white33gtst

hey hey, just wondering if anyone has an r33 window switch assembly from a wrecked car at all? my drivers side switch has broken and my window is not fully up. if anyone can help me out can you PM me please. thanks heaps, brendan

PM sent regarding spoiler. genuine interest

not really much difference aslong as everything has been fixed/changed at the 100,000km service point. its only another 100,000km service pretty much. obviously at that age a compression test should be done but you should do that at the 100km aswell. if it has been looked after there i don't see a problem. maybe all fuel lines, vacuum hoses etc should be checked and replaced if you haven't done so.

any room for another 1 deano?

thats funny you should say that revving the car dosen't effect the whining. if it is alternator whine, the noise should get louder when you rev the engine. does the noise come around every 5-10 seconds or is it continuous? aslong as the RCA cables are run down the drivers side and the rest of your wiring is down the passenger side it should be fine. having good grounding points is a must like everyone else has said and the larger guage wire for the battery ground is also a must. the RCA cables are the big thing i have found with the alternator whine. maybe selling off your current cables and getting the correct ones for your amp (if they are rated that way) will help. i know i changed my cables to extra insulated ones i think they were (they were more expensive anyway, rated higher) and the whine dropped abit, but it is still there because i have my cables on the passenger side. just can't be stuffed pulling them out atm. hope this helps

why don't you put in the advertisement that the buyer can get anything airbrushed onto the bonnet for no extra cost? then they can choose

hey im after a drivers side door for a r33 gtst coupe as mine has been reversed into and has too much damage. preferably white (stock nissan white) but i guess will take any others if the price is reasonable. dosen't need interior or glass etc, just the door itself with clean straight panels.

hey got the boots last week was really quick delivery and they look great! thanks, left positive trader feedback

did you bleed the brakes after resetting the caliper pistons to put the new pads in? if there is air in the brake lines would this give the caliper piston some play? that would let the brake pad vibrate slightly enough to give off the high frequency squealing? ok just noticed u did bleed the brakes. did u bleed them at all 4 corners?

what is actually squealing? is it the pad on the rotor or caliper piston on the backing plate of the pad? im just unsure thats why im asking. does it only do it wen braking at low speeds because you aren't putting as much pressure on the pedal and so the pad/caliper piston is only slightly engaging? my car is doing the same after putting in bendix pads, its pretty annoying to say the least

hey would you be willing to sell just the brake light off the busted spoiler if it is still working? it is a series 1 spoiler? im just thinking of packaging and postage to townsville NQ, would be less hassle for you?

just adding to this thread, would it be beneficial to include having a small flex pipe in the dump/front pipe? gktech sell ones with flex pipes like this: R33 front pipe with flex ive also been looking at the JJR dumps but without a flex piece in the piping, just wondering if there is benefits with having the flex piece there?

i just installed my JJR type 1 kit on my r33 in the last few days. bit of chopping here and there and abit of stress but it all worked out fine. took it for a run last night and i felt an improvement straight away. feels more torquey down low. definately a good buy. took a day and a half to fit it all up by myself

depends on whether your current canon muffler has a flange or not that bolts it to the rest of the piping. some mufflers you can get need to be welded on others are flanged. pretty sure the canons are so loud/droney because of the reduced baffle size. larger the baffle (area inside muffler) the quieter the exhaust will be to some degree (depends on piping size, engine etc aswell)

yeah its the backing plates that aren't the same. it was easy to push the pistons back in, was just that it wouldn't slide in as the backing plate was hitting on the caliper. thanks for your help, guess ill have to take them back to the brake place i got them from and try and get them swapped

do you mean the intercooler pipe coming out of your intake? if the bar is for an R33 it will b designed to go over the top of the engine (missing any pipes etc) so you should be ok.

sorry i should have specified that i was after the rears?

hey all, im installing some new brake pads at the moment. they are just the bendix advance DB1521's. just wondering if these are the right pads as the width is too big to slide it in? the holes line up for the pins but its the width of the metal part the actual pad sits on that is too width to slide in. hope this makes sense. any help would be appreciated brendan

does the light in the rear spoiler work at all?

does the light in the series 1 spoiler work? would you be willing to separate or if i sent you mine back so you have a complete spoiler? unless your happy to send the whole spoiler to townsville, NQ?

just tough it out for the 3 months then. if you have such a great job lined up with a good pay rate, im sure the parents will chip in for you until your next job. then you can pay them back. just like a loan but no interest

i have a stock plumback GTR bov on my GTS-T and im happy with it. don't like the thought of having a massive venting pssstttcchhh sound everytime i change gears, and its 1 thing less you have to worry about with the police pulling you over.

i'm pretty sure spark plugs are meant to be changed every 40,000km on a stock car. but obviously if you have mods done to the car they may need to be changed earlier. 40,000km is a guide, if the car feels like its missing or not running as smooth as it should, then it'd be a good idea to change them.

there are a few options... you can either: 1. find some low or superlow springs from somewhere like king springs etc or whiteline may have some and then get some decent shocks. 2. go into the groupbuy section and get the R33 whiteline suspension package. alot of work has gone into refining the setup for the r33 3. get coilovers. nice firm ride, although they are adjustable (depending on what kind you get, basic coilovers are height and damper adjustable) wat do you want from your car? do you do any track work? is it a daily driver? mod your car for its purpose and youll enjoy it more

yeah id start looking at getting a good quality boost guage before you start upping the boost. that way at least youll know if ur running too much boost finish off that exhaust and then look at an intercooler then look at upping the boost