GunMetalR33

Depends on if you have a 32 or 33???? If its a 33 then its all electronic which makes it easy but if its a 32 then you will have to block some stuff off. Sorry I cant help you on the 32 side of things...

OK, so I am staring to get sick of 200rwkw and would like to increase the power up to about 250rwkw, my car is a r33 gts-t series 1. I have a plan for this but first here are the Mods that I currently have made to the engine. HKS Pod With CAB. 3' turbo back zaust. FMIC. APEXI Boost Controller (PFC). APEXI Power FC Pro. Adj Zaust Cam Gear. Ceramic 5 Puck Clutch. Oil Catch Can. NGK Irraway 7 plugs. Supra Twin Turbo Fuel Pump (Jap Spec) It sould be up to the task. I think thats it... So heres the plan: Get a GCG 450hp Hi-Flow, Nismo Fuel Pressor Reg, Z32 AFM and a re-tune... I was thinking of other options instead of the hi-flow which include GT-RS, GT25-35, GT28 etc etc but from what I have heard the hi-Flow should make 250rwkw and is cheaper and easier to fit, plus its EPA friendly The big factor here is going to be funds (I dont have a money tree :{) Sorry about the longish thread... Any comments will help

I think getting a Z32 AFM is obviously the best solution but if you cant afford one at the time then this might be a good tempory fix... Or you could just run less boost and not max out your standard AFM I have my car tuned in this way becuase I run about 14psi and only have a rb25det AFM and I dont have any issues, keeping in mind that I dont change anything setup wise without a dyno run (as Lithium pointed out)...

www.greenline.jp

Had a good run with a silver R33 SII yesterday on Kambah Pool Road, is it anyone from here? if so what mods do you have, I had a little trouble pulling away from ya???

I do the heal and toe thing but I would'nt bother double clutching....

I heard somewhere that if you tap the top casing of the stock bov down with a hammer it will pre-load the spring a little and make it tighter. Does any one see this working???

I have a veilside one, but know body seems to like them. Personally I think they are sexy as.

See link: Cool Tyre

Thanks for the pics dude...

Mate take it easy If you read what I said then you would have noticed that I mentioned that this would only work on a standard turbo setup meaning that 14 psi would be the maxium boost being run. I dont know about your car but my AFM maxes out at about 14 psi so your only guessing a couple of load points at most. I am not tring to imply that this is the best solution, only that it was a way around tuning the standard turbo setup when your AFM "occasionally" Maxes out...

Now that would be tight of the tuner

can you lock a PFC HC ?????

I agree with Roy to an extent. If your tuner maxed out your AFM on the Dyno then he would know the load point on the fuel map where it occured. This means that at that Max out point the fuel grid would flat line from left to right. If you know this flat line point then you can "guess" how much fuel will be needed after the max out point by following the pattern of duty increases from bofore the AFM Max out. Just to be safe you add a little more fuel to each cell after the flat line which means at full boost when you max out your afm you might be running a little rich... I should say that I think this is only possible with a standard turbo setup due to the linier boost curve, as a steady curve allows you to guesstamate load after a AFM Max out. Turbos with a steap boost curve are harder to predict. My 2 cents

looks the goods mate, arnt you worried about people stealing your amp if you mount it where it can be seen easily???

Hard to tell from the pic but I think that it WILL vent through all the holes...

Buddy clubs mate !!!!!

neg camber should help. You can get a camber kit from any good suspention place...

The engine light will also come on if your AFM maxes out. If you are running 1.3 bar with the standard AFM then it will max out for sure.

Come on guys, what would you do ? ? ? ? ? Some body must have an opionion on this...

It could be your boost controllers, I have the same problem.

Hi to all, I have had a set of 19's (wheels) on my car for awhile now. The fronts have 1 cm spacers on them which cause the wheel to sit in line with the inside edge of the guard. When I hit big bumps the right hand wheel touches the guard for a split second but the left is fine. I was told that the right hand shock wears faster than the left so I am thinking about getting new shocks. Options are as follows: 1) Koni adjustable shocks $1200 2) Bilstein Shocks $900 3) White Line OR King Springs (harder to stop to scrapping but same height) $300~ NOTE : If I get the shocks I will upgrade to better springs but not straight away. Any advise would be great.

aarrrr f*ck!!!!!

sure, If you dont get anyone locally then let me know!!!

I have the full Zaust from turb back. PM if interested...