RB30 Ceffy

yep, thats Chris's car and I dont think he has plans to buy another car. Im good buds with him. He did win the series tho. He is also going to the D1 driver search in cali this week. If you look close in that pic with him both his front and rear wheel are off the pavement. Pretty much everyone was getting big air off the bump tho. He got lucky with a sweet shot.

im in the moddle of moving to my home town and my buddy's got a new dyno. Once I finish up the move I will get it on and see what goes. I will prob check those knock sensors tho. They are easy enough to change out. I remember checking the resistance on them and being alright but might not have. I might even just toss in a PFC and see what knock I am getting as well. Easier than wireing in a AFC anyways Everything on the fuel side is good. Normal pressure and even tossed in a new tomei pump for shits. I dont think a GTR would enjoy a 9 deg retard. They wont run a crap if I were to do that. Knock is safe on a 18-20 deg timing on factory boost. Maybe my oct and your ron may be a different rating??? It's still not near as great the japs have for fuel, but aslong as its safe i'm happy.

only way you can use that clear cover is if you get the backing plate to bolt it too. It also wouldnt look very good in my opinion without the rb26 valve covers too. But they do look a hell of a lot better!!!!! The valve covers bolt right up. Cant anwser your question about the vct tho. I know the cams can go in but not sure about the vct wheel on the cam itself. I think they seal differently from the 25 and 26 cam shaft but I havnt dont that modification so best to call that workshop thats done it many times posted above.

Hey guy's. I havnt had it on the dyno yet. I've been very busy and now moving to a new career. Might move to Aus actually I havnt touched the car since I was tweeking with it. Last thing I wanted to do was drop in the Nissan consult and go take it for a spin to see what timing does. I am sure its geting pulled big time. Havnt had it on the 1/4 mile yet either but if I had to guess it would be about a 18 second pass haha so I save the embaresment and keep the car at home. The fuel in Canada is total crap. 92 oct is the best I have avalable, tho thats not enough to slow this puppy down. I run many many Nissan's on this crap fuel just fine. I just normally pull a deg or 2 on the GTR's to keep em safe. I have not run a compression test at all but the engine and the way it drives tells me that everything is okay. I can check but its not on the top of my things to do. I've built many RB's for many reasons and this one seems like compression and leak are fine. But never know I guess. I'll give it a go when I get the chance to. Any more ideas are very welcome. Thanks guys!

Here are just some pictures of myself drifting a skyline I built. Its a GTS-T but I swaped in a RB26. Blew it up once so did a full rebuild with high flowed turbos. Just selling the car so didnt do too much fun stuff with it. Waiting for next season to build my Ceffy. Anyways, just want to show off This is a comp from round 3 D-Sport canada drift series.

put a R33 RB26 in my dad's GTR a while ago. I haven’t driven it much but just finishing up a tune up and suspension bits that were warn out and noticed the dip stick is being forced out. I can hear it when I turn the car off, the air bleeds out. Now I got a compression test on the engine when it was still in Japan and it was awesome so I figured it was broken rings/ring lands so I did a leak down test and everything came out perfect. Any ideas? Thanks in advance!

That ecu is not the right onw. Person you baught the engine from prob had one sitting around and decided to sell it to you with you package. All RB plugs are the same. 2 high and blue plug.

the one in it is a 5 speed ecu. But I thaught why not try another one so I swaped it with one I had kicking around the shop and it ran just the same. That one was from a 5 speed as well and is now running in my friends Silvia just fine.

I would assume there wouldnt be many choices since the Neo has twin VVT. Lots of people delete the VVT and run the 26 cam's which come with many choices and much cheaper. Just an option.

My car is slow right to redline. If you loose power in your mid range and get it back I would assume you either need new plugs or the tune in your ems is a bit wonkey. I would check these first. Don’t think our problem is the same but could be related maybe :S I will be all over this thread till I get it done. I can normally figure this stuff out but I am just stuck at the moment on my car

No worries on the question. I had a feeling that somoene would post that. haha But ya, brakes are just fine. I can push the car around the yard on my own and the e-brake is working like a pimp does his ho's. Doesnt look like I am going to get dyno time this week I am running out of time and need to run to the states to import a trailer this weekend. Hopefully early next week I can have something up. The more I think about this problem the more it seems to be the R&R. I just wouldnt know why it would be doing it or why im not getting any codes for this.

Thanks for all your ideas guys. Much appreciated!!!! The engine in the car is a bone stock standard S2 RB25DET. I have a K&N air pod and a Blitz cat back exhaust on it with a test pipe. The ECU is factory, boost is at factory level too. The air filter is fine. She runs the same with the filter and without the filter. I do not have a boost controller. The waste gate actuator is working properly too. I don’t spike anything over 1 or 2 psi above standard boost levels. So boost is currently at .5-.6 bar. As for the VTC not switching properly and giving me a retarded ignition timing, this could be a problem. The pins to the VTC are fine with the ECU and I never got a code when I plug in the Nissan consult. This made me think that it was working properly. If someone could explain how the VTC works I can try to diagnose this further than I already have. As for the R&R I would hope to assume that since everything is standard I should be able to fix this problem without using an AFC. I do have one and could use it but for now I would like to keep the factory management and fix the problem if I can. I am trying to book some dyno time in the next couple days. So if everything goes well I should be able to get a dyno graph posted before the weekend. That should help me in the right direction and rule out a lot of possibilities. Thanks again for all your help, keep the ideas flowing

Im going to book a dyno run maybe later this week if I have time. I was thinking along the same line as you acsplit. It feels like it pulls timing up top. Thats what made me think I had a sensor on the fritz but Ive checked it all and nothing comes up on the consult. I also thaught that the 25 would need the factory boost control solenoid. So I tried to plug that back in and with it not in and still ran the same either way. Confuses me lots but im all out of ideas. I'll get the dyno sheet up as soon as I get er done but for now keep shooting off ideas guys. Thanks!!!!!

cat is fine.Dont need cat's where Im from But ya. I guess I will dyno it and see what I can come up with. I dont have any boost leaks. All pipeing is fine and pressure tested it just a couple weeks ago to make sure. Didnt leak to 80PSI so thats good

Car is a A31 Cefiro. Diff is a factory A31 unit. 4.11:1 diff and RB25 trans. The gearing is as normal as any other factory nissan. I have changed the factory fuel pump with a nismo unit to see if that was my problem about a month ago. Pressure is fine and all lines are normal. Changed the filter aswell. Still the same after all this. Ignition is fine, coils are mint, 180 and 1 deg signals from CAS is good. Timing is fine. I have tried to advance the timing 5 deg and still slow. I tried to boost the thing to 1 bar and still slow.

Well I guess I have to hope you can take my word on this one. I personally dont need dyno time to tell me its a slow car and down on HP. A factory rb20 can eat this alive right now Ive done over a duzon other rb25 conversions and this one just doesnt cut it unfortunatly. But I see where your coming from. Dyno sheet would help me see where the problem might be coming from. If all is bad I might have to consider this but I dont see how I should be able to fix this in the shop. Thanks!

Ya, I pulled the whole exhaust. Im also running a test pipe. Boost stays at .6 bar pretty steady up to redline. :S

Okay. I’ve had this RB25 in the car for a while. I did the conversion myself but Ive done many others with success. The car runs like a champ, doesnt miss a beat and starts fine. No codes come up on the ECU and I have plugged in the Nissan consult and everything seems fine. Timing is good, TPS is good and I have even gone thro every sensor diagnosis procedure listed in the factory Nissan service manual. Now the car sounds fine driving like a normal person but when your foot gets heavy and you want to go fast it just sounds like the exhaust is plugged up or something. I have normal power in low RPM but when I get up to 4000RPM it just feels held back. The engine sounds fine but you can tell by the exhaust note that’s is just not right. I had a RB30 in the car before and it sorta felt like it had the same problem. I didn’t think much of it though as I was swapping in the RB25 so I could sell the car but thinking it was the same problem as the previous engine I thought it could be something wrong with the cars components like intercooler, exhaust and fuel system. So I unbolted the exhaust and took it for a rip and was still slow. I checked fuel pressure, changed the filter and upgraded to a high flow pump and still slow. Then I took the intercooler out and tested it and cleaned it out with cleaner and still slow. I have took apart the entire engine harness and pretty much rebuilt it. I did find a bad ground for the o2,TPS and AAC so fixed that but still the car is still slow. I have done a basic tune up as well like plugs, packed the coils, fluids ect. I have also took the intake off the turbo to see if my turbo was still moving freely and seems just fine though one thing I haven’t checked was if the exhaust blades are still on the turbo but I still build boost like normal so didn’t think that was necessary. I have ign timing set right at 15 deg. Another thing that isn’t hooked up is the neutral switch to the ECU. Is this a problem??? I have done other rb26 conversions without neutral signals in race cars and they were fine with factory rom tuned ecu’s This problem is going to be retarded, I know. Something really simple but I am running out of ideas. If you guys can think of anything I can check over please let me know. Any tips are appreciated.

RB20/25 engines are all T3 flange turbo's. I have done a twin turbo T28's on a 25 head before and its not worth the time and money involved unless thats something specific you really want. Just spend that money on a bolt on upgrade and you will be happy.

KK Guys, I figured it out. Took the harness apart and cleaned it up and found that the front MAP sensor was pined wrong to the maf earth and not the signal. So ya. Stupid lil problem that took an entire day but its all good. The car runs and I can go eat some taco's now. Night!

1. You can use the HICAS pump but in your case you need to disable the rear pump inside of it. In all HICAS pumps ther is 2 pumps inside. The rear pump is for the hicas. If you take the rear of the pump apart you will see metal fins inside. Just grab a magnet and pull those out and bolt it back together and then you can plug off/weld the rear line and you will be fine. If you dont remove those find you will overheat the fluid and it will sweat out all over and feel stiff. 2. You can use the R32 RB26 clutch flywheel and PP and disc. They are all the same for all RB's. I even use 32 GTR disc's and PP in SR20's but the Flywheels are different is all. The Z32 non turbo is like 5 mm smaller in diamiter so go with the GTR and use the full surface on the flywheel.

Okay guys, I got a problem. I have been banging my head on the wall for a full day of diagnosis. The car is a Hybrid monster. Its a RB25 engine with RB26 rods pistons ect. Its think it's got a RB25 eng harness but since the engine was in a Cefiro some things have been changed and I cant even really confirm that it is a RB25 or a RB20 Harness that ran this thing. It ran a whole season with a RB25 Apexi PFC but since my bud wanted the D-Jetro he got a RB26 D-Jetro box to run the thing. We have now built the engine and when I start it up I don’t get the no 1 and 4 injector to fire. I’ve gone through the pinouts a million times and everything seems to be pretty good. I tossed in a RB20 ECU to see if all 6 would fire and they do. So I then tossed the RB26 PFC into another GTR to see if the injector driver was messed but when I tossed it in she ran fine. So I know the box it fine. When I toss the probe on the injector pins on the ecu "101, 105, 103, 114, 110, 112" They seem fine as the probe switches back from 12V and earth. When I toss the NOID LED light on the injector plug no 1 and 4 don’t light up as bright as the rest. They do light up but not full out like the rest. I have checked resistance between the ecu plug and the injector plug and everything seems fine with all the connections in between. All 6 injectors are good and tested just yesterday. All settings are set up properly with them too. We are not running the VVT anymore. I looked at the differences between the 20/25 ecu pinouts and the 26 pinouts and there were some differences so I figured I might be getting a voltage signal to the ECU that’s not meant to be there so I removed the pins that were blank on the 26 pinouts to make sure I wasn’t getting any voltage feedback. I am stumped. Any help is appreciated!!!!

This depends on what cyl head you are using. RB20/25 heads are made to suit 10mm head bolts/studs where as the RB26 is for 12mm. Std RB25 and 26 have the same bore of 86mm so if you have a std bore you can use a std bore gasket from either of these engines depending on what size head bolts/cyl head you are using. If you have the RB26 head and have built your RB30 bottom end with either a 86.5 or 87mm over bore which I think you do you should get the tomei 87mm gasket kit. This comes with the 1.5mm oil restrictor you should use with your N1 oil pimp and all intake gaskets. On one RB30 I built with a RB25 head I used the 25 std gasket and another with the 26 head I used a tomei 87mm. No different than building the engine to whatever head you are using unless you are running a neo or other VVT oil feed then you need a VVT specific head gasket.

Thanks man!!!! Thats just what I was looking for!!

ohhh forgot to mention. Ive been a bit busy and didnt have time to run the trans harness. So there is no speed sensor. Would this make it not run right for the 25?? Ive ran sr's with only nutral and reverse switches on the trans with no problems ever. I also only have my tacho and fuel pump hooked up. I havnt got the chance to do the rest of the gauges. But didnt think that would have ANYTHING to do with nothing. Just figured id mention this incase thats a no go.