GunMetalR33

the fluttering indicates air going back through your turbo which normally happens on cars without BOVs when the trottle closes. Since you are experiencing this issue with the throttle open you must have a blockage in the piping after your turbo and before your trottle. My guess would be something in your intercooler???

yes the light will stay on, but its not that bad...

Sweeeet, That is good news mate, put me down for one. I reciently hit a huge bump in the middle of the road and now it seems like my car is steering from the back. I think maybe its a toe in/out issue but it looks like I am going to need a wheel alignment in the back. Anyway I dont want to do this until I have the hicas replacment bar fitted... would the steering from the back be a toe / camber issue after hitting a big bump with both rear wheels?

So far we have interest from: nsta x 1 gunmetalr33 x 1 mid life crisis x 2 So 4 all up...

thanks for that geoff, Come on guys we need to drum up some interest.

Then there were 2. 33's are electric but you cant just pull the plug. The best way is by removing the entire rack and replacing it with a steal bar like the ones GTRGeoff (SkylineGeoff)makes. Hey Geoff, your getting plenty of plugs here

I smell a group buy, GTRGeoff?

I think GTRGeoff makes the bars for about $110 and they would get to you a lot quicker... Any one want a group by from Geoff? Maybe he will give a small discount

ha ha ha ha, well said... :lol:

If that was the case I would have thought that it would be worse the hotter it got, instead it only happens when cold.

I get small (misses) but only for the first boost or so, once the plugs warm up she's fine. I am running cold plugs (Irraway 7 NGK's from memory). The misses might also be caused by a air leak after the AFM which closes when the pipes are hot??? I will get pics up so, they will be from a mobile though :{

How are you coils going lazy-bastard? I noticed that your mounting bracket might be bolted to the block and the engine bay, remember that the engine needs to move... Also have you earthed the mounting bracket with the E wire? Is so then using the supplied + and - from the earth should work fine. Also the rb25det ignitor is also fine with this conversion. I have had it running 19psi now with very small ign cuts from time to time but overall I am very happy with it. I will take pics of my setup if anyone wants to see it.

may I please get an SAU email account. I was a paying member for the last 2 years, have not paid this year though :{

How do I get one of these email accounts?

thrust baring may be on its way out. Dont worrie about it until you need a new clutch. Unless it gets worst and effects the clutch...

Anyone?

Price update to $250, someone must need some spare coils?

Sorry about the late reply. I could not log on all last week. Post has been updated, they are for a series 1 rb25det

Item: 6 coil packs for rb25det series 1 Location: canberra, will post at buyers expense Item Condition: no flat spots at 14 psi never ran higher than that Reason for Selling: upgraded when I got a gt30 and injectors etc Price and Payment Conditions: $200 Contact Details: email at [email protected] OR PM me Price update

grease

Are the pics on this thread bar and plate? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=101027

I think people are refering to ceramic dust from a stock zaust wheel after it sh*ts it self. paper is a long way from ceramic so all is good mate

only want the right side head light, how much for it? only if its not faded

I agree, 50 hp is too much NAWS

wet system...