
fr0st
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Everything posted by fr0st
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I'm voting Keets at the upcoming election
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A car pc would work out cheaper, and you can watch porn on a car PC! Take that Nismo! www.mp3car.com
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Stock parts are easy to come by, going after market isn't that expensive either for most things. Body work will be the killer, as long as you can mend/hide any rusting bits you should be sweet. Sounds like a good project to do with a few mates. Have you talked to the owner to ask why its been sitting there? Possible fubar'd engine/gearbox?
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Shoping For A Wideband 02. Need Suggestions!innovative ?
fr0st replied to robots's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
I have an Innovative unit, works brilliant. I haven't used anything else but the response time on it seems very quick. Can't fault it at all -
I'd pay money to use it for an hour or so once I get my engine in, then again when its run in and boosted up. Would be great to be able to use a dyno to DIY tune rather than using the road. Would also be cool if you did a cheap R32 reflash & tune. If you want any technical info on it let me know.
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I'm up for it Good times always follow when we try and write mitch off, Happy Birthday!
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Massive Miss Fire Along With A Few Other Issues
fr0st replied to nisskid's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
I finally think I fixed my problem After redoing the entire ignition it was idling fine and ran better than ever up to 3k where it cut out. AFM was reading fine so the only thing left to swap over was the CAS. As soon as I put my mates CAS on it went up to limiter no problem. I opened mine up and there was a heap of fine red dust in there and the rear bearing was screwed, I cleaned the encoder and the optics and it seems to have fixed it. The dodgy coilpacks, looser alternator belt, battery not holding it charge and fouled plugs didn't really help either. But she runs sweet as now -
Don't most rev limiters retard the timing as a soft limiter then remove fuel as a hard limit? Could be that, I don't know enough about the powerFC to know what type of limiter it uses
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Massive Miss Fire Along With A Few Other Issues
fr0st replied to nisskid's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
haha yeh I'll say Car is now sitting in the garage. Such an a-hole of a car, stalls and doesn't start not matter what... let it cool down and started it after a second or two of cranking So now its down to either a mechanical or ignition problem that gets worse after the car is hot. I'll try and get some sort of wasted spark going tomorrow, just have to see what coils I can get from Repco or Supercheap at late night shopping. If its an internal problem then I'll have no choice but to finish my RB30 and put that it... what a shame that would be -
Massive Miss Fire Along With A Few Other Issues
fr0st replied to nisskid's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
It runs crap at both high and low rpm. I've also checked the CAS with a oscilloscope and the megasquirt, both showed consistant pulses. I hope its ignition... I'm running out of things to replace. If the RB30 was ready I'd just replace it with that -
Massive Miss Fire Along With A Few Other Issues
fr0st replied to nisskid's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Sounds very similar to my RB20 which is currently sitting on an island in the middle of an intersection waiting to cool down Small pop on idle, nothing consistant to tell what cyclinder its coming from. Missfires like a hoe at 4000-5000, it boost all the way to 14psi but hits 4000 and craps out. From idle to 2000rpm is missfires and hesitates, 2000-3500rpm it runs normal. Sofar I've replaced the O2 sensor, fuel pump, injectors, spark plugs. O2 sensor was replaced with a wideband, before it died tonight I was logging the AFR's and it was all normal, it was trimming to 14.7 on cruise and idle, 12 on boost (tuned stock ecu, nothing touched other than WOT AFR's). Changing the injectors made it run better but not well, also stopped it running very rich (>9 AFR). I also had a loose alternator belt which made the car a bitch to start from it slipping. ECU & AFM are definately doing there job, both read in the normal (checked via consult) and the fact that the mixtures are correct suggests it not there fault either. With the better part of the fuel system replaced it leaves ignition now. Still using standard coil packs and ignitor, the ignitor I can test using my oscilloscope (will do when I get the f$%king thing home) but since its the last thing left besides swapping the entire engine out I may aswell shell out for a wasted spark setup to rule it out completely. I've got a megasquirt-II waiting to be wired in so it'll make that install a little easier when I wire in the ignition. I had a mechanic look at it but he just gave it back to me broken and said 'get it tuned on a dyno' Best of luck fixing your problems, I'll post up how I go with the new spark system -
RB30DET + GT35R You might want to budget for a twin plate aswell
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R33's are just the import equivalent of the Commodore. No matter how many people write them off theres still a shitload of them haha, the commo smackdown is so harsh
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In the last couple of days my R32 (RB20DET) has been running like crap. Above 1500 rpm is runs like usual but as soon as the revs drop it idles rough and eventually stalls. Theres no atmo bov or leaks anywhere that I could find. I had it stall on me today and wouldn't start back up again, the RAC guy cranked it for a few minutes solid and it eventually started again. He sprayed a bit of fuel past the throttle body which made it worse. His consensus was the fuel reg might have been causing overfueling, the fuel pump seems to be doing its job and it definately has a spark. The only thing I can see being the problem is the injectors, AFM or fuel reg. I'm going to hook up a consolt cable tomorrow to check out the AFM and Injector duty to rule them out. Anyone have any suggestions to what might be the cause?
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Goodyear are doing a buy 3 get one free offer at the moment. I'm getting 4 eagle F1's for $740, not too bad at all
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Sorry, I forgot completely. Net banking is down at the moment but I'll wire the money first thing in the morning.
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OMG a high performance car saved your life! Someone get today tonight!
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Fs Garrett Turbos Gt35/76 - Used
fr0st replied to mrhele's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
What's there HP rating? Are they BB or Bush bearing? Oil and water cooled? -
I'm in for one
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I'd be up for a group buy. With all my ghetto backyard mechanics I should probably invest in one
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Greatest Overtaking Video In Bathurst - Ever
fr0st replied to maclarenf1's topic in Motorsport Discussion & Builds
Man that guy has some massive cojones. Must have some insane brake setup to be that confident in them. -
yep, cost me $60 at Pirtek osbourne park (or enzed.. can't remember but its on frobisher)
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New (or Not) To Sauwa? Introduce Yourself Here!
fr0st replied to tigeryas's topic in Western Australia
Name: Matt Age: 20 I drive a: R32 GTS-T I study/work at: Curtin (Electronics and Communications Engineering), Burswood Conventions, Hyatt Banquits, Hyatt Cafe (all part of a hospitality traineeship) Cruise/event attendance rate: almost non existant because I work most friday/saturday nights Music taste: mainly rap & rnb. I'll listen to most things though Hobbies: cars, electronics, computers, volleyball, CNC machining, web page design/programming, general shenanigans Might be of use contacting me for: Anything relating to bored-engineer.com, installing car stuff for money -
I'll do it for money, I can't drink at the moment Watertemp might be able to be spliced off the stock sensor, oil needs the sandwich plate. Boost and volt meter are easy as.
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I had some GTR lines modified to GTS-t. The rear lines are definately the same but the fronts need to be about 20cm longer I think. IIRC it came out to 60cm once you remove the hard line from the back of the caliper, better you measure it though.