Murray_Calavera
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Posts posted by Murray_Calavera
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32 minutes ago, Duncan said:
Of course, they aren't *that* expensive these days, you could swap in a new one and see if the issue is resolve.
The price isn't the issue, it's how hard my fuel pump is to remove now. I fabricated a custom bracket so my pump sits on the very bottom of the tank (I ran the tank down to 5L remaining to test it, works well). But it is a fkn NIGHTMARE to get the pump down into the tank now =/ words can't describe how much I hate fighting with the fuel pump/hanger now. The other issue is reliability, I'm driving down for WTA in a couple of months, I'd be less then impressed if I was half way to Sydney from Brisbane and my pump fails again =/
The other issue I had was my car battery was slowly failing, with low battery voltage my fuel pump couldn't keep up with what the reg was asking from it. I've replaced the battery and my fuel pressure is back to being perfect.
As for the low voltage situation that killed my previous battery, I've got a 150amp alternator sitting on my desk waiting to go in. Fingers crossed that will sort that issue.
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So last night pulling away from the lights, I lost power for about 1 second. Bit weird, but I kept driving... 5 minutes later the pump completely dies. When I tried to start the car, the pump won't even prime.
I left the car for about an hour, tried to start it and it all appeared fine. Pump primed, car started, got the fuel pressure I should have.... Start driving home, 5 minutes later it dies again. I'm stuck in a shit spot this time going up hill with a car right behind me, so I just let the car continue to turn over while praying to the fuel pump gods. After about 2 minutes of turning the engine over, the fuel pump came back to life and I got home (only about another 5 min away).
So I've been digging around online, it seems like the 525 fuel pumps really don't like to be run at 100% all the time. I've found quite a few examples online of people killing their Walbro 525 pumps within about a year of usage when they are run without PWM.
So, my pump is an Aeroflow 525 (AF49-1057) and I've been running it at 100% without PWM. I'm thinking the Aeroflow 525 didn't like being run at 100% and has burnt itself up.
I really am sick of dealing with fuel pump issues, my current thoughts are -
1. Use a Walbro 450 and run it without PWM. It seems like these pumps hold up pretty well to being run at 100% all the time. I only make about 350kw and can't see me making any more power any time soon so this is probably a fine option.
2. Get a Walbro 525, run it with PWM. I know doing this will annoy me as I feel like with only 350kw, its extra expense that I don't "need" and I'll be thinking the whole time while setting it up that I should have gone with option 1. I know I'll be happy with this option when its setup and running, its only the initial setup frustration and cost as an issue.
3. Get a Walbro BKS1001 brushless pump. This is the fu*k it I'm already going PWM, might as well go full retard. This option just seems better in every way, with the only downside being cost. But I don't know much about this pump so I could be wrong.
Happy to get everyone's thoughts before I go digging around in the fuel tank again.
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53 minutes ago, Butters said:
chance of detecting a pump failure
Your ECU's engine protection should pick this up easily.
Just recently my ECU alerted me to lower then usual fuel pressure caused by a failing car battery. I'd be absolutely blown away if the ECU couldn't tell that you only had half the pumps you should have lol.
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@Darrel It's so tempting to say e85 is borderline magic. It cools the intake charge, so if you're flirting with the edge of the turbos compressor map it helps dramatically cool down the hot air the turbos are pumping. It is very resistant to detonation so you can crank the timing, I don't really want to say you won't be knock limited anymore.... but you probably wont be knock limited anymore lol. I wouldn't be surprised if you made 20% more power swapping to e85 (provided you have the fuel system to support them, bigger injectors maybe bigger pump etc).
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@Darrel Can you get pump e85 where you are? If you want to max out those turbos, e85 + bigger modern injectors will be the easiest way to get you there.
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26 minutes ago, Darrel said:
500rwhp, R33 gtr, seems realistic enough doesn't it
Sounds reasonable to me.
Do you know what your injector duty cycle is? I guess everyone has their own personal limit as to how high they want to flirt with 100% duty cycle, but who knows what your tuners limit is. Maybe they like to cap it at 80%? Now your injector CC to HP conversion has a 20% hair cut on it, then through drivetrain losses, yeah 500rwhp seems ok to me.
If you plan to spend on your GTR, modern injectors and a modern ECU will go a long way!
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Sorry I meant to say, Is that $3,500 landed or is that just the sticker price in Japan?
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2 hours ago, Blakeo said:
25det Neo from Japan from ~$3500
Hang on a second, is it possible to get a 25det neo from Japan landed, or is there shipping/duty on top of that?
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Any chance you have access to a vacuum bleeder?
(something like this)
I've had great success with this bit of kit, it's never let me down and its bailed out a few mates that couldn't manually bleed a stuck air bubble out.
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Can you describe in detail how you bled the system?
There is a chance its still got air in the system somewhere, I'd want to 1000% rule that out first before swapping parts.
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Sounds like a good excuse to use one of these lol
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44 minutes ago, Chris_Guthrie said:
I hear they are good for 500hp
You'd need to weld on an external gate to achieve that number though. I can't remember seeing anyone make 500hp at the wheels with the stock manifold / internally gated turbo.
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14 minutes ago, dodo1410 said:
He didn’t provide that info to me but I think I’m on standard timing. And no we don’t have e85 on the petrol stations here but it’s widely available here from shops. I’m just planning on getting a better ecu before switching to e85
That's fair enough.
Might be time to just enjoy what you have until you sort the ecu/flex sensor situation. You can pretty much guarantee that you are knock limited and e85 is going to be the solution to more power.
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3 minutes ago, Sleepergm said:
Didn’t know I had aftermarket control arms already?
In the first photo you posted, the colour of the control arms are the signature colour for Ikeya. Same for the swaybar, signature colour for Whiteline.
5 minutes ago, Sleepergm said:What brand would u recommend if I want to play around with my camber more?
I like Hardrace, they also do hardened rubber bushes if your car is mainly a street car.
I like GKTech as well, but they use a lot of rose joints in their stuff so might not be the best choice for everyone.
8 minutes ago, Sleepergm said:also why does everyone like to remove the hicas system? Is it because most don’t work properly anymore or ppl just don’t like them. Mine is functioning as it should be right now.
The system might have been good back in its day, but it's a prehistoric system now. I suspect that most people have removed the HICAS as they want the car to do what they want to do, not what the car wants to do. From what I also understand, it isn't consistent in it's behaviour on track so it's hard to trust the car/know where its absolute limits are for track use.
Having said that, I think the HICAS eliminator kit was the first thing I installed when I bought my car. I don't personally have any experience with the HICAS system on a race track.
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10 minutes ago, Sleepergm said:
I just have coil overs in my car right now.
It looks like you've got Ikeya control arms and an aftermarket sway bar, maybe whiteline?
Or am I just going crazy? lol
14 minutes ago, Sleepergm said:I have got a nismo front strut bar to install. So that should help with body roll in front.
Unfortunately it won't, but what it will do is look really pretty. That's about all unfortunately.
15 minutes ago, Sleepergm said:the only item I feel I might need to adjust is my camber with control arms or a kit as I might want to tuck in my rims more so there is no rubbing.
How much neg camber do you currently have?
Generally lowing the car dials in quite a bit of neg camber as it is. If you do go down this path, your best bet is get adjustable arms, toe arms (or preferably a good HICAS elimination kit) and traction rods. With all 3 being adjustable, you'll be able to dial out any bump steer that is introduced by playing with the camber settings.
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6 hours ago, dodo1410 said:
My tuner said my timing is 12 on one bar of boost.
But your running 1.6 bar of boost, is it still 12 degrees of timing at 1.6 bar of boost?
Also, is there e85 fuel at the petrol stations in Dubai?
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Hmm I'm going to approach this from the other side...
What is the car doing that you don't like or what would you like the car to do that is currently isn't doing (handling wise that is)
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Checked for spark?
Checked for fuel?
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Any chance you know how much timing your running to make that power?
Did your tuner say what the limitation was when they were tuning (eg knock? boost control issues? etc)
And final thought, if you are able to easily source e85 where you live, I'd 100% recommend using it. But before you go back for the flex tune, you probably want to get some bigger injectors. On e85 I see you maxing out those 1050cc injectors real quick.
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3 hours ago, Lvonn1 said:
Hey MinKer,
Where abouts did you get that table from ?
Workshop manual.
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@MBS206 yeah it's a short run from battery in boot to pump
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1 hour ago, MBS206 said:
"the fuel pump wiring is handling 20amp"
It's 12 gauge Tefzel wire. Should be right for 20 amps.
1 hour ago, MBS206 said:unless you've measured current
I've clamped the fuel pump wiring, it measured around 20 amps. I can't remember the exact figure, I did it a while ago now, but it was around 20 amps.
Still, lots of good info in this thread now. I'll keep investigating and post back with what ends up solving the voltage problem.
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11 minutes ago, Tim32 said:
So with an aftermarket ECU it gets tuned to handle the BOV? and why doesn't an aftermarket ECU use the MAF sensor? Do they all not use the MAF? Do they just have everything programmed into the ECU?
It doesn't get tuned to handle the BOV as such, with an aftermarket ECU, you can use a MAP sensor instead of the MAF sensor. In short, the MAP sensor doesn't care about your atmo venting BOV and your mixtures will remain correct.
An aftermarket ECU could choose to use a MAF sensor, but not many people do. I haven't used a MAF sensor in something like 20 years. They are a pain in the arse to mount correctly so that the air flows through the way the sensor wants it to (in your now custom intake to suit your bigger turbo etc), they are a restriction in the intake, they have limitations in the volume of air they can accurately measure, you can't use an atmo BOV as you've discovered, etc.
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6 minutes ago, MBS206 said:
If it's an original "dumb" style alternator, you should be seeing your voltage running, in the 14s
A healthy lead acid, charged, is 12.8V, so if your engine is running, and you're seeing 12.8V, you have issues.
If you're at 13V, you have very little power going back into the battery.
I'm going to guess you probably need better wiring to the fuel pump too, as I bet you have a voltage drop on your wiring to the pump too, and it's probably seeing sub 12V
Yep, factory alternator.
Fuel pump wiring isn't bad. Not perfect, but isn't bad. The gauge of wire has no issues supplying the 20 amps, the only issue is I'm using the factory connector in the fuel pump hanger which I'd be amazed if they are rated for 20 amps... but nothing has melted so far lol. It's also got the typical relay direct power from battery etc.
Never ending fuel pump drama
in Forced Induction Performance
Posted
I've got 60L of e85 in there at the moment