DaFuca

Yes, and cheap, sorry dont have much else to say about nexen, they are a bit like Clear Tyres, and Sava's.. Be alright for just slow city driving, but if ya plan on doing anything where you need grip, look else where for a tyre.

if the buckle is only tiny, i mean as you said a couple of mm. then yes when it is balanced the hop will almost disapear, but i mean if you are getting up around 160 - 200 km/h then you may still feel something, your bes bet would be put the rim with the most hop in it on the rear of the car then that way you will feel it even less.

Yeah the Federal SS's in the 265 R 18's are normally based at Retail Price around the $250 a tyre mark, and even at that retail price, the tyre joints are still making good coin, so i have no idea where that first place got his prive of $320 a tyre for 255's, I think they doubled purchase price to get that sale price.. scammers. You will also find that the closer you get to the middle of a city the lower the price will get too, if you are in the middle of nowhere you will pay top dollar for them cos they are a specialty item, where as the city stores tend to stock them cos they see more cars that run them, so when price huinting, call an area that has a fairly dense residentual area near by and a few tyre joints close, that way you know you are getting the best prices they can do to beable to compete, also some times doesnt hurt to throw in, oh a mate of mine got the same size down the road for $10 less, i thought it was on the same brand too, normally they will say yeah listen I will match ya half way, and you can normally squeeze $5 - $10 more out of them. D...

Sorry for the double post, but this is not on the same lines as my last post, I am looking to see if anyone has ran 245 45 R 18's on there cars and what brands and how did they perform, Im looking at a new car and they run this size as factory fitment, and I was trying to find out what brands in this size you have used, and how many k's they have done and what price you paid for them.

National Tyre Wholesalers 14 Yallourn Street Fyshwick ACT 2609 Ph: 1800 050 060 Contact them and they will be able to give you the name and number of a federal dealer in your area.

The RS's are great but the treat wear is higher and will last half the life of the SS's, personally I would go for the SS's, you can get almost 2 sets for the same money and they will last a lot longer, and I know that the SS's stick really well on the road normally, but it is up to you, the RS's do look "HORN" on almost anything performance.

Does the tyre leak now? I would get the rim fixed or replaced and then see if you can find someone to fit the tyre to the rim, and check if it holds air, you may be freaking out for nothing. a tear on the inside of the bead normally doesnt mean the end of the world for tyres, normally just makes them more interesting to get seated on the bead of the rim. I'd find out if it is stuffed or not before you worry about getting another tyre.

Yeah I agree... No bead sealer will SUCCESFULLY fix a tear in a bead. and here in adelaide we refer to tyrepower as Captain Snooze, every tyre power store I contact or know of people going to the untrained owners and managers are always in a daze or even in some cases asleep (Hackham Store) for most of the day. But try bead sealer but to be honest silicon has better holding qualities than 99% of the bead sealers on the market. we normally only put them over patches from puncture repairs and also around beads on trailer rims when they just will not stop leaking cos of rust issues. 235's are a little small for a 9 inch rim they are mainly made for 7.5 - 8.5 inch rims, but they still go on 9" rims ok, and even if a tyre place did blame damage on the size of the tyre on a wider rim, wouldnt you assume that is the 235 is too small for the rim that it would then make it easier to take off the rim as it wouldnt need as much work to get off? Only my personal thought, but dont ask me, i only manage a tyre business and have been fitting tyres from 6x3 inch rims to 26x15 inch rims for the last 9 years. a tear on the inside of the bead normally means that the tyre was pulled the wrong way when it was being taken off, or it was hooked on a sharp bit of the damaged rim, if the rim had no sharp bits on it, being a low profile tyre, and someone with little experiance in fitting such sizes, then it would make me believe that the person tried to remove the tyre incorrectly. as there is no other way to get a tear in the inside of the bead. cos damage mounting a tyre would be on the outside of the bead, due to the way that a tyre is fitted... and yes the last comment posted by Beer Baron is correct, the likely hood of getting something from a reputable tyre company for damaging a tyre that is second hand on a damaged rim is very very small, if at most you may be lucky enough that they will do a better price on a new one for you.. it is a very hard thing to prove that they did damage it, and that someone else that may or may not of taken the tyre off to repair it in the past could of damaged it. you cannot prove it.. but goodluck and i hope my opinion did answer some of your questions.

What size rim and what size tyre? Is the damage on the out side of the bead? or on the insideof the bead? got any photo's? i might be able to help you out a little.

the toe is the way your wheels face, if they point inwards, outwards or straight ahead.

If you have no joy with the responses that you have heard, i have noticed with cars that are "lighter in the back end" than normal cars, to run a slightly lower tyre pressure in the rear wheels, see if this helps, i would recomend about 32 - 34 in th rear and about 36 in the front. see if that helps with the bouncy effect.

The last set of breaks i got have done me about 50,000 in the front so far and the rears are getting changed today and have done just over 70,000. I have always heard that it is best to get ya rotors machined with every set of pads.

It sounds to me like your power steering fluid is low. check that, if not, look at maybe getting a mechanic to look at ya rack cos it might be on its last legs.

powder coating i believe is a bit thicker than 2 pac paint. you could try it, but it might take a while... i would prolly look at getting it machined. would save you a lot of time. Let us know how you go with it.

I think you will find any tyre in a semi-silica or a full silica, will be quiet on the road. but good to know, i do a heap of long drives to country vic from adelaide, and i would like to know what tyres are quiet.

If you are looking at getting ya rims pollished, do not even think about sand blasting them, get them machined or sanded, but not blasted.

If your wheels are alloy, then no you cannot widen them. but if they are steel wheels?? not sure about the R33, they might have steel wheels, then there is a place in adelaide that can widen steel wheels, but it is pricey, i would just keep an eye out for wider wheels.

I would say find someone with an old wheel blanacing machine in the trader or local paper that they are selling really cheap, and mount the rim on that, then sand the bit you want polished with some different grades from about 120 working your way down to about 400, then by the time you get to the softest grade you may not need to polish it, cos most of the time just the really soft grade paper gives alloy a polished look. Give it a go.

The alignment machine I use at work runs on lazers, and yes if the front bar is too low, the lazers cannot reach the other heads, the front bar can get in the way, this is a normal problem, we normally ask people to remove the front bar for us to align it in situations like that, not too many places in Adelaide that I know of that can align a car with a really low front bar.

Try to rotate your tyres left to right and make sure the pressures are correct and if your car still veers, then you know that it is a tyre problem, but if it doesnt, then chances are your alignment might need a tweek.

If you are looking for the allen key to take them off, i would try somewhere like Speedy, but if you have the tool to get them off, but are having troubles loosening them, I would put a wheel brace on them and use a rubber mallet to shock them loose, else 9 times out of 10 you will snap a stud.

What did you pay for them? interested to know, and where you get them from?

Funny things cars, and when you read wheel alignment specs they never seem to make sence how one day they are one reading and another day they can be another reading. Every machine will be out slightly to other machines, unless they are calabrated exactly the same way by the same person every time, so from place to place the Alignment machine might be calabrated every week and the next place it might be every 6 months, No real way of saying what one will be more acurate though. But basically if you went to a different place for each alignment this may be one reason why it is different in readings. from the last alignment to the first reading on your second alignment. also if you drive the car hard or even hit pot holes in the road and stuff like that, that most of us cannot avoid, or even live in a suburb that thought it was a good idea to make there driveway entrances at a horrid 45% angle, then every time you hit a pot hole, or go up your driveway it could be altering your toe slightly. Or the first place that aligned it didnt do it right and botched up a read out. Also your bushes could be on the way out. You can choose. But yes alignment specs will change from place to place, from 1 month to the next depends on where and how you drive.

Nola, bushes can somtimes shift, even if fitted corrently, but I have found that if you know someone with an oxy, you can normally "Tack" them into place and then they will be fine till you need to replace them next time.

I've heard some good reports back on the T1R's, Give us a Post when you get them on to let us all know what you think of them.