fr0st

That would be the oil feed from the oil pressure sender tapped into the oil passage that would normally feed the VCT. I think...

I've just started stripping my RB30e down to fit all my goodies. Would it be worth replacing welsh plugs on a 180 thousand K engine?

The police went digital for that reason.

Got mine today, Cheers

Thanks, I appreciate it. Sorry to be a pain the ass

I haven't received mine either, but if its in the mail... what can you do but wait

Strange question... but if anyone has the calipers off their car can they measure the diameter of the pistons for me?

I have the same problem at the moment, my driver's side HID won't turn on properly because they draw 20 amps on startup and the switch is old. A relay should fix it... I'm just lazy

Look at the site in my sig, that kind of reflective

I've been doing a fair bit of reading on this since I started the thread and the idea of an undertray and diffuser is probably the most effective, but its a lot of effort. Your reducing the drag under the car by smoothing out the flow whilst causing the air to flow faster (less turbulent flows faster). When air flows faster the pressure drops lower than the pressure on the top of the car and generates down force. This PDF probably does a better job than me at explaining - http://www.tfd.chalmers.se/%7Elelo/rvad/re...2_underbody.pdf Another one I'm looking at trying is an air dam and splitter. The PDF touches on the air dam but not the splitter. The air dam just prevents more air going under the car to reduce the pressure even more. The splitter is a horizontal plate at the bottom of the air dam that extends forward a few inches. When the air hits the front of the car it creates a huge high pressure zone, combined with the low pressure of the air going under the splitter/air dam you can generate a fair bit of down force at the front. Pretty much when you have a high pressure on the top and low pressure on the bottom you generate down force, and the more surface area you stick in between them the more force you get. RE: Vortex Generators. This is the Mitsubishi paper on them for the evo - http://www.mitsubishi-motors.com/corporate...2004/16E_03.pdf Although Skylines don't have the same rear windshield angle, there is still a fair bit of separation between the car body and the majority of the flow above the car. The real gains come when you use vortex generators to direct more air towards a spoiler/wing. Feel free to shoot down anything I've said... I'm still learning

Multanova's need to be setup on a certain angle otherwise there speed reading is thrown way out (google radar cosine error for more info). Not sure if Lidar is affected by it as well, at least not to the same extent. Cosine error makes the camera read less, not more . Sweep error (e.g panning from one headlight to the other) when using a lidar gun will add to your speed, which is why trees can be caught speeding.

If they put up permanent camera's I'm buying a paint ball gun

I haven't seen a proper aerodynamics discussion on SAU so I'm going to start one I did search for any discussion on it but nothing turned up. Has anyone done any major aerodynamics work on any cars and logged the results? I managed to pick up a copy of "Race Car Aerodynamics: Designing for Speed" which I'm yet to read but the basic improvements I'm thinking about would involve a splitter, partial under tray and a diffuser. Evo's seem to have good results with roof placed vortex generators which is probably worth experimenting with aswell. Lastly, and probably least important, does modifying the aerodynamics exclude you from certain racing classes? My car is just for fun, I'm just curious about the rules relating to aero. Thanks all

It'd say its probably the AFM, give it a decent clean and hopefully you'll see some improvement. Otherwise the knock sensor could be faulty and making it run on the lower octane maps. Do you have a consult cable to check?

Dam... I hope the same thing happens to me when my summons arrives At over 45 km/h it has to be classed as reckless driving which is a mandatory 6 month suspension. See here - http://www.officeofroadsafety.wa.gov.au/pd...1969_WEB_HR.pdf *prays for a skyline loving judge*

Each to there own... if you want an R33 then get one! I'd prefer an R32 with 10k worth of mods over a tidy near stock R33... but thats just me. 10k is a fair bit of money to play with, sink that money into a RB30DET and RB25 box then go have some fun

haha The sarcasm is strong with that post Just because there older doesn't mean they're guaranteed to blow, it may need a little more love but parts for R32's are cheap. You can easily get a RB20DET and box for a lot less than what a RB25DET box is worth. For something that is 10k cheaper, you can replace anything thats worn out with aftermarket parts and end up with a nicely modified car compared to a dead stock R33 for the same money. There are already enough R33's around, you guys are going to be the import version of the commodore soon

I think the solution here is not to get an R33, R32 ftw I regularly get 8.5 - 9L/100km commuting, people with 350rwhp RB20's get the same With the money you save on buying it you can either save for a rainy day or put it into some mods and some track/autocross days. Your only young and stupid once... and nothing says young and stupid like a Skyline

What about getting a V35 mitchy? Don't goto the dark side

Aren't you worried about the water washing the oil off the bores and causing excess wear and tear? Especially pushing a stock bottom end to 300rwkw.

Os Giken 3 liter Dry Sumped and balanced to 10k rpm HKS T51r 6 speed close ratio box 2 way kaaz diff's Fattest tyres you can fit .... all on a stock looking R32

Congrats on a job well done Shame I couldn't make it... dam work is killing me

How loud is the pinging? Does it rise with the revs? Is there smoke out the exhaust (if so what colour)? It could actually be metal on metal if you've done something major. If you leave the car in neutral or have the clutch in and rev it does it still make the noise? Is there anywhere under the bonnet that its coming from?

I think it has more to do with getting an even force across the entire pad. 'Stilhetto effect' doesn't really apply because the piston pressure is applied to the pad which is then applied to the rotor via the surface area of the pad, not the pistons. That was worded really poorly.... what I'm trying to say is any pressure applied to the pad from the pistons is spread over the surface of the pad acting on the rotor. Even pressure means even heat dispersion and less prone to frying brake pads. Yep... thats it...

Don't do it. Slides turbo's use a journal bearing as opposed to a ball bearing which need the extra oil flow. You'll flood the standard turbo with oil and most likely the excess will come out the turbo's oil seals and go into your exhaust.