RSVFOURUK

Simple really - Rob the guys whos built the engine reckons the swop will give a noticeable difference because theres much more adjustment with the F con as its 32 bit not 16. This is also well supported by pretty much everyone Ive spoken to and Rob is acknowledged as one of the best mappers in the UK. . So whilst it may not give much more power it should be much more driveable and more economical ( 99 octane aint cheap in the UK ) Also it will cope better with any future uprades should I lose the plot completely. the other deciding factor is ££££ I have to pay for a full map anyway when its run in regardless - A full power FC map costs £300 an HKS one £500 (both from TR Racing) Ive been offered a HKS F con V Pro at a good price and can sell the power fc and the z32s for at least the same money . Bearing in mind the costs Ive already on the engine at £100-£200 ish difference its a no brainer.

Unfortunately a split rear oil cooler pipe caused some (a lot ) of overheating so the engine has just been rebuilt with forged internals and a few other bits spec is now: RB 26 DETT engine just rebuilt by tweenierob at T R Racing Early much stronger N1 R32 block bored out to just under 2.7 Balanced crank with ACL racing bearings Tomei forged rods Tomei forged pistons Trust oil pump Tomei Cams and lifters Tomei adjustable cam pulleys R34 CAS unit Nismo cambelt N1 water pump Tomei metal head gasket /inlet/exhaust manifold gaskets Nismo engine mountings Uprated Nismo clutch to 5 speed manual gearbox Modified ATTESSA AWD (same as Skyline GTR) Rebuilt transfer box Garrett 2860-5 turbos with HKS elbows 700 injectors Full Greddy balanced induction kit Air con removed (as I never use it anyway) Front mounted HKS intercooler , Large HKS aluminium racing Radiator , Remote front mounted HKS thermostatic oil cooler. - Garage Defend carbon cooling panel and plenum cover . Twin Blitz BOVs Full Artel silicone hoses throughout HKS down pipes and one off custom 80mm stainless exhaust system decat pipe now replaced with RB Motorsports racing silencer (was just tooooo loud ). ENGINE MANAGEMENT Apexi Power FC and commander to be changed to F-co V pro when run in (only 100 miles to go ) Mapped by Tweenierob ( T R Racing ) probable settings will be with a Profec B 2 Boost controller running 0.8 , 1.1 bar and 1.5 bar Z 32 AFMs Power Expected 550-600 bhp when run in and fully mapped Car has Apexi N 1 Coilovers suspension with Apexi 9000 wagon springs uprated Whiteline anti roll bars with cusco camber arms Kansai Strut Brace Brakes are from 2001 R34 GTR v spec with R34 hubs , nismo braided hoses & brake stop. Wheels are 18” Ultralite Nurenbergs Tyres are Dunlop NCT run flats It has a full original Nismo Stagea body kit (this as rare as hens teeth even in japan) with series 2 crystal lights Recaro interior with Momo racing steering wheel Carbon facia , switch mounts and instrument face Momo racing steering wheel Carbon facia , switch mounts and instrument face Apexi EL 2 electronic Gauges - Boost , oil pressure , oil temp , fuel pressure,EGT and water temp. All are linked through EL 2 control box with 30 sec playback , warning and peak hold facility Has all Stagea options :- dual air con ( removed ) twin e/sunroofs , self closing tailgate , remote c/locking , cargo net and dog guard, parking sensors etc etc a few pics IMG]http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa23/RSVFOUR/RB%2026%20Stagea/06102008200u.jpg[/img]

thanks for the part no There is no issue with needing longer studs just replacing one that has snapped.

Does not sound like the right way to set the boost . Are your instructions the full ones or the "quick install" one because the latter is not that clear. If you set the boost higher than the ecu will allow as soon as it goes above the permitted level the ecu cuts out the evc5 and you go back onto std boost (0.6 ) The evc5 will not boost over the ecu maximum boost setting (if there is one ).

I have one of these on my rb26 stagea so will try to help. I can send the instructions in english to you but will have to scan them first ( 7/8 pages) so will try to explain first There are 2 settings A & B . These work as boost settings that are independantly set as amounts above the std setting.. Once set , and saved ion memory, you switch from a to b dependant on your choice or switch the evc off to go back to standard boost settings. If you can set A then you can set b - just do the same procedure with button b (on set mode) and set to higher figure. however it sounds like you have not set A at all - If you dont key in and accept the a setting it will default back to std boost (o.6) and i think thats whats occurred, Its very easy to get the evc into dispaly setting mode where you think you are setting the boost but are actually setting the way the boost is displayed, (been there ) If this doea not help email me at [email protected] and I will send the instructions . But it will take a few days. also I am in the UK so allow for the time difference The evc5 is a fully electronic unit and works very well (when set up correct) but is more difficult to set than the std type of boost controllers

Hi Can anyone confirm if there is a alternative to rear wheel studs on a series 1 rs4 ( I mean will any other model s fit) I think I have read they are the ame as pulsars . Anyone help please ?

There are two types - the Nismo one and others The nismo Solid shifter reduces the throw by 25% and is much better than all the others in the quality stakes Most of the rest only reduce throw by 10% so are hardly worth fitting anyway, If the box is perfect with none of the crunching into gears (especially 3rd or 4th) then the nismo one will be ok as the box is not worn and the results are excellent If however there is already any crunching leave well alone as a different gearstick wont solve a problem that is in the gearbox These gearboxes do not have the best change in the world and if worn the short shifter kit can make matters worse especially if its a cheap ebay item.

I have a manual rb26 Stgaea with over 400 bhp in the uk. I fitted a complete brake set up front and rear from a 2001 R34 GTR . This gave a good improvement when I fitted them but after the upgrade I then fitted decent pads , nismo braided hoses , b/stop and did complete fluid change (with decent brake fluid ) . This gave a further improvement that was possibly more than when I fitted the std R34 GTR parts,

Hi I am about to buy and fit the group suspension buy to my RB26 stagea in the UK. Because of shipping costs the parts are being uk sourced . This is not a problem but I just need one detail confirmed. The bilstein shocks (Front r3gtr rear gtst) in the UK are valved as std for a skyline Do I need to get them revalved, ? Thanks

I have tried to fit ( well lined up ) a skyline rear box on a Std RS Four. The petrol tanks appear to be in a different position. There was no way it would fit . Skyline GTS exhausts dont fit GTRs so I would assume that RS Fours AND 260RS exhausts are different. Possibly the back box may be the same shape but could be a different pipe size

Thanks My main worry was the offset bring wrong. As I said front wings are MASA and flared out by about 35mm . Rears may need 'rolling' but 255s fit so it should be ok if the offset is Ok . I will let you know how they go on ( hopefully)

I have always wanted a set of Nismo LM1s and have finally found some with 265 18 35 tyres. They are off an r33 gtr and have a r33 standard offset . I have flared MASA wings on the front with 235s at present which are nowhere near the outside of the wings I have another stagea with 255s on the rear with a small spacer. so it looks like the wheels could fit Anyone know the std offset of a R33 and what I would need to do to make the LM1s fit I am prepared to roll the rear arches if neede be.

Yes thats what I thought hence the idea that a modded rs 4 S would be difficult to spot. Have had the same problem with ordering parts from Japan especially as mine has a rb26 engine in it . I wanted a series 2 rear light as I broke one . The twats would not order them however I described them - even sent them a photograph of my series 1 with series 2 lights . didnt help even though they knew the difference. So I had to get a series 2 chassis no from the auction and quoted that on the order - Job done. I think their minds work in a different way. Its easier to just do it the way they want . So I have had to get chassis nos for all the models and just order parts with the relevant chassis no. Anyway hope you get the right part OK.

To tell a genuine autech car should be easy if its in the flesh . It would have HICAS and an rb 26 engine. Although the engine/gearbox swop has certainly been done ( I have one) I dont know anyone who has considered fitting HICAS to a non HICAS car . Other differences lots more welding at the rear. Speedo is different as auto ones have the gear indicator lights. Also will have different center consul and wont have the 4wd lock, Think they all had lsdiffs as well. Brakes were uprated and the rs260 rear shocks are fork fitting not eye as on the other stageas .Seats were different. etc As the autech car was a rb25 that was modified it is theoretically possible to do exactly the same mods but I cant beleive anyone would do all the above and the bodykit as well .But if they did and used an rsfour S as the starter did I doubt anyone could prove it wasnt an Autech car without the log book/registration document.

I have been looking to buy an rs260 for import to the uk for quite a while and have collected between 20 and 30 auction sheets as comparisons Because some were put in the auctions more than once I asked for and kept the chassis numbers so I could tell which were fresh vehicles. Hence I have about 20 rs260 chassis numbers. They all start WGNC34 which is the prefix for all 4wd stageas . The number seems to have been given to the car in order of manufacture. From the numbers I have there is no pattern to the chassis number as all rs260s were cars specially ordered and then modified by autech. There certainly does not appears to be a block of numbers for autech cars. Originally they all had rb25 engine allocated to them and the vin plate on the ones I have seen has started rb25 not rb26. so I dont think the vin number is a reliable way of confirming its a rs260 unless one goes back to nissan with it. This my experience but If anybody has better info I will happily defer to them.

Hi I neeed to uprate/replace my suspension on my Stagea and its obvious that down under you know far more about it than we do in the Uk as stageas are quite new to us . I have tried reading all the way through the all suspension threads and cant find the Bilstein part numbers for the shocks for a Stagea that I am sure are the correct ones. If I have missed the info I am happly to plead stupidity if someone can PLEASE either pm me ,tell me or simply give me the right link for the parts in the Stagea suspension group buy . I can find gts , r32, r34gtt but not the stagea one in advance (I hope )

If it was in the uk I would have it as a spare. Have you a link to where they can be purchased

Engine is RB26 twin turbo and gearbox is 5 speed manual .

Because I already had the EVC5 which was fitted to the car when imported. Although fitted it was always the plan not to use it in the uk untill the engine had been fully checked . As soon as this was done the power fc was fitted Also as the car only has standard turbos I did not need more than two boost seettings as the max boost I will be using is 0.9 bar which is the accepted safe limit in the uk. If I upgrade the turbos then this will be an option I may look at.

Took the car in to be fitted with Power Fc , EVC5 electronic boost control and Tomei uprated fuel pump, Previously had apexi power induction and custom exhaust -HKS downpipes , 3" decat and 3 1/2 " pipe and custom rear box. After a full on the road mapping by Perfect touch ( one of the best uk skyline tuners) we ended up with 413 bhp @ 0.9 bar ( has std turbos) and 340 ftlbs of touque at only 3500 rpm Car is a joy to drive in a straight line but I now need a serious suspension upgrade -Will probably use this sites reccomendations -Bilsteins with whiteline sway bars and caster kits etc. Also some more pics after some more mods