central coast person

yeah that would be me. Work doesnt have parking spots so im trying to get a r32 as a everydayer\track one day

dealer price is about $125 so retail would be $200-$300

Thats one of the 2 parts. That regulator is the GTR one and is not the right one you want, 22660-08u00. I will price it at work tomorrow. You should definatly look into the AAC valve more so because it should adjust when you turn it because you are opening the valve, It may just be conjested ........ still mine is faulty and it adjusts idle You should take it off and check it.

My car does this, ive got redline in there but it got better after 5000km and now it only does it if its a cold morning for the first minute (hardly does it at all now but) I changed my clutch and it didnt not fix the problem but i never thought the alighment of the clutch would cause a crunch. Just worn syncros How long has the Redline been in there?

I have the exact same problem as stated above and i run a OBD scaner in my car everwhere i drive and i never has picked an error up except when my coilpacks failed once. Which said error 21. The problem is when the engine is shaking and about too stall its not reading the right amount of air - fuel and being so in the morning on a cold start it is using somthing known as the secondary air system and not the throttle body and induction pipes. The secondary air system is a IACV-AAC valve a few pipes and a IACV- air regulator, they open and close as the temp rises to adjust cold idle. The only problem is on start up they are feeding tghe wrong message and causing a rough start until you tap the accelorator and use the throttle body and throttle position sensor to adjust the idle up. One of those two parts or even both could be stuffed on your car and thats why its such a rough start up. Its about $428 (my price) Retailing ($900+) for a AAC valve and i cannot price the regulator up yet as the part number is a dead end and ill need to use the 2010 FAST program at work as i only do mazda parts in the office up the road and only have old fast on my home computer.

i kept spinning out in the wet until i slid into a wall at about 60km head on ..... and after that had 6 months to fix the car. It turned out too be as simple as a camber and alightnment problem (all tyres were fine but the rear left was out by -6.31) and also PSI tyre pressure had to be changed in the wet for the tyres i was using. The car wont slide for more than half a second now its been double checked.

Definatly a sensor of some sort or regulator, probily faulty I-AAC. I had to price one for a skyline today having the same problems. Its about $700 new from Nissan. If you pull out the throttle position sensor plug aswell it should go into limp mode as well (just to confirm it is not your AFM pull the Throttle position sensor plug out, the ecu should just be going into limp and running of a maped graph)

haha yeah babe! blew you some hot kisses ayy. Lara was so jelious.

i saw you go past my work jason man, saw you heading to wyoming at 4pm

You cannot bed the piston rings into the cylinders and allow a 'seal' if you use a synthetic. There designed to coat the walls and stick there which is only good after the seal has been created between the ring and cylinder wall, what happens if you do use the oil or even any oil additives is the oil travels up the cylinder when its glazed because you have not allowed room for bedding and you burn the oil off as the ring drags the oil too the top of the cylinder. You can tell if you have glazed it because all your oil will burn off fairly fast. I use 15w-40 penrite everyday oil when bedding an engine in, Also change the oil & filter at 10km(im really picky with this as there are lost of fine particles that need to be removed), 100km, 1000km, 3000km too make sure it beds well. The oil is $30 for 5L and filter is about $10 so its actully a cheaper process than it sounds.

Agreed Redline is the top if the group V oils for a reason. It last for ages and it work in any engine in all conditions environmentally and engine wear. I agree that the choice of oil and performance comes down to a road test but Redline, without a problem wether it ge the engine or gear oils will always improve a car in some way. E.G my car has only 7000km and after the first 2000km of it beding in the oil already makes the engine more free flowing resulting in a more powerful feeling-responsive engine in the cold mornings, so its even showing positives on a re-build street tuned engine. Only thing i would see people not buying and saying fair enough use a different oil ..... would be because of retail price.

Im not sure if the ECU you are using has the air regulator operating but i suspect so as it runs in conjunction with the AAC valve. As the thread above states it hard to get too but you will have to visually expect that the shutter is not jamed in a position. I.E At -20 degrees the valve is fully open at 20 degrees it is half open and at 60 degrees it is compleatly closed I am ony guessing and not sure as MAP sensors are tricky but its worth a shot at checking if the valve is faulty. Another trick is the attach a 12volt DC battery to it Positive to terminal number one and negative to number 2 Say the surrounding area temp was 20 degrees it would open half way (allow a few mins for it to slowly open) and measure the resistance and is should be near 80 The AAC valve should be checked as well, Somtimes the spring is stuffed or the plunger on the switch so also have a look there. Also check the resistance on the AAC valve which shoul read somewhere near 7. Keep in mind a vac leak will give faulty readings through these valves so thats another place too look while pulling these bits out. (all hoses around the air control system of the car)

If you want THE best engine oil get Redline 10w40. It is a perfect weight, is extreamly good in cleaning engines, frees your engine up, sticky as ..... hehh and also can quieten noise engine bearings in 5min (seen it work). Obiously the price is painful and you have too get 2 bottles which will cost about $300 all up, but its worth it in the long run knowing your car is going too live a long life.

BAHAHA ^^^^^^ you better do what he says

My tyres cost $275 ea, with dicount! and i still get axle tramp and its a NA RB25 bored out to 2.7 (with genuine old bushes in the rear) +1 for bushes. I would get the bushes checked first and changed to superpro's, most shops do inspections cheap as chips and you also will find out if anything else is not good under there, i doubt the suspention is helping the bushes in there.

Hit the person in the head who sent that fan too you

BAHAHAHAHA funny i hadnt searched any Qld dealers because i live in N.S.W so yeah just back tracked a year for a few mintues there.....

Cannon are a pain. They drone like hell on any NA skyline, you need like 2 resinators to get rid of the drone, too much pointless spending. Get somthing that works well. Definatly worth the $2000 kakimoto R cat-back and custom cat, front pipe and HPC extractors

Yeah i see the sate now i was excited when i saw it not noteing the date, still awesome though! Its still 'Available' which miss led me. Didnt mean too put that there. If you look down lower on there discription where they type the info its a typo where it says 6 speed.

1996 Nissan Skyline R33 GTR 400R Vehicle ID S4840 Source Current Stock Transmission 5 speed (typo) Kms 8,000 Colour White Price $102,000 AUD Status Available 1996 Nissan Skyline R33 GTR 400R, 2.8 litre coupe 6 speed 7,876 kms White ABS brakes Airbags 400R factory options All power options and airconditioning Condition notes: Auction grade 5 A. Virtually unmarked and a true museum piece. Full personal inspection report plus additional pictures are available to serious buyers on the day of auction. But be quick as it goes up for sale early. http://www.prestigemotorsport.com.au/modul...hp?StockID=4840 I wish i won the lotto, definatly would love a r33 like this for show

yeah the MAF sensor is sending messages that dont add up to the ecu just because of that little bit of air passing through the sensor. Just like previous post, your probily going to have to move the hose further away from the MAF sensor.

Hmm a headgasket (once) must have blown or somthing similar so your coolant had oil contamination at one stage and it reacted like this, just like all coolan do to oil. I call in penaut butter ERM go for a drive, when my car is running it varies between 77-81 degrees once its at temp (run ECU talk trip meter non stop, so i can monitor things like this all the time) You will have to monitor the good old temp guage. Dont stray too far from your house just incase anything starts to overheat. Try a drive and check fluid levels before worrying anymore. It should all be fine One more important thing is when you installed the thermostat, did you make sure the jiggle valve on the thermostat was place at the top. OEM has it enscribed in the metal. Also i recommend giving the 2 temp sensors near the top hose attached to the top end of the engine a clean. Simply get a socket and unscrew them and there should be a little brass piece protruding from under the wire and cap that measures temps. This may have some sludge on it and is worth a clean (there are 2)

Yes just make sure the sensor plug is in all the way, if it is then make sure there is no leak from a hose. Check these things first being free and the most obious. Remember always check the most stupid simple things first

You are describing an idleing problem. Most likely related to the AAC-IAC valve also could be other sensor. Did you remove and wires when you did this? TPS or MAF sensor. Any of these could have the wire conectors not pluged in properly as i know the MAF one is very hard to push sometimes and mine clicks 2 times so its missleading, without the second click it runs ruff an stalls over 2000rpm. Recomend Taking all pipes/tubes off and looking for leaks and splits. Clean all wires with a wire cleaner and then electrical conector aerosols. Re tighten all your bolts and claps back togther double checking nothing is missed then make sure all electrical plugs are clicked in place.

yeah it is deinatly has to be a s13 (i dont think its an NX coupe because it doesnt have flipy up headlight) Also found a picture before the hack job. http://www.abc.net.au/news/stories/2010/06/01/2914727.htm Serves him right for steeling and speeding on paramatta rd too probily in the wet =\