DaFuca

I woud run about 34 - 36 psi in them, cos of the design of the castor swings on the front wheels, and the weight of the car, i would stick at least 34 but not much more than about 36 cos of the 18's cos you will feel every bump in the road.

What the hell are pineapples? and or what do they do?

Yeah that is what I thought too, but i still have very little idea of the cost of line parts and mods. But I think enough people have told me that it is possible to do with that kinda money, but how much does a low k'd series 2 or 3 R33 cost? looking for a rough price. R33 GTS-25t Series 2 or 3 pref under 80,000k

I have been recomended to go and check out SVI, I am not sure if anyone has heard of them, they are apparently in Sydney, and I would like to know if they are any good, I heard they are a pretty big business for importing skylines.. Just trying to get feed back.. would still rather get a small no named importer than someone big. but let me know what you think.

Thought I should post, I am a manager of a Family Owned Tyre Business. Down south of Adelaide in Losdale, Wall - T - Wall Tyres and Batteries. Tyres Rims Batteries (new and Reconditioned) Aluminium Polishing (wheels and what ever) Wheel Alignments. Willing to offer assistance for members of SAU. Call Dylan 08 8326 0247

i am looking at getting a Series 2 or 3 R33 GTS25t, but not for a few months, till then i am doing some research, I need to know who to use as an importer in this lovely city. (hahah sure lovely) If anyone has had any bad importers and or great importers, let me know, I am like everyone dont want to throw my money away cos of a shitty deal, so who do you guys recomend to see and who to avoide?

So your saying I need about 10,000 to be able to achieve 250 rwKw? Cos that is do able. Just needed to know a rough idea. Still not sure what way i wanna go, Anyone know the advantages behind RB30 bottom end and a RB25DET head? and no one has told me if a NEO head is worth the trouble?

well i heard a rumor that there is only 2 shipping ports in the world that big ships will not take water from, one of them is adelaide, thank god i am not from this shitty city. I just live here till i can get the cash and time to move. but while i am here waiting, wouldnt mind driving a weapon around the roads for a while. Might head back up to Alice. Nothing but open roads, and no open speed limit. haha, will let you guys know what my line will do once i get it up there. (once i get it)

Yeah Adelaide is crap for water... I know that Vic and NSW is worse off. The other day i was watering my lawn, 7:30 at night, thought lovely time to do it... I dont wanna pay a fist full of cash for a house and not have good green lawns. A cop knocked in my door about an hour later wanting to issue me with a fine for watering my lawn on a day that was not allocated to my house number. Not sure if many of you know about here in adelaide, in some suburbs we have set days of the week where we can water our lawns, normally determined by odd and even house numbers and odd and even days of the month. But anyway, I live up top of the hills at Greenwith/One Tree Hill, and 99% of my water i use is bore water for watering my lawns.. and I ended up in a full on argument with this coppa about wather or not i should use my own Bore water to water my own lawn. Then my GF came out of the house and said, up here under this council we do not have the Set days for watering the lawn.. hahaha damn cops.

The offset of a wheel is determined by the distance from the back of the wheel where the breaks bold up to. to the back bead of the rim. So if you lay the rim face down, and measure the distance from where the wheel bolts up to the back bead, then that is the offset (backspace) it will also allow you to work out if there is enough inside clearance from your break (studs) to your struts. Follow that link, should help you more.

at this point i am unsure of my budget, i am still searching for a R33 GTS25t. My mate is heading over to Jap in a couple of weeks and i will know then how much i will have to spend. But i am hoping to get an R33 GTS25t to around 250 kw's for upto $25,000

is why i suggested same width but dropping the profile down a little bit. that way it will bring the rolling diam. closer to factory. But yes 20s on any car ca some times be a struggle, only because as they step up in size, they step out in size to make the strenght of the rim the same (or in some cases similar).

Nothing against people that want to do a project car, but what has been posted that he wants to do.. that sounds a little bit stupid. I would say to look out for a good RB30 turbo block and track down a good RB25DET head, and go a little hybrid, they seem to be a little better in the commodores. I only suggested a Skyline cos that is what the engine that he was looking at already has from standard.

Finally some information that I can use.. yes that is what i was after, and no it didnt confuse me... So your saying that with my budget, I should stick with a RB25DET and just do the basic bolt on's.. Turbo, intercooler, and ECU, Exhaust.. and that should bring me close to me target of 250rwKw.. Labour doesnt mean much to me, cos i can do it all my self, but the Tuning i need someone to look at, so if anyone is in Adelaide and knows of someone in the field of Turbo Tuning that is any good. let me know. PS where is the best place to get Skyline Mods from? is there anywhere in Adelaide? or worth branching out to NSW or Vic?

Still would rather stick with the R33 GTS25t.. think a lot of people in this forum have helped me with that decision. Just need to find a good one stock one, that I can start fresh on.

yeah but on the inside of the tyre where it is rubbing, you will see rub marks on the strut, have a look if it rubbing the strut on the side or on the bottom of the strut plate? this way you can tell if your tyres are too tall or too wide.

This might be totaly wrong, but I used to Own a commodore, and I know when ever the battery got old in the thing, my fuel consuption would drop from about 500 km's to 350 km's out of a standard 60L tank, and when i saw this happening, I would replace the battery, and it would always bring the fuel consuption right again. I have talked to a few mechanics, and they said, when a car's battry is starting to get old, it will not put as much powerinto the ECU and computer, and there for is not working at its peak. So you will always seem to use more fuel cos the computer is just pumping the fuel through and not shutting down when it is ment to. Or some crap like that. All i know is it worked for the commodore, maybe someone can try it and let me know if it works with a skyline too.

Sorry you mentioned bob jane... I zoned out after that.. Yes 20 mm is a bit much for castor, but was the RAC telling you the truth. got the same problem in Adelaide with RAA car inspectors, tell ya lies and dont know what they are on about. Bob Janes here in Adelaide are prolly the worst people in the world to let near your car. I dont know what they are like anywhere else in the country, but here in Adelaide, they will tell you that your car needs half the front end rebuilt just to get the work... and here in adelaide a few of my mates own the old classic holdens and chevs, and every bob janes they have gone to, dont know how to wheel align there cars, so if you need your car to be wheel aligned to specs or to match Aust road conditions, I would honestly look for someone in a small local business, cos they have to do it right, else no one would goback to them. Just my 2 cents worth on wheel alignments from bob janes. Sorry if it seems like i am havinga cry over businesses, but i just offer my advice.

Sounds to me like the height of the tyre is too much.. Are the tyres rubbing on the edge or on the tread? I know it is in the very corner, but you should be able to see by the wear if it is from the bottom of the strut or the side of the strut. if it is from the bottom of the strut then your tyres would be too tall, I would stick with the 20's and I would see about getting some tyres in maybe a 225x30x20 same width just a little bit smaller in height, but if it is rubbing ont he side of the strut, then the height is fine, but the width is prolly too much, seeif you can look into some 215x40x20's they should be around the palce, but you will prolly be paying a bit for them. Cant give you a rough price at the moment, cos im not at work.. I will check tuesday morning and get back to you.

Know a few people that have vk- vl dunnydores and put RB25DET into them, they go like all hell, but seem to become a bore after a while, cos they are good for one thing, BURNOUTS. but at the end of the day, a dunnydore running any other engine is still only a dunnydore. Why the hell would anyone want to put a RB20 into a dunny, they rev harder, but produce no where near the same power or torque as a RB25DET... so i guess that is where my answer lays. Tell him to buy a skyline.

Now for some of you this may seem like a pretty easy question, but I would honestly like to know.. If I was serious about the performance of my R33 GTS25t, then would I stick with my RB25DET, or would it be better to step up to a DETT with a R34 NEO head? If so what advantages will I see behind doing this? Will it increase power? or what will it do?

Through Just Cars. Premium Amount Comprehensive $883 Your Available Options Rating One Protection $35 Reference No XXXXXXXXXXXX Policy Type Comprehensive Car Use Private Quote Valid To 23 Jun 2006 Rating 1 Postcode of Insured Address Date of birth of youngest driver 1981 Gender of youngest driver Male Year obtained licence 1997 Car has been purchased Yes Car is privately imported Yes Please see Policy Documents for full details of cover. Excesses These are the excesses you must contribute to each claim: Standard $400 Plus Vehicle $700 If applicable, you may also need to pay one or more of the following excesses in addition to the excesses listed above. Age Excesses Female Drivers Aged 16 - 22 $350 Female Drivers Aged 23 - 24 $250 Male Drivers Aged 16 - 22 $650 Male Drivers Aged 23 - 24 $550 Driving History of the Youngest Driver The driving history of the youngest driver for the past 3 years is: Claims and Accidents Not At Fault Thefts Nil Licence Suspensions/Cancellations & Disqualifications Nil Your Car 1996 NISSAN SKYLINE GTST HR33 TURBO F/IN 2D COUPE (IMPORT) T You advised us your car has no unrepaired damage Purchase date Jun 2006 Purchase price $17,000 Amount Covered: $25,000 Plus Third Party Property Damage up to $5 million The amount covered includes all non standard accessories and modifications noted on this policy Modifications we have agreed to cover 17" Wheels, CD/MP3 Player/System, Body Kit, Rear Spoiler Value: $5,700 Non-standard accessories we have agreed to cover You advised us there were no non-standard accessories on the car Endorsements The Following Item(S) Must Be Fitted To Your Car For Your Car To Be Covered In The Event Of Theft Or Attempted Theft: Australian Standard Immobiliser. --------------------------------- That is what I got quoted from Just Cars. Thought it wasnt too bad.

The 235 45 17 Federals in the 595 Road pattern. the RS's i can sell but they come at a mild increase in price, The RS's IMO are better in performance than the Bridgestone S02's and come at a smaller price. So anyone that is interested in the Federal Tyres, for "ROAD" OR "RACE" and in adelaide, let me know. I deal with almost every other brand and model tyre, so chase me down about them too.

Na im not after a race car that hasnt been raced.. and yes there would be cars out there that havent had the balls hammered out of them.. I just want something that has a good history, and that has low k's.... yeah and i will be sure to get it checked out, but this is totaly off topic to what i asked for. Information on how to get a R33 Series 2 GTS-T skyline to put out around 250 rwkw.. is it possible for under $25,000 and what do i need to do to make it possible?

Ok so what do you mean as far as parts that i will need to upgrade if i was something to be "Reliable" at 250 kw