GunMetalR33

I agree with others mate, you should write in IMO. I hate those one sided reporting programs!

^^^^^^ there might be some truth in that oh yea, south side is da best side (about 4 years to late)

Thanks for you reply TrustR33, I have allways had strut braces front and back and this handling feeling is new to my car. Happened after I got a little bit of air over a rise on the road. So atm my wheel alignment settings are fine, and so are my shocks. So this is why I reakon my Bushes are a bit worn. The issue seems worse on hot days, on cold morning in canberra I can barly notice it.

I think your right r33_racer, it feels under responsive in the back, what would new bushes for the back cost. SK: Hicas has been removed with a esential lock bar.

OK, I finally got the wheel alignment re-done and its setup close to what SK suggested above. I also got the shocks tested by pedders and they are fine. Now, on cold mornings all is fine and the car handles well under any driving condition, but it seems to play up as stated earlier when the temp is hotter, but not as bad as it was before. I have not checked the bushes yet, but pedders said that a couple were on their way out, but not urgent. This prob is now only showing its head after high power run or hard cornering at higher speeds. I am guessing bushes? Any other thoughts?

Redline is good but a bit Xie. Covered heaps try searching

If you have a series one you should have a ignitor unit at the end of your coil pack rack at the back of the engine on the black plastic cover. Series 2 25's dont have a seperate ignitor pack.

have you done this, if so how do they look and have you had any issues with the lights after doing this?

My r33 has one yellow light, Is it possible to simply remove the plastic from the lights?

SK, I will let you know how your alignment settings go.

The springs and shocks were purchased together about 6 months ago and have been really good until about 1 month ago when I hit a rise on a dogy road. This leads me to think that the issue is camber and toe related. I will take the car to peddars on the weekend and get an alignment done to SK's suggestions and see what happens. They can also do a shocker test cant they?

Sk, I went to the suspension place that did my wheel alignment and explained the problem. They put the car up on jacks to have a look at the bushes and ball joints for about 5 min and said they were fine. He then took the car for a drive and reckons the rear bilstiens are bouncing back to fast kinda like po go sticks casing the car to feel loose in the back. He said that it would cost about $300 to get the valves fixed. I dont really believe his explantion, but i did get some air going over a big arch in a old country road and the shocks would have bottomed out then. I have had a look at the back of the car and can see by eye that the left rear has more toe and both have substantial camber. Any further sugestions SK, or anyone else. I am not too keen to rip out the shocks and springs again especially if that is not the problem.

thanks for the info SK, My r33 has been lowered with king spring lows (not super lows) and bilstien shocks. Now for a stupid question, which ones are the castor rods? I think I know but am not sure.

As the title says I have some handling issues at higher speeds and braking. The steering feels like the rear of the car is reacting late which makes the rear of the car feel loose???? I have the following wheel alignment settings: FRONT toe = LH(1.7mm) RH(1.8mm) camber = LH(-1.75deg) RH(-1.10deg) caster = LH(4.38deg) RH(3.96deg) REAR toe = LH(2.0mm) RH(1.8mm) camber = LH(-1.67deg) RH(-1.79deg) I also added a HICAS lock bar BEFORE the alignment. ANY IDEAS?

I have the same one, happy with it. Its chunky but light

I was under the impression that when the light was on it was experiencing issues, but might not be completely disabled. I am no expert but I cant think of anything else it could be if it has not happened again.

you can get the endless kit from www.greenline.jp NOTE that this is a replacment bar for the Hicas rack. So it removes the Hicas steering all together which saves you wieght but you will get the Hicas light in the dash board on all the time.

I reckon you wont like the feeling if you actually go into a real slide, Hicas tends to kick you back the other way before you can blink an eye Boy meets gutter style!

yes the Tomie solution does fix the dash light prob. One advantage to the bar solution is that it is crommoly and saves weight.

Sorry Geoff but I could not wait. For those that dont want to use the Tomie solution and prefer the bar, I got an Endless one of greenline which cost $150 to my door... Geoff, not trying to kill your business mate.

Leigh, do you know timmy, the guy with the M3?

maybe a blocked cat?

thanks heaps mate!

Thanks for the quick feedback mate. Thats going to be a great help! Seems like a faily straight foward procedure, the only think I am a little concerned about is poppnig the wheel baring seal.

Guys, I would like to replace one of my front wheel studs as it was drilled out in order to remove a nut (long story involving some tyre place Dick heads and a rattle gun :{ ) Anyway I think the process is as follows: Please correct me if I am wrong. remove wheel (easy) remove brake caliper (easy) remove hub ??? insert stud in back of hub put every thing back Is there anything I should be aware of ? ? ? ?