and a metre of pipe on the handle to get in. The subframe bushes have over double the surface area of the ones I installed. Other than that, i think it will be a very worthwhile upgrade once complete.

I run 2 14's. one replaces the factory ac fan and the other is on the back on the opposite side of the core. 2 12's just didn't cut it in my car (r32 with rb25det)

I suspect p25 as thats the only listing for rb20/25's. They are roughly equivalent to 2530s so should be a good little unit on an rb20. If its under 800 and you are willing to take a bit of a punt on it's condition (as with all second hand wrecker turbos) then grab it.

The rear wheel looks to be the same size and design as my old stage 2 highflow from gcg but mine had a bigger 6(12) blade compressor in it. I had full boost a bit over 4. I'd expect you should have something similar with your turbo, maybe a bit lower boost threshold somewhere in the high 3's. I'll be interested to see how it goes

Thats a fair result, i've seen pfc equiped cars make less on stock turbos

Castor rod mount? radiator support that it mounts to? Maybe you've opened up the bush on the castor rod in an area you cant really see?

It's the inlet for the idle air control. Plumb it in or stick a little filter on it if you are running a map sensor. I don't know how good the iac is at preventing boost leaking back past it though, as typically it has the same or higher pressure behind rather than in front of it.

If you are worried about fuel economy the get an ecu that can run closed loop for cruise (ie, uses the o2 sensor for feedback and adjusts the mixtures to acheive a set target a/f ratio on the fly). Other than that get something that you can get tuned locally by a tuner you trust.

I think you'll find that cheap but well thought out upgrades will be within a bee's dick of a name brand car up to 200rwkw or so (talking peak power only here). The difference will come when you start pushing further and the cheapie exhaust/intercooler/cat become restrictions. I dont think a highflow turbo, whether bb or bush, will be the restiction in this case until you are well into the 200's. That said, haveing had similar peak rated turbo in both bush and bb on my current engine, the difference in transient response is chalk and cheese. Peak boost is around the same point but the bush turbo just doesn't give that little torque wave at 1/4 throttle like the bb does.

the 20/25 manifold uses an off the shelf 38mm hks wastegate which bolts directly to the manifold. They are still readily available.

20 and 25 use different plugs from memory (it's been 18 months since i did the conversion and compared stuff)

Thats just madness! Have a look around the wreckers yourself just to keep them honest. That honestly sounds to me like they are looking to charge 2k plus for the installation

Cant be stuffed either way. I bought it with a wing and i really dont care enough to remove it. (that, and how the hell can i justify the cost of a respray of the boot lid) I'd rather spend my money on performance or beer.

I'd be looking for the culprit at this stage, while you wait for all your bits. R33 on 13psi should be well into the rich and retarded section of the map, to have killed a ringland (most likely through detonation) really does point to a fuel issue. Stock engine will do 300rwhp. Just get a wrecker engine in it.

Look on the bright side, now you have a good reason to install an rb25 If someone else is installing the engine then that will be pretty much the same whether it's rb20 or 25. keep the 20 gearbox and anciliarys to keep costs down and simplify things. Extra costs are going to be maybe 1500 or so max if you can source an rb25, loom and ecu for about 2k and get an auto electrician to wire it up for another 400. Rb20det wrecker engines can be had for around 900 bucks if you look around