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f**k me, if your father in law believes that I dare say you married a lemon It's a fundementally flawed idea. The process of seperating hydrogen and oxygen from water isn't 100% efficient. To top it off.... where do you think the electrolyser gets its electricity from... the alternator! Also not 100% efficient. Basically your taking power away from the engine, wasting half of it and then trying to put it back in again. Alternators are only around a kilowatt anyway, a kilowatt electrolyser won't even run a lawnmower. Spend the money on weed instead

Definitely get a wideband sensor, you can't do without it. To make the initial maps, measure the AFR's around the rev range with the stock ECU controlling things. Once you've gotten a good idea of what the ratio's should be connect 2 or 3 of the injectors to the MS. Tune the fuel delivery till the AFR's are back to normal then connect the other 3 injectors. Tuning it from absolute scratch is a pain in the ass, this will speed up the process considerably. Just remember if you have way too much fuel your wideband can read lean, tune in small amounts and make sure your moving the right direction. If your dead set on tuning the ignition table yourself get a knock meter. There are circuits out there that can interface the MS with factory knock sensors but there not perfect. Get something reliable so you don't go throwing rods around the engine bay. Read up at www.msextra.com It's an awesome feeling cruising around on an ECU you built and tuned yourself, you'll learn a metric shitload as well

heh didn't even notice. I just saw on the main FI page. You don't need to modify your Cas just to do fuel. You need to tap and buffer one of the signals from the cas and the megasquirt can read the RPM off this. The idea of the micro controller circuit was to keep the original CAS and just bend the signals to suit the MS. Modding the cas would be fairly simple. The MS triggers off the inside (IIRC) signal which give one pulse per cylinder. The outside signal on the wheel has one pulse per degree, which is useless for the MS. What it needs is a reset pulse, once per revolution of the CAS. This pulse tells it that its back at the first cylinder. So in short, you cover the entire outside track on the CAS wheel and make a hole in between the 6th and 1st cylinder. The slots in the inside track get shorter as they go from 1 -> 6, so 1st is the largest and 6th is the shortest. The trailing edges of the inner pulses are all 60 degrees apart on the wheel so its perfectly acceptable to trigger of that.

I'm using a megasquirt 2 with the MS Extra code. I had it hooked up for fuel delivery, ignition was next on the list but I went and crashed the R32 into a pole (hopefully back soon). Getting it to do coil on plug ignition is a bit of a mission, I was planning on making microcontroller circuit to handle it. Wasted spark would be easy however, and we already have an ignitor that's compatible with the megasquirts outputs. You do have to modify the CAS for ignition, its very similar to the Autronic wheel. I think I paid $600 for the MS2 kit and a Wideband controller and sensor from DIYautotune.com. It would be a lot less now with our dollar up. It's not a bad deal if your willing to learn about tuning and a bit of electronics. Keep in mind it can handle the AAC valve, boost control, spark and fuel cut rev limiters, launch control, water injection control,NOS control, wideband O2 sensor support and knock control. It's MAP sensor'd as well so you can ditch the AFM, or keep it cause it supports that too. EDIT: If anyone wants more info just ask in here, I'll try and answer best I can

Tried swapping out the AFM? Could be a dry joint in there being an intermittent problem. Was the CAS you used working fine on another car? Definately sounds like a ECU sensor related problem. If you need parts to swap out, give me a pm. My R32 is off the road and I have parts everywhere.

When my CAS died it was because one of the bearings had died and was spitting out heaps of really fine red dust and clogging the sensor. If you can open up any of the CAS's just check that there isn't crap in there. With my old one it would get really hard to turn but when I flushed it out with contact cleaner it free'd itself up again.

I've got an NA sw20 MR2. Awesome little cars. Only thing I hate about it is the engine bay, my alternator died and there's very little room to get the thing out. Apart from that I love it, two seats means you never have to be designated driver as well If my skyline doesn't get rego'd again I'm putting a V6 in the MR2

So once its hot it screws up? Progressively getting more worse over time? Lumpy idle? Feels like you have a rev limiter set really low? You need a new CAS my friend Short term you can open it and clean it out with contact spray, but it will screw up again. It needs to be replaced.

New to the internets huh?

Can't be done using only the ECU. Easiest way to do it is remap the ecu with a redline 500rpm above where you want it to cut Install bee*R and set at the desired limit. ????? profit!

Do her best friend Go for the really upset and in need of comfort angle, crocodile tears are a must. It's evil... but utterly hilarious

I don't think it would make anydifference... that extra inch of rom width is what's causing issues, 235 will be very stretched over a 9 inch wide rim. You won't be able to fit a 9 inch wide rim on there without a reasonable sized spacer or low offset rims. If you already have the rims I'd suggest the spacer option.

I have an 110k Kms RB20DET + Manual Box + Loom + Modded ECU + turbo. Probably not equal value though

I've got two spare, drop me a PM

I made Nissan change mine a few months ago (R32 GTS-T). I think it cost me $250 ish, mainly because they didn't realise it was a press fit bearing and it took them 3 hours longer than they thought. I love quotes. There not going to make that mistake again IIRC they had to use an oxy to get the SOB out

I ran 18x8 with 235's without too much hassle. I just needed a small spacer (5mm maybe? I didn't measure) to clear the brake calliper and all was sweet. Didn't even rub on the arch lining which surprised me a little.

Is the inspection for getting a car re-registered the same as a yellow? or more intensive? I'll need to take mine across after I fix the front end damage. Not looking forward to the experience...

haha that's awesome. Hope you got on the horn just to give him the irrits

Short story is I had a very shithouse start to the year which involved my R32 hugging a power pole. Got the call today saying its a write off There's a few things on it that are worth a fair bit of money that I wasn't covered for. Mainly the R33 gearbox and manual conversion and HKS Hypermax 2 suspension. There's also a good $1000 worth of tyres on it as well that have only done 5000km. For those that have written off a car and bought it back, was it worth the effort? Also, was it hard to get rid of the shell once you were done?

I had mine done a few weeks ago. Did a great job

The balancer is off, its the sprocket between the balancer and the oil pump that the timing belt sits on. I've got a puller, its just got no holes to attach bolts to. I'll probably have to drill and tap some? It 'should' just slide off, but its being a major pain in the ass

Has anyone else had problems getting the crank timing pulley off the RB30 crank? It's supposed to slide on and off according to the service manual but mine is fairly wedged on. Blow torch and pry bar moved it far enough to ease the crank out of the block but I still need to get the old oil pump off Also, while everyone is talking about turbos... am I being optimistic to think a Trust T78-33D with its smallest (14cm) housing would get close to full boost by 4.5k rpm? I know it all depends on cams, tune and all the rest. I'm just looking for a round about figure to estimate it's response. I don't really want to buy it if it comes on way too late and makes the car useless for anything but the drags. Block is going off for a bore and hone tomorrow to suit the CP Pistons then I get to start assembling and hopefully I'll be running it in for the new year.

Leo Gommer Engineering did a awesome job repairing some rims I bought. He doesn't fix up paint but if you half handy with a spray can it isn't all that hard to fix it up yourself. He was very well priced as well considering the amount of work he did, very recommended Gommers Leo Engineering 2 Gibbs St East Cannington WA 6107 ph: (08) 9451 5238

I had my #3 cylinder drop out when my CAS started clogging up with dust from a blown bearing in the cas itself. Was a pain in the ass to find the problem. Could be worth taking the CAS off and making sure it spins freely (should spin very very easily with no noise at all) or if you can open yours blast some contact cleaner through it. You can also check if your ignitor is working with a parker globe, just touch the legs on the + and - of the coil pack connection and see if it lights up at all. It should just be a dim flicker. Either that or buy a cheap multimeter that can measure frequency and check it that way.