RB30 Ceffy

yeah, very interested in your pix as well. Always wanted to do this in my sil vert too. The A31 dash board is pretty ugly anyways. Even a R32 skyline dash would be an upgrade.

Im in the middle of a Cefiro build. Its a full on track car. I am trying to get it under 2500lbs but this is going to be a little difficult. Going to have to chop out the doors, trunk, trash the glass and build some lexan windows along with some lightweight aftermarket parts. Crossing my fingers!!! I've done a full cage for the drifting series we have here in canada and went with 1.50 0.095 but I am opening up to grip racing as well and need it under 2500lbs to compete in the SCCA. Its fully built RB26 with the GTSS turbo kit, d-jetro, OS 1-3 gears, GTR subframe, painless race harness (Only using the factory engine harness which is modified) NO other factory wiring at all! Got 33 brembos with full suspension. Id love to try these out too to help my geo: http://www.driftworks.com/shop/suspension/nissan-suspension/driftworks-geomaster-hubs.html I should be around the 400-450WHP so it should be a pretty competitive car once set up. Hopefully running here in the next 2-3 months intime for a quick practice. Going to take this yrs season to race in several series and some hill climb time attack. Try and build a portfolio before next year to try and get a little support for gas and tires, but we will see how she goes and go from there. here's the car: in pieces right now. Engine is half built, car is half built. Got everything to get it done, just need to bust ass!

yeah, Im looking into it. Bit busy with some things but that was my next step. Wasnt sure if its really worth an entire set of gears for the price you can get an aftermarket pump for. But once I have an idea I can post what I come up with in here. I've had the idea of using something like the REIMAX gear set with a 2J style drive. Had another member on here just PM me on the same subject. Im just not sure when i'll get around to it. My friend is a CNC drafter and I have several friends who run the machine. I just dont have any capital at the moment to buy the gears for a copy and i am no engineer to configure a new pump on my own. If anyone has a draft made up that would work or could have the drive modified i would be more than happy to help set things up.

agree^ I have heard similar stories on the cometic units from friends. I have never used them. Always used tomei or oem. Never had any issues even when re using the tomei gasket several times. Quick spray of permetex and back in she goes

If I were you i would try to pick up a RB26 harness used. Your just going to have a headache using the 20 harness. lots of the sensors on the harness are in different locations and would require extending some and some sensors may use different plug ends on them. Im not sure about Aus, but a second hand RB26 harness goes for around $150 CAD here in Canada. I know of a couple for sale right now in fact. If in the end you decide to purchase one and have troubles finding one you can pm me and I can help track one down for you. Shipping could be pricey tho Something to keep in mind.

Woah, that sounds ridicules. poor guy! I think I remember hearing about that on these forums a year or so ago. I dont visit too often, but the Canadian forums are boring to read these days so I wanted to read over some of the good threads here. Tho, not sure how he can loose several thousand dollars??? Unless he was in a production run of them. Cant see loosing that much on making one or two sets and then trying them out to make sure they work. Do you know if he started with one gear set and get a chance to test the design? Im not even sure I'll get around to it. i think after doing all the stuff to help out the RB like collars, restrictors, drains, vents, sumps ect Its more less go dry set up now. Id only do these gears if I could get them for less than $400-$550 CAD for the new gears and drive once you get into production. Sounds like a great idea tho.

I suppose you could use the 20 harness, but it would require lots of hacking and modification. I have never done it. Every time I use a RB26 cyl head, no matter what engine or what car, I always use the RB26 harness. If you have a 26 harness, use it. Its rather easy to use make work in a GTS-T. Just need to hardwire in your injector resistor pack, most the rest plugs right in.

I read the entire oil thread. Seems to be a 50/50 on people who think that it is a drain or a vent. Regardless, if not doing the rear drain then the sump should still vent via the separator/catch tank. With all the heated debate, I am just going to install two -10an fittings on each side of the sump above oil level. Then, conduct my own tests and use what I believe works better. Find out if its draining under load or helping the engine breath better. That way I have a drain/vent for the head and the primary catch tank and conclude what side is more appropriate once I find out if its a drain or not.

just need to bump this to read it without highlighted yellow text :S Been a couple yrs since I visited this thread.

This is interesting! I had them set up on the driver side on my other builds but figured on my current build to try on the pass side or both pass side driver side thinking that the cranks rotation would help the drain flow as the crank spins clock wise if looking at the front of the engine. Did you notice this from a before and after or was there other things to consider with your build when you did your drain? Thinking if it were on the driver side of the sump the rotation of the crank would not help the drain drain the oil into the sump. kind of a total reverse to what your saying.

That may be my next step. Your totally right on tho! What happened to the guy that was designing the splined gears? Machine work in Canada is relatively cheap. I got a few guys I use and its very reasonable. I'd like to see what this other guy ended up with as a design. Did he make new gears completely or just the inner gear and drive for the crank? I think there has to be a cheap solution for everyone. Or we could all go dry and call it a day. none of this inbetween stuff ($1500 for same design pump)

Its been mentioned before so many times. But the clearance on the drive and pump is a problem in my opinion. If you take a N1 pump gear and slide it over a R34 crank ir jun collar, there is .006" clearance each side. .012 total! It rattles like crazy when limiter is being hit. As mentioned just above. when limiter is reached the crank has to slow down before fuel is added to complete the combustion cycle. A loose crank/collar to pump is just smashing in there when its on the limiter. Every N1 pump or most pumps that have failed, crack right at the flat corner and then the rest is history. Now i know im not the only person that figured this out. I have made new collars with .001" clearance each flat for a total of .002". Slips right on no problem but it doesnt have that loose fit like all the nissan cranks and Jun collars out there. i've gone through about 20 of them now with N1 pumps selling them to friends and stuff and not one problem yet. Just look at this picture. Every crank you pull out looks like this. Its just retarded! the drive only has 3/16" contact. Crazy! Ive seen almost every brand of pump brake. Looked at all the pictures people post up after and I always see the crank look like that. Collar I made up. Just gotta flont the piece, lol. Im not saying there isn't a design flaw, but there is this one issue that is easily taken care of.

X2

I agree. I think the clearances tho is a good place to start and does drastically reduce the chances of failure. As we can see in the picture with the big crack on the flat. I am happy to see a tooth design built. Good idea! But how is this for smashing the limiter? This any good for the drifters? or is there a big of a lag when that hits? Exactly.

sorry for the triple post. I just went to the garage to take that pic of the looseness of the N1 pump on the jun collar. I couldnt get a picture of it as the pump cant go on back-words so I cant take a picture and I couldnt unbolt the N1 pump to throw the drive on because one of the screws was on so hard I couldn't get it off. Anyways, when I throw the N1 pump on I can feel the looseness! Very obvious! But since I couldnt get a picture of it I pulled apart a 26 pump to throw the drive on the crank fitted with the jun collar. Feels just as loose as the N1 did so i grabbed a clearance tool and sure enough it was at .012!!!!!! OMG. Way too much! haha. So that is .006 tho of an inch when it should be at .001 tho of an inch. I can post a pic later if you guys want the proof of the tool slipped inside on one of the flats between the oil pump and jun collar. Now, since the N1 pump and the std 26 pump have the same clearance on the pump I would say the collar is at fault. I dont have a std R33 crank to see if the std drive is the same size as the jun collars but from this and in my opinion the jun collars are no good no matter what unless the jun pump has a snug fit which it should being the same company. Who makes a drive that fits the N1 pump PROPERLY? I would like to buy one or two.

Also, couldn't there be a drive built to suit the entire pump? Looks like there is still a few mm in length the drives could use to fill the whole pump. Im sure that could always help unless the front seal on the pump interfere with that somehow???

Fair enough. Your collar looks to fit right. What I was referring to was much more of a clearance issue on the flats. I have a crank in my garage fitted with a jun collar and I have a new N1 pump kicking around. In the next day I will see if it is possible to take a picture if I just throw the pump on back-words over the crank. I think you guys need to see how ridicules and obvious the problem is. That being said, the pump that I smashed with a 33 crank had obvious proof just like the picture you supplied us with. on each corner of the flats has wear markings. If the drive and pump had proper clearance there would be no smashing going on and the wear marking we all see on these smashed pumps would show minimal wear or none at all. It may be so that Nissan could have changed the contractors to build these pumps? In any mass production there is no guarantee unless the drives/or cranks are built to suit the pumps in the same house. I think its just a big simple mistake that nissan made. Maybe the old N1 pumps fit the drives better and the new ones that are now built in new shops by different contractors have the flats on the pump machined too deep. I would like to hear what some of you engine builders have to say about this. I know you must know about it but keeping the secret to yourselves??? HAHA The one statistic I would really like to know is for all the N1 pump failures how many of those had loose fitting collar to pump and how many look tight like the one pictures just above here. I believe the answer would show some of you guys that the pumps are not all that bad. But who knows right??? lol

I really like to read these threads! One thing that someone brought up a while ago was the clearance on the OD on the crank drive and the ID on the pump drive. What anyone can do and realize such a simple problem that doesn't get brought up very often is that the milling on the flats of the JUN collar in relationship to the N1 pump drive. That problem is that I can stick a 20ga wire between the flats. Call me crazy but the problem seems to lie on the drive to pump clearance. I took a jun collar and a n1 pump and the drive rattles inside the pump like a mad woman. I believe that the smashing of rev limiters more so the harsher ones like the BeeR and the PFC is enough rattling force to smash the pump after some time. Some are lucky and last forever and some that smash quickly. In my experiences: Ive smashed a regular pump once in the past on one of my own engines. It was a factory crank with a full drive. "Was from 94 v-spec GTR". I am not sure if the factory drive on that specific crank has the same clearance issues as the Jun collar but my guess is that it does. Also just a hunch that the CA18 and SR20's do not have this clearance issue on the flats. I have also seen my friends N1 pump smash on it's 4th pull on the dyno after a fresh build. I dont trust the engine builder of that specific engine so I cant say much but from what I gathered up was a result of hitting limiter at 8400rpm on a pfc and a heap of bad luck. Again, loose as a goose drive in a N1 pump. It was just the flats on the jun collar that do not have the proper clearance to the N1 pump. Who makes a collar that has the proper clearance cuz I will either buy one from whoever or make my own? Its not rocket science. I dont have any problems with the N1 pump at all. I believe that with a proper crank drive they should do what they were engineered to do. I have built a few RB26's now equipped with N1 pumps and factory R33 cranks and none of them have smashed yet and I did use one for drifting and it did see limiter action often with a factory rom. I still think it is a gamble without a proper drive to pump clearance of .001 thou. Just my opinion from what I have seen. Let me know what you guys think. Also, I think why we see so many stories of N1 failures is because of the issue on the flats of the jun collars and for the simple reason that everyone can afford an N1 pump and therefor having more stories. Not many people have the coin to buy fancy pumps so not many people have the chance to post horror stories. Plus, in canada, the people here that buy fancy pumps are people that dont drive their cars to hard and that have lots of money to spend on their cars. The people that do drive their cars hard are the drifters and they can only afford the N1 pumps as they spend their money on tires. I could only gather that lil bit of info up from what I read up on the canadian forums but it could conclude why we hear N1 bashing and not so much of it with the other pumps. hehe

looks amazing! Good job. Only one small detail I noticed that could use a change. I notice your hot pipe to the turbo looks like its an inch or so too long. Other than that she is a butte.

Car is A31 Cefiro w/HICAS. I've done a delete on one of these same racks before and I think all we did was cap all 4 lines by cutting off the fittings and welding the hole on the fitting. I think we had power steering fluid sweating all season and didnt know if it was from us capping the lines incorrectly. Didnt know if that part of the rack lubricates the top gear or if the lines needed to be looped in series to keep the flow or whatever. If any of you guys have done this before let me know what you came up with. Rather do it the right way so I dont have to mess with it after the engine is back in. Here is the pic. You can see the 4 lines that need to be done with. the bottom two are from the HICAS solenoid and the top two are the feed and return to the rear HICAS rack. Just to clear that up.

Got a friends trans in my garage. It was a RB20 with the 1-3 os gear set inside. He snapped the output shaft inside the yoke on the driveshaft. The trans is still good other than this. Anyways. I've never pulled these things apart before in this way and was wondering if its as simple as pulling it apart and swaping over another output shaft from a busted 20 trans kicking around? Also is this a job a guy could do on his own or are there any special tools and crush rings needed, anything like that? Thanks for the help!!

Ya, thats an idea I've thought of. We were using a 30 weight and I went to a 40 for last race and it did'nt make the problem any better. I'll give the 60 weight a go next practice to see what goes on. I've also been getting a bit of oil in the catch can. It varies, sometimes I will get nothing and then sometimes I will get 1-2 ounces with a few hard laps. Thats why I was opting for the heavier oil to see if this changes as leak and compression are good. So it does seem like the oil is a bit thin and too much up top in the head. This engine also has RB26 valve covers on the 25 head. The baffles in the rear look good so it does'nt seem to be part of any problems but maybe you guys might have something else to say about that. Any more ideas very welcome

Hey everyone. Got a bit of a problem hope you guys have some insight and help me with an idea. The car is a Cefiro. RB25 with a bunch or interesting things done to it. RB26 crank, rods 87.5 bore, 10:1 comp, welsh removed on factory RB25 head with some sort of 25 cam shaft combo. I know they are HKS but not sure of spec. Have an adj ex cam gear and the VVT disabled. GReddy TDO6 25g 16cm 1bar on C16 gas. Now problem is just a sound for now. Car is set up for drifting. We know the turbo is gay for this so dont make fun of our lag monster. After we do 2-3 hard laps I get a tick tick come from the top end. Its hard to pin point the location but sounds like a lifter or even some sort of exhaust leak but its not. After I cool the oil down to 60deg and shut off the car and turn back on a couple times the tick goes away and we go for another lap. The tick didnt bother me too much as we are going to be changing our set up SOON but since money got low and I need to use this engine for 2 more rounds of our series and I just want to see if any of you guys have any quick fix ideas to this problem. or just a general idea if you've run into something like this before. Now the guys that built the engine a year ago are not reliable and I dont even trust anything they say or did to the engine so I can not tell you if there was a oil restricter was installed. They did say the head was serviced but thats about all I can tell you. My oil/water temps are fine, tune is healthy.

500hp in rwd car is all good to me. You need to find out if thats what you want. Wheels spinning most the time sidways its all fun to me but if you dont like that kind of thing then get the GTR. I built a 32 GTS-T with a 26 this year for drifting. Only I didnt have as much power as your wanting. I had approx 340WHP and I could have enjoyed the 500 mark much much more. So if you dont like to drift all over keep the power a bit lower to save the bank or get the GTR and have fun Mine was just a set of high flowed factory turbos with forged pistons, drive and N1 pump. Very reliable, good millage and is compeditave enough to take to the drift events and not too crazy for the streets at all. But the sound you get is amazing. For anyone who knows the 26 the sound is much different from the 25 or 20 built. Sooo sexy. This build is much cheaper and still make you happy. Then later on if you wanted more smoke off your tires you can just upgrade the turbos and cams to get to your goal.

this was after much before his cage was built. Thanks. More photos next season of more canuks. Should be rockin a bad ass A31