Full-Race Geoff

here is a photo of the 1.45 a/r EFR9280 on our manifold installed in R34. I do not know for fact - but I suspect R34 RB26 valve covers may have more clearance than R32/R33 RB20 valve covers may fit also (a friend installed them on his 26, looks really cool actually) and smaller than RB26

@omnigear Both turbos are similar, both are manufactured by Garrett. The HKS 2530 is the old school garrett gt28r. Fits stock location, spools ok, makes ok power. The GTX2860R is a modern version of this turbo with updated bearings, GTX compressor aero and much more power capability.

hi rob, I agree with your decisions here. For my personal projects, I prefer IWG for the exact reasons you outlined. The Exhaust cutout near to the turbo will help. But be careful to choose a high quality cutout (i have seen many fail). also you may find 3.5" is suitable and 4" does not offer any benefit Of course the 4b11T is backpressure sensitive so the 4 port solenoid with a twin port IWG is a good way to get boost where you want it. Long term I believe the electronic stepper actuators may prove to be an ideal control system

Hi Robo, thanks for using our EvoX turbo kit. 2 bar at 3900rpm is excellent for the 8374. What exactly are you looking to acheive and do you have any reason why you would not want to go external WG? In the case of a RHD evoX, there is less room than LHD. As you know, the steering shaft area is your space constraint from using a large diameter downpipe. Dumptubes for an external WG can be tough to package - but doable.. depending on what your exact goals may be will ultimately dictate the piping configuration. you are welcome to email me directly to [email protected] and ill do my best to help

GCG is fantastic, we have a good collaborative relationship with one another. theyve been at the turbo game for longer than I've been alive. Re the G-series ... divided t4 will eventually happen, it may take a year or more. So don't wait for it. You can swap turbine housings once they are released if you choose. Full Race has 1 or 2 G35s left in stock if you or gcg need one. 0.83 and 1.01 a/r

the Garrett quality went up with G-series compared to the older GT - no question about it. The only debate seems to be about lag/response compared to their legacy turbos.. which will likely continue to be a debate until the G-series divided turbine housings become available

i asked them to edit that post. what i typed is correct

Built b series drag race Honda, full race top mount kit. only turbo changed- no other changes. Green line = 9180 1.05 a/rRed & blue = 8474 1.45 a/r

would you mind reposting your dyno chart with engine RPM as the lower axis? ...and if you are working to optimize the setup, a turbo speed sensor would be immensely helpful here to provide you feedback working on it! may be a little while but making progress. interestingly Full Race appears to be the only Garrett distributor pushing for this, everyone else just wants vband

Hey Lith - apparently i am in the dark on him. can you post a link to the data? I'd be interested to check this build out We too have experimented internally with different compressor housing inlet configurations. Even "corkscrew" style inlets to pre-whirl the air entering the compressor blades. After realizing >zero< changes in almost every regard, we abandoned the project and scrapped or liquidated the remains. I have to wonder has anybody actually documented a tangible delta here? Albeit shaft speed, NVH ("sound") or otherwise? tai, all looks standard here, but it is hard to tell if the drain line could potentially have any internal restrictions (kinks) once installed. Obviously i am on the opposite side of the planet... but this can be hard to ascertain at times. Ive made the same error and overlooked a kink on my own personal project vehicle recently. drove me nuts until my buddy took one glance and caught it. one other issue that can cause this is a high crankcase pressure scenario. We had a well known RB drifter from NZ recently (zak, maybe you know him) who plumbed his catch can wrong and thought the turbo was bad. Once he got crankcase pressure under control the oil bypass symptoms all resolved. I dont intend to give you a runaround, but if the leak was on the compressor side then there may be something to look at. Oil leak on the turbine side means something is blocking the oil from draining out of the center section Hi, I can understand your frustration. If I were in your position I would probably feel the same way. Unequivocally, we have never seen any compressors with loose aluminum shavings inside.. yours was the first. However most all of the BorgWarner ported shrouds exhibit some "tearing" at the thin surfaces. Whether SXE or EFR, this superficial issue did improve for some time, and recently re-appeared. Im sorry the replacement we sent out was not sufficiently better. Maybe having the "t51R mod" applied would be a solution for this, rather than a performance change - an aesthetic one. I hope the no cost additional housing can help Have not seen a high rate of problems, in fact EFR is proven to be fairly reliable in the world of aftermarket racing turbos. There is one issue, and it appears to be isolated to casting quality from their aluminum foundry supplier its never fun to have disappointed customers and we will make sure to let BW aware. Thanks for the feedback and discussion as always, good or bad I am genuinely grateful to have these channels of communications open.

exhaust manifold pressure influences cylinder pressure. In a true competition race application, which expects to have an engine replacement after every race, smallish AR and nitrous makes sense. If you do not intend to regularly teardown the motor, then a larger AR will reduce cylinder pressure and help extend engine service life

hello Tai, in my experience your issue is not a problem with the turbocharger. More than likely there is an issue with the oil drain. There are 2 things i suggest to closely inspect: -the oil drain hose. more than likely it has a kink in it or -the fitting on the bottom of the turbo: is there a fitting threaded directly into the bottom of the turbo? or is there a 2bolt flange?

agree 8474 .. and if 300 shot is in the offing, 1.45 a/r makes a lot of sense. if you need the turbo i would be happy to help accomodate. we have all variations in stock, same day shipping

this is the natural evolution ? Youve got a good grasp on reality (experience will do that) and yes fully agree 8474 will be a fiend here. but the 400 shot!?! thats a lot of nitrous. On the Papadakis / Aasbo drift toyota, they use a 100 shot on the EFR8474 and its been a solid combination.. ^^^^^^^ +1

people also think dyno #s = drag times. but fail to realize that gearing, chassis, tire setup, track prep and launch specifics matter quite a lot...

the best 9280 back to backs against 9180 were WTAC builds from scott kuhner at Emtron / Insight. 3 cars, all the same turbo, shaft speed went down, airflow went up, backpressure did not get worse

trust me you arent alone... in early november I had the conversation that the one site is getting updates and they did not realize it, in fact they were using turbos.bwauto.com unfortunately this type of confusion can happen when there are 12,000+ employees spread across the planet with IT in germany, engineering in north Carolina, Corporate in michigan and billing somwhere else. all part of the fun & games in our automotive aftermarket industry. too big to ignore, too small to dedicate real resources to.

The latest maps were online for a while now: https://www.borgwarner.com/matchbot/ Burn4005 - there is an old BW site that no longer gets updates, do not use the turbos.bwauto.com site for matchbot

the best 8474 comparative result came from Steph Papadakis. Fred Aasbo's drift car has a fairly evolved engine program. He uses 8374, 8474 and 9174 still in competition, switching between turbos per track. Many years of data, cliffnotes are: -8374 for small tracks, rarely needs nitrous. the perfect "small turbo" for their needs -9174 was their choice for the bigger tracks, with nitrous. This has been replaced with 8474 and there is very little difference in tune or overall airflow. The net difference is 8474 spools a little earlier than 9174. but a little later than 8374 -this is a 4cyl engine and they still prefer to use 0.92 a/r next year on the new supra it will be 8474 vs 9274 vs 9280. unsure what turbine housing will be used.

+1 what is your specific setup (engine displacement, max RPM, head/cam/manifolds, altitude) Do you have any more specific data that your tuner can share? Maybe turbo speed sensor? Do you have the ability to monitor backpressure? Has a thorough boost leak test been performed? Twin gates can be connected identically to single gates. if your tuner is fancy (like Peter) then you can run twin solenoids, but thats unlikely to be the issue here. done this a number of times on different applications. The results are typically what you would expect, bigger AR makes more power, appears to spool identically (on the dyno). on the street it loses response Some tuners who claim this do not have enough data to work from, or a lack of understanding (or both). Backpressure and shaft speed + EGT are critical links in understanding the system. If they are disappointed in the max power result then its probably an issue with the setup or the turbo is too small. The larger inducer EFR 9280 certainly does move more air. and Peter may be pleasantly surprised with the 9280. I felt the same in many instances, but so far it appears to be delivering

what is your max engine RPM? and what is your max boost target, 2bar? for a 2.5L engine at 500ft above sea level, revving to 7000rpm or 8000rpm, you may want to play around with garrett boost advisor or bw matchbot. this can help dial in your setup. youtube videos at the bottom of the bw page. If you want to post up a link or a map with plotting points, it is much easier to understand what your operating parameters will be. Unfortunately aftermarket "upgraded" compressor wheels are typically a mystery and do not have any compressor maps to work from

i would bet both are a factor... hotside and not winding it up. fyi - Scott said it was 50kw at 110krpm shaft speed. more on the table. He said he was also dubious at first but "holy f**k, that f**king thing is the shit" was his exact words haha

Yes, All G25/G30/G35 are outline interchangeable. They share the same size inlet and outlet v-band geometry (not a coincidence) +1 +2 I agree 100% - the G25-550 is an outstanding turbocharger for the SR20DET. Also worth noting the T25 flanged G25 would be a nice compliment to the OEM cast manifolds for a sleeper setup

I was hanging with Scott Kuhner (EMtron) last weekend, he did a back to back of 9180 vs 9280. saw identical spool and a solid 50+kw across the board... he loves the turbo. I will ask him to post the comparison now, but its rare that he shares customer setups. If any of you guys know Scott, buy him a beer for me ? 3L displacement, 10:1 compression and a decent set of cams on E85... yes your setup is a candidate for 1.45 a/r. But as a street car then it isnt likely to operate at high boost and high rpm like a track car. If you can spend some time with the matchbot webpage it may help you to determine where you are operating and what the actual implications will be ? i enjoyed the "little school girl giggles" too

^^^what he said. No way will these bolt on to stock RB26 configuration. you must use GTX if you are looking for that. T25 G25 will work on SR20 however