RB30 Ceffy

Hey guys. I just finished tossing in a new R33 26 into a 32 GTR my brother blew up a year ago. Got everything in okay and all hooked up. Ive got plenty of fuel to the rail but the injectors wont fire. The engine that was in the car before blew up from a lean hit and smashed all the rings. I figured it was from a bad shot of fuel or lack of fuel and it was summer time too. I didnt figure that was a problem with this engine conversion and maby not. Maby im missing something simple but everything is hooked up like it should be. ANY help or a point in another direction is helpfull. Thanks guys!!!

Thanks guys!! That picture above makes lots of sence. I figured it could have been something like that but since I pulled the carrier I am using out of a Z32 that had a twin plate in it I thaught it would be good and also from the fly wheel to the diaframs on the pressure plate were both 3" inches on the stock GTR unit and the OS unit so figured it would be okay. Now since I only just needed a little bit more play in this system I just took out the thick washer under the pin ball and used a thinner one to give me a little extra give in the pivot and it did the trick just fine!! Clutch feels good now!!!! Thanks for your fast responces!!

ive done too many of these now. I just matched up the outers and right inner with a univerial boot kit pretty easly but the left inner was a bit hard to find in Canada so I just use a S13 rear boot for the left inner. It looks funny and is a bit longer but works just fine

okay I tryed the new pin ball, No dice. It seems that it would work but now the fork doesnt even rest on the pin ball. It now rests on the housing itself. The pin ball needs to be that size so I am now stumped

I just bolted in a os twin plate in a 32 GTR and when I was bolting the slave on the trans I noticed that the clutch fork was stiff in the housing. Do I need to use a shorter pin ball with this set up????? I can only bolt one bolt in the slave. If I forced the other one in the hole the car would drive with the clutch slightly depressed and I dont want to do that. Just seems like this shorter pin ball will work. Anyone ran into this problem before???

ive herd both ways one had more brod voltage than the other. Tryin to figure fact from fiction for a freing considering both of these. What sort of power can be expected at max so I can give him a good example! Thanks in advance guys. Sry if its been posted. I did search and came up with nothing

Not exactly sure of what your talking about. Not sure on the sway links. A Brazilian friend smashed his Silvia and striped it and I noticed he left the links cuz I was wrecking the car for him so it was a freebee. I was going to make some with QA1 parts but still not sure if its worth it. Prob best to just fork out the coin and get some good sways I guess I’m not a fan of the FNO1RC's at all. They were cheap as chips and had good rubber and they fit better than a standard wheel. I also needed something in 5 lug and this option came to me. Id like to change to something else but for this year I just want to have fun and race it so rims are going to be swapped very often for battle unit rims. As for the RB30's, I got a friend in ausi that sent a bunch to a business partner in Japan and I met him there and we built one together. He set me up with another pallet of them for Canada. Not big sellers here tho.Canadians are pussies!!!! They rather build RB24's for twice the money so I got to show people what they are missing out on. In canada we still have a 15 year rule so its easy as pie to get them in. Transport canada is changing this im thinking within the next 6 months or so. They are not even giving us a chance for compliances so this is why im getting the cars I want before it gets harder and more expensive to get them in.

Well I they are both 1990's. The green one I have owned for a year and a half and havnt had the chance to beat up on it yet. I was going to finish it this past month but I found another one on Yahoo I just couldnt pass up so I might sell the first one or keep it as a spare incase I crash the brown one into the wall drifting Ceffy number 1. Some of the parts are sitting in the trunk waiting for me to throw on. Still needs tune very badly!!!! Mod's -RB30DET w/R33 RB25 N/A cyl head. STD cams at this moment -RB25 trans -GTR PP w/metal clutch 3 puck. Might use a OS twin plate late. -R33 Clutch master cyl -R32 brake maser cyl -GT35R -RX7 550's injectors -Greddy oil cooler -custom relocation kit/lines and thermostat -Series 2 NEO6 coil's conversion -HKS 44mm gate -custom exhaust and intercooler set-up -Q45 MAF -Custom eprom tune. Waiting for f-con V pro -5 lug conversion F:GTR R:R33 GTS25T -auto to 5 speed conversion -floor to hand brake conversion -S13 subframe. -All Hicas gone!!! -Zeal super function coilovers 8k 10k for now. Some pre load. -TC rods -steering spacer -alum sub frame spacers -FNOR1 F:17"X10" R: 17"X8" Got some P1 17"X9" 215 for front for the drifto. -Front sway pillow joints, adj. -Recaro solid bucket -Spin knob -Blitz oil press -Blitz water temp -280km Nismo speedo -R32 clutch and brake peddles -momo wheel w/spacer -Nismo shift knob -Quick shift shifter Plans for the next few months: Have most the parts, just have to get it done. -GTR shimmed diff/axles convesion -AP racing calipars/rotors up front -get tune with 450whp. Limited from injectors. I will see how I like it then will prob upgrade to larger set -Sway bars -Cusco RUCA's -Tie rod spacers, Jic tie rods -Hicas rack -finish welding -Cusom strut bars and chassies bracing -Lighten this bitch up Ceffy number 2: Loading the container this month and should be burning rubber in another 6 weeks or so Got a guy close to me that really knows his v-pros so I should have this running like a new luxus. Mod's: -R33 RB26DETT -HKS GT-SS Turbo’s -R33 GTR N1 oil pump -HKS F-con V pro -No AFM -HKS boost controller 1.1 Low 1.4 high -GTR FMIC w/custom alum piping -Trust 2 layer alum radiator -Trust electric fan X2 -Trust 15 layer oil cooler w/filter relocation -Aftermarket exhaust. -Aftermarket down pipe -Aftermarket air filters -GTR fuel pump -OS cross-mission 1st-3rd gear -Nismo carbon clutch R33 -Nismo light flywheel -“Bolltech??” 2-way LSD. Not sure of exact brand. Confusion in translation -Autometer oil temp, water temp, boost, oil pressure and tachometer -Greddy electric fan controller -Bride Brix driver seat -Shift knob -Nardi steering wheel -CD player and speakers or some sort -Tire Advan Neova. F: 235/40/R17 R: 245/40/R17 -Cusco comp Zero. 5 way adj Coilovers -Front T/C rods -Cusco rear RUCA’s -Hicas canceled -R33 GTR Brembo brakes, front and rear w/5 lug conversion -Cusco front strut bar -Full aero body -Dark Brown purl

I asked this same question a while ago. I got this. Didnt help me too much tho. Would like to see a better write up on step by step wireing info. It would be more helpfull!! http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/lo...hp/t119865.html

looking for the Latency for the RX7 555's so I can get this GTR running right Thanks!!!

HAHA I cant believe you guys The trans is out of the car. I ment tie a seat belt around the trans and just shake it upside down:P But ya my ideas were pretty much the same as yours with the magnet and bent tool. I just wanted to know if the box could come apart easly but replacing seals would suck so I just keep fishing and hopefully I kets myself a nice screw.

used a shifter from this GTR for another car that needed it and then I was pulling out the sc player and a screw fell down the damn shifter. Anyways is the best wa for me to get it out to just get it on the fork lift and shake it and hope it falls out or can I pull the box apart easly. Im not too fimilar to takeing these apart.

maby you have a small slit in your pipeing and only opens up a little when on high boost and then you just have a simple boost leak. Ive had this problem before on a 32 GTR and simply replacing an old cippler and cleaning the dust off the rest fixed the problem fine.

I live in Canada. No VL here . A part number would be great. I can get parts from Japan in about a week to Canada sooo a JP part would be best thanks man.

I pretty much need a speedo with this gear on it. It is longer and larger in diamiter. Im sure you guys know what your looking at better than me. Im going to go cheak some other RB boxes to see if I can match something up but im running out of ideas??? HAH Thanks guys.

****kk dont worri about the different user name its still me. Just had a mess up***** Alright now I took the speedo out my GTR box and placed it by my RB25 speedo sending unit and its a lil short. I thaught to just throw the GTR speedo in the trans anyhow tpo see if she worked but I spin th wheels in the air and the speedo soesnt spin??? Sooo Im thinking I got the wrong speedo. What shall I do???

ohh sry guys slipped my mind to tell ya. RB25DE series 1

Hey mod's. When I was in Japan I tried to log in with this account and for some reason I cant remember why but it wouldn’t work so I had to make another account with another e-mail I use. I use this username: RB30 Ceffy The other user name I made was: Allen Petersen If you need to confirm anything just shoot me a message. Sorry for the mess-up!!!! I got it written down what my info is so I wont make this mistake again.

Hey guys. After almost a year I finally got my car in the contry I live in. Anyhow I slapped the RB30 in when I was in Japan and now that Ive got it back home I want to throw my GT3582R that Ive had sitting in my room. Just wondering what you guys used for valve springs. Ive herd of people using the RB26 springs, is this okay??? Sounds like the 26 springs will be enough but maby I am wrong. I have a used set of 26 spring sitting in the shop but wondering what your guys opinion on what spring to run or what you guys have run succesfully. Let me know what you think. Thanks muchly!!!

Ya your equation is much different than mine. I’m also not sure how you guys measure the quality of your gas or I just can’t remember right now anyway. We measure our gas in octane "oct" the gas we have at the pump is normally 87oct for regular, 89oct for middle grade and 91oct for high performance but its still really crap. If we run a mixture of VP race gas and 91 it really makes out RB's run much better and smoother in Canada but that’s more toward the 98-102oct gas depending on mixture and is very expensive as we already pay over $1.07 for our 91oct. Not sure on your guy’s fuel prices. I also plan to keep combustion chambers factory unless it is a must. Let me know if you guys think that’s a good idea for what I am doing.

Hi all! I am building a few engines at the moment in Canada. I've spoke to a good friend in aus and a good friend in Canada who both build good engines and from what they both have said had got me a little mixed up on what compression to run. I am building these engines for use in Canada and the best gas that we have access to is only 91 OCT. I want to build street RB26's to be able too run 450hp on 91 oct gas on reasonable timing with about 12 psi daily driving and 15-20 psi racing. Now a friend in aus said to me for every 14.5 psi you have on a engine you go up 3 compression ratio's. Does this make sense? I was just thinking with a 8.5:1 compression on a RB26 with est 18 deg timing and over 15 psi I would get detonation. I’ve had a friend who built RB's with as little as 7.2:1 compression built for our shit gas but I have never herd these engines run so wouldn’t know if that would be any good for driving everyday. Anyhow I’ve searched on this forum already about what I want to do and have had no luck through have read and learned lots more on other things so I know you guys are pretty smart. This is what these engines have already: -R32 RB26's -JUN oil sleeve -34 N1 Pump -std water pump -refreshed cyl head/std cam's -1.2 head gasket -oil restrictor -86.5mm over bore -ARP head studs -ARP rod bolts They are pretty standard but what I want to do is advertise these to be able to slap on a bigger turbo(s) injectors and eprom and have plenty of power that will be reliable. These engines will be street used everyday and weekend drag, grip, and drift. One RB26 is in a GTS-T so it will see drift more than the other so I might add an oil pan baffle. Other than that they’re pretty much the same. If I need anything else let me know as well or if I am doing something unnecessary let me know. p.s. I had had another thread about me looking for factory Nissan clearances or a service manual but have had no luck finding it anywhere. Some of you said you’ve seen it so if you could please point me in the right direction that would be good! I also am looking for RB26 bearings, Main and rod. We can get ACL here in Canada though no part numbers are listed in out books for any RB so a part number would be great. I am not grinding the crank as they are all in good shape so just std size I would think. Or even if a Nissan bearing set if that would do. Pretty much just a part number for what would be best for me. Thank's guy's a million!!!!!

I am building a few RB26's, everything is fine and dandy but since I am from Canada no machinist here has any factory information about the RB engines. Sooooo I need to know all factory clearances and torque settings and patterns for the RB26. Pretty much all the information my machinist will need will be very helpful! I am also fixing the oil drive since these are all early R32 engines and I’ve herd of you guys welding the snout then c and c afterwards. Anyway my machinist doesn’t think welding should be done unless it has to be so I was wondering if you guys have pressed on those JUN collars for the oil drive. I need full oil drive on these cranks because the people I sell these cars to are stupid and want it. I normally just over fuel the car and ditch the rev limit but these guys just want the drive to be good. Any who thanks for your help, Sorry if this is the wrong place to post. Mod can move it where needed.