GunMetalR33

We broke the notch off the cam last night and re-positioned the CAS and she STARTED!!!! Base timming is spot on now and all that's required is a re-tune of the ecu and hopfully she will run smooth as.

So this afternoon we are going to break the half moon of the cam shaft and re-position the CAS to the right in the hope of retarding the timing some what.

Yea, We measured the timing with the timing light on a lead between the 1st coil and sparky.

Is there anyone in canberra that could lend us a CAS for a CA18DET.

From what I could tell from last night the half moon was still on the exhaust cam so there is only one way we could put it in. Is there any other way for the timing to be this far out without it being the CAS? Also does anyone know if a rb25det CAS will work in a CA18DET????

lol

ha ha ha ha, For some reason da magna get me no chicks, even with da sliding performance twin turbo setup. What am I doing wrong???

arr fair enough, its cool...

Already started a topic for this, Oh well yours is more descriptive anyway...

Yeap, fully worked by sliding performance

Big fat whale ass is better than a big fat pink care bear

What do I have as my avatar?

Do you guys think that I should be using plugs with a heat range of 6 or 7. The reason I ask is because I can only get irridiums 7's with a gap of 1.1. If I want a gap of .8 I have to go the iriway7's and they cost about $150! I can get irridium 6's with a .8 gap for $100 delivered??? I am worried that the 6's might cause a little pre ignition and cause higher knock levels at 17-18 psi...

Hi guys, My mate and I just put a ca18DET into his 1200 ute. We have had big troubles getting it started and have checked that there is plenty of fuel, the fuel return line and pressure reg are fine and the spark is also fine. The CAS seems fine becuase if we spin it the injectors all fire like they should ect... We checked the timing last night and it is a mile out. It does not improve by moving the CAS to both ends either. When we put the first piston to TDC the notch on the crank pully is right next to the marker where it should be so I am guessing that the timing light should be reading correctly. Any ideas as to why the timing would be so far out? We have to point the gun on the other side of the pully just to see the notches when it flashes???

Yea I also forgot to mention that I did play with launch control a while back which basically just retards the timing, hence stops the fuel from igniting in the cyclinder. Now most of this fuel ends up exploding in the zaust manifold or in the mufler but some of it would have ended up left in the cylinder??? I have gapped my current plug right out to .75 and am getting some irridiums with a pre set gap to .8 this week. So far with them gapped out I have hap no flat spotting and there is no fuel in the catch can. I have bosch coil installed which I think are fine. I do how ever have spacers between my turbo and the zaust manifold. Now one of these spares had an inside diameter that was about 6-7 mil to small thus creating a huge restriction. I have grided that out and the spark issue seems to have gone and I gained a considderable amount of power. So I will monitor the catch can for fuel with the new plugs in and see what happens, if there is still fuel buiding up the injectors with come out (suck a B*tch of a job ) and tested. So they can test to see if the plugs are leaking can they? Sorry for the long posts, it could turn out to be an interesting thread. I will keep everyone posted as to the results of the experiments I am guessing I will be taking out those injectors pretty soon...

1. Partial throttle, idle were done when tuned, but acceleration enrichment settings and Cold and hot start settings I am not sure about. Where in the PFC HC is this info? and how can I make sure its correct? 2. The black smoke only happens when its hard to start which is about 1-3 times every six months or so. Basically I turn the engine over as usual BUT it needs to be turned over several times before starting. Then when it finally starts it blows 1 puff of black smoke. But like I said it does not happen much??? Its this that makes me think that its a leaky injector... I am going to start by getting a new set of plugs. The irraway 7's that I have in there are almost 2 years old and they flat spot a bit. I have since change the their gap from .6 to .75 aswell. Flat spotting would be the same running rich in this context right? So the flat spotting could also be causing the fuel in the catch can???

thanks for the reply SK. The fuel mix was something like 12:1 and was a straight line on the dyno graph when it was last tuned. Previously mentioned: "I put nismo 555cc injectors in myself. BUT i did not change the O-rings when I did it. Since then, some times it can be a little hard to start but not often. You just have to turn it over a bit more and she starts with a puff of black smoke which I guess is unburnt fuel." Should I take the injectors back out considdering they are only about 1 year old? Or just put it on the dyno again?

anyone?

Could worn O-rings be causing the injector to leak, remembering that they are side feed injectors?

I put nismo 555cc injectors in myself. BUT i did not change the O-rings when I did it. Since then, some times it can be a little hard to start but not often. You just have to turn it over a bit more and she starts with a puff of black smoke which I guess is unburnt fuel. The injectors are only 3-6 moonths old though...

Done and done mate. I appreciate all the comments that all you have made. So this is where we stand at the moment: I changed the oil and it probably still had a little bit of fuel in it. There is new motul oil in there now and the boost is down to 17.4 psi. Knock is low as always and my irraway 7's have been gapped back up to .75. The car pulls fine but not as hard as before. However it is alot smoother as I think it was surging a little before. Tomorrow I will gap the plugs out to .8 and see how she goes. I hope this is the end of this thread, but I have the feeling that I will be changing the name of it to gunMetal rebuild soon enough... Would $3500 be enough I cant afford to smash into my home load deposit fund to much more.

OK, I have just drained the oil and was wondering if there is some way to flush out all the left over oil in the engine before I put the new stuff in... Any ideas, products etc???

update: Just sneaked out of the office, and went for a qiuck run. Guess WHAT? She went Ka Boom. Na, just joking. I wound the boost down to 1.26 bar (17.5 psi give or take) and the power delivery is much smoother but not quiet as vicious. I think it was surging a tiny bit before now that I think of it. So on the weekend I will re-gap the plugs to .75, set the boost at 1.25 bar and change the oil AGAIN and empty the catch can. Will keep you guys posted. At this point I think the fuel in the can is a result of blow by mixed with some hardcore flat spotting. The fuel will endup in the can before any oil as it will turn to a thin vapour quicker than the oil will... Hopfulling I wont be see anymore fuel in the can once I have taken the above measures.

Yea, I will re-grap the plugs to .75 then wind down the boost till she stops flat spotting. Does anyone know the coversion between psi and bar, as in what is 17psi in bar?

I only just replaced the oil 1 month ago, I had 245rwkw before I shaved down a restricting turbo spacer to the correct diameter. Car is a lot faster now... I estimate about 260rwkw... Plugs look good, a nice bronzy like colour but not too light... So you reakon I should change the oil again? This motul stuff aint cheap