RB30 Ceffy

Hey guys. Ive been out of the shop for a bit and never got the chance to finish this project. I got the S2 RB25DET running in my ceffy and she starts up fine and everything is high and dry but when I take it for a drive she feels laggy and gutless. About a year or 2 back I built a NEO6 Silvia with GT2535 and mani and TB ect and never wired in the Q45 TPS at first and it drove the exact same as this RB25, once I wired in the throttle body she haulled ass!! My engine in the ceffy feels exactly like that Silvia did with the TPS not hooked up. Is like the computor wont let it do what it should. Since the engine is in my ceffy I dont have a port to do a diagnostic check so I was wondering if you guys have any tips before I saulder a port in to help me save some time. I figured the car is in a limp mode so to speak and couldnt be too many problems as you give the ecu 12V and VROOM, pretty much. Anyways. Any help would be great. P.S. Vaccume lines, I/C pipes maf are all hooked up correctly and not leaking so its not justone of those simple noobe things to quick fix Thanks in advance!

Looking for any diagrams for the A31. ANYTHING and EVERYTHING. Looking to do some funky conversions in the future and if I can find this info for car loom and dash loom I can keep these conversions simple and clean. ANYTHING will help guys. Thanks in Advance.

Im pretty sure the ignitor is built into the coilpack itself for S2. Ive got the engine running on a RB25DE ecu right now and that has S1 coils and no VVT and it still drives and runs. Its just slow, doesnt know its boosted or vvt. Ive also herd of people converting S2 coils on theyre S1 engines and not changing the ECU. I just used it so I could make sure my wireing was correct. Also I thought the only difference between the RB20 MAF to the RB25 one is an extra ground in the RB20. They have the same maps im pretty sure aswell as S1-S2. If im wrong I would like to know but other than those two things is there any other way a S1 ECU would do my S2 engine any harm? Thanks for the fast reply guys

well I cant really see any differences in the S1 and S2 engine other than the coils. I figure an S1 ecu will work fine for a S2 engine. RB25DET. Anyone know if this should be cool?? Thanks

kk I got this number off another ECU that has RB25 writen on it from my exporter. I type it in FAST and it didnt like the M so I replaces it with a 0 and said number was not found. Anyone know this number??? 2371M-83T05 I also found out that the ECU I took the picture of is from either a 96.6 A31/91.10 C33 RB25D Well I guess I know that a RB25DET will run with the non turbo ECU and actually drives. Its slow as hell tho. Just took it down my street and was like ummm...... this isnt right HAHA I also got these and figured I would post incase of a search engine. 23710-21U00 RB25DET S1 Manual 1993-08 to 1993-09 23710-21U01 RB25DET S1 Manual 1993-09 to 1994-04 23710-21U02 RB25DET S1 Manual 1994-04 to 1994-07 23710-21U03 RB25DET S1 Manual 1994-07 to 1995-01 23710-21U10 RB25DET S1 Auto 1993-08 to 1993-09 23710-21U11 RB25DET S1 Auto 1993-09 to 1994-04 23710-21U12 RB25DET S1 Auto 1994-04 to 1994-07 23710-21U13 RB25DET S1 Auto 1994-07 to 1995-01 23710-21U60 RB25DET S1 Manual 1995-01 to 1995-08 23710-21U61 RB25DET S1 Manual 1995-08 to 1996-01 23710-21U70 RB25DET S1 Auto 1995-01 to 1995-08 23710-21U71 RB25DET S1 Auto 1995-08 to 1996-01 23710-13U00 RB25DET S2 Manual 1996-01 to 1996-06 23710-13U01 RB25DET S2 Manual 1996-06 on 23710-13U10 RB25DET S2 Auto 1996-01 on

I just did a S2 RB25DET conversion in my Cefiro and I got about 20 ECU's that I had to sort through to find one that made my car run. I found one that looked like my writing that said RB25 on it but its been a year since I packed that container so I am trying to narrow it down to what ECU I need for this engine. If this ecu is not for a 25 turbo it would be nice to know what it is for and what number might be on the ECU that I need. Thanks in advance :) The engine that I swapped in was from a 96 S2 33 Skyline but I did lots of 25's out of Stagia automatic's last year so if this is for that I should be good too so this number might not be something you would recognize. Also this ecu does run my car but I havnt took it out the shop to drive it yet. I just know it starts up HAHA 2371M-5L000 edit: I am looking for this number too now. 2371M-83T05 Anyone know this number?? I put it into nissan FAST and it wouldnt accept the number.

okay. I just got my car running 30 min's ago. On the S2 the injector wire is tapped into the black/red wire on the 32 plug in the eng bay so I just had to plum that one wire to the car and she started up. Once I got it running I did my tacho and temp gauge and then wired up my wippers. Im thinking tomarow I should have time to do a write up with colors and locations of wires and pictures to show how I did it. I made everything with new plugs so if I wanted to drop a std engine and loom back in it will just un plug and plug in. Stay tunned. Cheers,

I am doing this swap to at the moment. Im a bit stuck on the wireing and also need a bit of help. Below are what I came up with this past week, they have helped me a ton but just not enough to finish the job. I think I got enough done to start the car but need better wireing information for the gauges. I should have it done shortly tho and will post better information thats more easy to understand but for now just take a look at the links below and they should help you out enough to get where I am: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...0swap&st=20 http://www.gweeds.net/carpage2/rb25diagram.jpg This link doesnt get in too much detail but it does tell you some what how to do your wipper motor. On my wiper motor I just added the 6th wire to the R33 plug and then ran 5 wires to the area where the ecu is so I can pin them to the R32/A31 Car harness. The 6th wire is just a ground and is grounded in the harness: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=119865 If you guys figure anything else out that will help with this conversion post it up

Okay. I figured Id get one of my cars running good so I can sell it and I had a S2 25 kickin in the shop so decided to toss it in. Everyone that’s done the swap has said its easy as pie so I searched for hrs on this site and came to a few threads with information on RB25 conversions but some of they’re info is wrong and colors of wires are wrong and half the time you cant even understand what the hell they’re talking about because of they’re punctuation. Below is some of the info that I have put together from other members on this forum. I need to sort out the junk and get the correct info. When im done with this I will edit this page and have a step by step for the S2 engine. I will have PICTURES and actually tell you guys what the wires your cutting up are for and not just letting you know you need to cut it like the rest of the info on this forum. I can do this within a few days if I can get some help from you guys. ***I found this on another old thread from another member:*** Now for the wires.. I didn't hook up A/C as there was none. In the R32 engine bay there are 2 plugs by the passanger side headlight. You use 3 wires from one of them only. The other plug is for an Auto. The 3 wires on the R32 are (Black/Red, White/Purple, White/black) the 2 large ones, are for the power to relays etc, the White/Black is power to sensors etc. Now in the same location there is a single plug that runs from the RB25DET. From this it is only the grey wire that is spliced into the Black/White on the R32 plug. This is power for the injectors. Under the dash at the SMJ you need to run 3 good sized wires up to the 3 in the engine bay on the R32 plug. There is a Red/Black, Red and a Black/White R33---------------------------R32 Black/Red---------------->White/Purple Red------------------------>Black/Red Black/White-------------->White/Black. (has the grey injector wire also attached to it.) ************************************************ NOW WHAT I THINK: Now I cannot find a Red wire or the Black/White wire on the R33 SMJ. I found a black/red one but that’s it. This is the important part I guess. I really need to know where to hook these 2 wires in the engine bay to the SMJ. Thanks ************************************************ This is all that is needed for the car to run. Now you just need to attach water temp, fuel pump relay and tacho under the dash. On the R32 under dash loom there are two plugs. The colours are similar.. you need to use the ones on the smaller or the two. 14pin. The other has 18. R33----------------------------R32 Blue/Black ---------------->Blue/Black. Water Temp. ( you also need to use the RB25DET engine sender. (single wire) Yellow/Blue---------------->Yellow/Red. Tacho Black/Pink------------------>Black/Pink. Fuel pump. **************************************** NOW WHAT I GOT TO SAY ABOUT THIS: I found all 3 wires inside the car just fine but when I went to match these up with the 3 others on the R33 harness's SMJ I found 2 yellow/red. I was like okay… I will just see if I can find the other end's of these wires at the Coil harness for the tach signal. I did see one yellow/blue wire on the TPS Sensor but couldn’t find the other one. I DID find the other 2 wires. Sorry for the long post. Most of you guys might not even read this but any help on this will be very helpfull!!!! *****************************************

are they std bearings with the eagle rods??? What kind? Also willing to ship to Canada at buyers expense? Thanks dude.

If I cant find a AP one in the next bit Ill be on your list. I need something soon Glad you got things rolling. Cant wait to see how you do with it

PERFECT!!!! Thanks guys!

I remember looking a while back and cant seem to find the thread. There was someone alot smarter than me that was converting the RB25 power FC's to work with the RB20. Ive got a Cefiro with RB30 that needs one badly. nengun has them discontinued Any other places that sell em??? I cant source any in yahoo/upgarage sites either. Any help would be a big hand to me Thanks in advance.

you dont need aftermarket adj rear tie rods as they wont bend unless you hit a curb. Your also not needing big steering angle. The rear inners have course threads and the fronts have fine threads so you cant hybred thse pieces. The R32/Z32/S13 are all the same. The R33 or 33/34GTR ones might be a bit thicker but then you would need the outer part too that bolts to the ball joint and like I said........ They prob wont bend unless you hit something Atleast Ive never seen them bend but people in Canada are pussies and dont drive there cars hard at the track but Ive never seen them bend when I go to the drifting in Japan either. For the rear inners I use pn# 48521-35A06 I cant remember if that was a Z32 number or S13. I think it was S13 but I use them in R32 GTS-T's and R32 GTR's and Z32 and KRPS13 Hope this helps

http://www.eaglerod.com/products/Nissan/Nissan%20rods.html found it

Hey guys. Im looking for rb26 std con rod sizes: piston pin diameter: ?? piston pin external diameter: ?? rod main diameter?? clearances?? ect Or if you guys have a eagle rod number that will be great too but also looking for sizes to check for hybred applications. Ive done a search and didnt come up with what I needed. so sry, I am sure this has been posted before. Thanks in advance.

sounds like the berring carrier fell off the one side on the fork. If you can grab a 14 mm spanner and remove the slave off the trans housing you can take the rubber boot off where the fork sits inside the trans. Grab a light to peek inside if anything is loose. You should be able to tell if there is a problem maby

I always come to this forum for answers and half the time it I figure it out on my own just typing it out and reading it over . So I was stuck on the last step on bleeding the return line to the tank in the trunk but I got it done. If this is a re-post sorry. NOTE: You need Nissan ATF fluid for this application. Check step "4" first so you can have everything ready to go. Step 1: Fill tank 30mm above MAX line. "tank is located in right rear of your trunk" Step 2: Open air bleeder on oil pump. Crack open till there is no more air coming out and you get fluid dripping. "This air bleeder is located on the pump on top of the rear diff. Bleeder is on right side. Can’t miss it" Step 3: After you tighten up that bleeder you go and turn the ign on. Don’t start the car just turn the key to ign. Step 4: You need to unclip the air bleeder connector. " This is a white clip located under the dash on the right side behind your kick panel" Opposite side of your ECU" Might be a good idea to un screw your kick panel before you do any of these steps. When this connector is unplugged it puts the pump in (air bleeder mode) and the pump operates at a fixed hydro pressure to the transfer actuator" Step 5: You now need to bleed the nipple on the rear of the trans just below the tail shaft and above the hydro line attached to the rear of the trans. You want to give it 1-second blerps. You can hear the pump actuate while doing this. Do this step until there is no more air coming out the nipple. Step 6: Go back to the tank in the trunk to check the level of fluid. Fill to MAX is necessary or just above. Now to finish the bleeding process you need to go back into the car to the air bleeder connector. You want to plug it back in and then UN plug it and plug it back in. You want to repeat this process until the lower level fluid in the tank in your trunk has a 5mm max air gap between the lower and higher level fluid. I had to plug in and unplug my bleeder sensor about 20 times at least. If you want get a friend to check the rear level while you sit in the car unplugging the bleeder sensor that might be easier. I had to do this on my own If this doesn’t make any sense let me know and I can retype it for you guys I’ve done a search on this info this week and also about a year ago on this forum and never came up with anything conclusive so now we got it. This is the tank in your trunk. I didnt get any before pictures but this gives you an idea of the high and low level's of fluid and how it should look when your finished. This is the bleeder on the pump above the diff. Its on the right side of the diff. Very easy to spot: This is the bleeder on the trans. I used a clear hose so I could watch the air shoot out. This is the air bleeder connector. The fsm tells you to make a switch but it is easy to plug in and un plug many times.

OKAY I was starting to wonder why all the pins were good and I was still having a problem. The bulb I was using to check for the pulse was a 12V side marker bulb. I tossed my test light on and everything looked good so I knew it had to be bad injectors which seemed weird. So I called up a friend and he told me to jump 12V from a spare battery to the injectors to pop them and that did the trick. Car started up first crank. Ive got some injectors at the shop and going to wait a day till there done and I can use something thats been flow tested so I dont have another good car blow up on me Thanks for your guys's help Lesson learned

ohh and another thing. I was pinning the no.2 pin on the injector clip and the pins that are in the FSM are wrong. I pinned them like below. PIN no.2 injector clip: -inj 1. pin 109 -inj 2. pin 113 -inj 3. pin 111 -inj 4. pin 106 -inj 5. pin 102 -inj 6. pin 104 Anyone know why the info in the FSM is wonrg??? I know its not just this car cuz I tested another R32 GTR harness I got and it was the same And Pin no.1 on the injector clip is located on the harness thats attached to the cars harness. Its by the 2 clips by the air flow meters. Its the black one. I have no idea where they go from there if anyone knows Id like to know to further get my hands dirty

I am using the R32 engine loom. I didnt think there was any differences other than the obvious like oil pressure sending unit, A/C and that was about it. One thing that was also different from the R32 26 and the R33 was that the gas lines flow like normal but on the return line just off the factory FPR pressure reg there is another smaller one. All I know is that line in off the filter goes to the rail and then goes past the factory FPR. Unless this is different than the S13/R32's??? What is this other regulator for under the mani???? But anyways I hooked the lines up backwards a few years back and figured it out after that. I even pulled out a injector off the rail just to make sure there was pressure at the rail and there was plenty of that cuz my arm got a good splash

just did another test cuz it was in the manual I checked resistance between injector clip wire 1 to wire 1 on resistor plug and got 0ohms as said I would get in the manual. This looks to be good for all injectors. I also checked resistance on the injectors on themselves just to make sure and I got 2 ohms so this looks good aswell

No I didnt have the injectors flow tested. I was going to before install but was in a rush to get this car back on the road for some fun. Ive got a set geting checked right now but wont be ready for a day. I didnt factor that in as this problem as I ran and drove this engine while in Japan so I was just going to swap to flowed injectors later this week after I get a chance to run the oil in before a change.

ohh one other thing I guess I could have a broken wire in the harness causing me all these problems. I do have another one but would like to fix the problem than just toss one out that I can fix.

Hey thanks for that but I have already done those above steps. The pump is working good and I still get 43 PSI. When my brother blew the engine a year ago he drove the car home with blow-by shooting out the ketch can . The car still ran when the engine was blows but just barely as there was no compression. I do have spark. There is no problem with the ignition system. I have also swapped to 3 different GTR ecu's I’ve got kicking around and that didn’t change anything. I pulled this engine from a running car and did compression tests in Japan before I pulled it and shipped it to Canada. So I know the engine is good and it turns over no problems J What I have done in the past hour or 2 was read up on a service manual. Then did the fallowing: I checked my drop resistors and that is fine at .006 k ohms ea. I had two of these kicking around too and tried them all and same results and still no start as well. Then I checked the ECU pin-outs and this is where I get stumped. In the manual it says injectors 1,2,3,4,5,and 6 are pin outs 101,105,103,114,110 and 112 Now some of these pin outs are empty slots. This got me all mixed up so I kept reading and found "injector power supply" pin out109 and I did a continuity test and did find a signal from the ECU to the injector clip wire 2. I then measured for voltage from injector clip wire 1 to ground with ign on and off and got 12V with both tests. I thought while doing this I would do the same test with injector clip wire number 2 and noticed the voltage kind of kept dropping off but while cranking got about .7 volts and stay there while cranking. I threw on a light as well while cranking and it would not have any light pulse so right there I know something not right. I’m not a brain scientist to this stuff. I’m always looking to get smarter at what I am doing but this has got me a bit stumped working on it on my own. I figure there is something wrong with the ECCS relay maybe but I don’t know where this is located on a 32 GTR to even check on that…or the injector grounds from the ecu since wire 2 on the injector clip wont ground while cranking and just stays at .7 volts. These 2 things I do not know how to do or diagnose. If you guys agree with me on these 2 things can you please tell me what I can do or if by what I’m telling you you can shed some light on my problem. Thanks!!! I figure the problem could be one of two things. One beingHey thanks for that but I have already done those above steps. The pump is working good and I still get 43 PSI. When my brother blew the engine a year ago he drove the car home with blow-by shooting out the ketch can . The car still ran when the engine was blows but just barely as there was no compression. I do have spark. There is no problem with the ignition system. I have also swapped to 3 different GTR ecu's I’ve got kicking around and that didn’t change anything. I pulled this engine from a running car and did compression tests in Japan before I pulled it and shipped it to Canada. So I know the engine is good and it turns over no problems J What I have done in the past hour or 2 was read up on a service manual. Then did the fallowing: I checked my drop resistors and that is fine at .006 k ohms ea. I had two of these kicking around too and tried them all and same results and still no start as well. Then I checked the ECU pin-outs and this is where I get stumped. In the manual it says injectors 1,2,3,4,5,and 6 are pin outs 101,105,103,114,110 and 112 Now some of these pin outs are empty slots. This got me all mixed up so I kept reading and found "injector power supply" pin out109 and I did a continuity test and did find a signal from the ECU to the injector clip wire 2. I then measured for voltage from injector clip wire 1 to ground with ign on and off and got 12V with both tests. I thought while doing this I would do the same test with injector clip wire number 2 and noticed the voltage kind of kept dropping off but while cranking got about .7 volts and stay there while cranking. I threw on a light as well while cranking and it would not have any light pulse so right there I know something not right. I’m not a brain scientist to this stuff. I’m always looking to get smarter at what I am doing but this has got me a bit stumped working on it on my own. I figure there is something wrong with the ECCS relay maybe but I don’t know where this is located on a 32 GTR to even check on that…. or can maybe be the voltage supply to the injectors from the ECU or the injector grounds. These 3 things I do not know how to do or diagnose. If you guys agree with me on these 3 things can you please tell me what I can do or if by what I’m telling you you can shed some light on my problem. Thanks!!! Hey thanks for that but I have already done those above steps. The pump is working good and I still get 43 PSI. When my brother blew the engine a year ago he drove the car home with blow-by shooting out the ketch can . The car still ran when the engine was blows but just barely as there was no compression. I do have spark. There is no problem with the ignition system. I have also swapped to 3 different GTR ecu's I’ve got kicking around and that didn’t change anything. I pulled this engine from a running car and did compression tests in Japan before I pulled it and shipped it to Canada. So I know the engine is good and it turns over no problems J What I have done in the past hour or 2 was read up on a service manual. Then did the fallowing: I checked my drop resistors and that is fine at .006 k ohms ea. I had two of these kicking around too and tried them all and same results and still no start as well. Then I checked the ECU pin-outs and this is where I get stumped. In the manual it says injectors 1,2,3,4,5,and 6 are pin outs 101,105,103,114,110 and 112 Now some of these pin outs are empty slots. This got me all mixed up so I kept reading and found "injector power supply" pin out109 and I did a continuity test and did find a signal from the ECU to the injector clip wire 2. I then measured for voltage from injector clip wire 1 to ground with ign on and off and got 12V with both tests. I thought while doing this I would do the same test with injector clip wire number 2 and noticed the voltage kind of kept dropping off but while cranking got about .7 volts and stay there while cranking. I threw on a light as well while cranking and it would not have any light pulse so right there I know something not right. I’m not a brain scientist to this stuff. I’m always looking to get smarter at what I am doing but this has got me a bit stumped working on it on my own. I figure there is something wrong with the ECCS C/U power supply circut signal??? or the injector grounds. These 3 things I do not know how to do or diagnose. If you guys agree with me on these 3 things can you please tell me what I can do or if by what I’m telling you you can shed some light on my problem. Thanks!!!