bogcock

yes they interchange

sorry i read ur post wrong, i thought u sed u think they fail from wheel speed alone...

damn those school holidays HAHA

i have for sale the following walbro intank 500hp fuel pump used for 20,000ks with bracket etc after $100.00 and the in tank fuel level sender unit, after $50.00 pm me for offers reason for sale is im no longer using a fuel tank, i have got a custom fuel cell, and 3 bosch 040 pumps hanging off it

which is it mate, theres a difference. a 32gtr crank needs a collar if going into a 33gtr... on that note i need a 33gtr crank so if you hav 1 sell it 2 me!!

thats your perogative mate. i know for a fact that the egt is the cause and all i was doing was offerring a chance to prove it to you all

go for reliability before power i say. turbos then fuel pump ecu injectors, THEN cams etc

as it states, single or full set not fussed, pm me if you have any

and if anyone has a spare ceramic wheel and shaft lying around, send it to me and i will put it into my machine and spin it up to 300,000rpm and leave it for 10 min at that rpm, then i will apply heat for 10 min with the assistance of an oxy torch with accetelene bias so as not to melt the thing. open to offers. i will record the findings on video

i never once said they will throw a wheel off boost, i said the damage occurrs during that period. the wheel will throw once spooled. thankyou for the comments, but not good enough im afraid

def turbos... then ecu and injectors

poncams are good because they use the stock valvetrain. if you want big power you will need more lift and around 264 duration.. procams are better, but you need to change valve springs, retainers etc for a stock gtr (internally) cams wont really give too much benifit. ive seen stock cammed gtrs running 600hp with no problems. attend to other parts 1st, such as turbos, ecu, injectors zorst etc

depends on the setup. usually more lift = more flow, but you also need duration. the problem lies in getting a good combo as at high rpm you can get valve slap, eg over revving. to compensate you can use tougher valve springs etc. but it depends on the lift. if the lift is more than the springs can take the springs will bind, or over compress.. VERY bad. if you need high revs eg nat asperated, you need less duration more lift... to raise the rev range use as a guide as this may not be correct to some out there

lift= mm valve lift duration= how long its open in degrees timing= difference between inlet exh lift

as i said, i need a front bar for a r33 s1 skyline preferably r400, but atm any will do damaged, undamaged i dont care, as i need to modify and respray it anyways thanx

pm sent

front bar sold.

i think its so you can bleed the line easier

anyway, i have had my say as previous in this thread, so read it, make your own decision. this theory has been tested though, so accept it time for work:(

its not so much the wheel heating quicker its the wheel COOLING quicker than the steel shaft, causing the damage

whats the point of a radar detector. if your speeding, adn you get picked up by radar, the coppers allready know ur speeding, so whats the radar detector guna do for you??? it detects the radar emissions once they hit the car. TOO LATE!!!!

its a resonator, used to take the "lumpyness" out of your exhaust sound. so basically yeh, its for emissions

cubes i was thnkn the same thing, but i couldnt be f**ked typing it HAHA

i agree

hes obviously running wih an exceptional tune, and/or an auto. drag racing is wot for hopfully 6 seconds constant heat and stress causes failure